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Rounded one of the hub bolts off when replacing wheel studs. Can anyone help me find the part # for a replacement bolt? I can't find it. They have a 13 mm head and are about 2" long half threaded.
Why not take the bolt to a hardware store or auto parts store and match it? Just be sure to buy a bolt with the same markings on the head for tensile strength.
Why not take the bolt to a hardware store or auto parts store and match it? Just be sure to buy a bolt with the same markings on the head for tensile strength.
Ron
That would probably work. But these car bolts tend to have different head sizes and built in washers. I'll see if I can find something close.
Rounded one of the hub bolts off when replacing wheel studs. Can anyone help me find the part # for a replacement bolt? I can't find it. They have a 13 mm head and are about 2" long half threaded.
What part did you use to replace your wheel studs? Stock GM or Aftermarket? I broke one of my front studs. The dealer wants $10.50 each for stock GM bolts that have to be ordered from a vendor and the auto parts stores don't have any listings for C7 wheel studs. I have some ARPs on order from Summit but won't know if they are the correct size until I receive them.
What part did you use to replace your wheel studs? Stock GM or Aftermarket? I broke one of my front studs. The dealer wants $10.50 each for stock GM bolts that have to be ordered from a vendor and the auto parts stores don't have any listings for C7 wheel studs. I have some ARPs on order from Summit but won't know if they are the correct size until I receive them.
Bill
Bill I bought these. They are identical in length to oem with a couple more threads. Oem has plenty of thread engagement if using no spacers.
fyi. My hub bolts were way too tight to be able to remove with just pulling the axle back without pulling the axle out which required pulling the shock lower bolt out, the toe link, the upper control arm bolts. Required breaker bar, harder to remove than caliper bolts by quite a bit. I think it's due to them having exposed threads that get filled with brake dust and mud.
If/when you do the rears, I hope you take your time and don't cuss as much as me. Fronts are very easy.
When I replaced the studs on the rear of my C5 and C6 I drilled a hole in the backing plate so I could hammer the studs out as I did in the front since the front and rear knuckles were the same part number. The C7 knuckles aren't the same from front to rear. Is there room to push the stud out the back of the hub and past the rear knuckle like there is on the C5 and C6 as long as a hole is drilled into the backing plate?
When I replaced the studs on the rear of my C5 and C6 I drilled a hole in the backing plate so I could hammer the studs out as I did in the front since the front and rear knuckles were the same part number. The C7 knuckles aren't the same from front to rear. Is there room to push the stud out the back of the hub and past the rear knuckle like there is on the C5 and C6 as long as a hole is drilled into the backing plate?
Bill
Negative. If the hub bolts arent crazy tight and your penetrating fluid works well, all you have to do is remove brake rotor, loosen the axle nut, push the axle in and you can use an offset box wrench or socket with impact universal bit to get the hub out. My car only has 25k miles and I needed a breaker bar to loosen those 3 bolts. So I had to get the axle completely out of the spindle:
upper control arm bolts
Shock lower bolt
Toe link outer bolt
Speed sensor (oops I haven't put that back in yet!)
If your bolts aren't crazy hard to remove this is best case scenario:
This also works, but once again, mine were so darn tight I needed to take everything out of the way and use a 1/2" breaker bar. Def not 84 ft lbs worth.. more like 150 or more...
Last edited by BrunoTheMellow; Oct 30, 2020 at 11:51 AM.