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My C7 will not do anything. replaced battery in my 2016 corvette z51 convertible with new GM, car will not start, no horn no headlights just running lights, replaced both key fob batteries, key fobs will not function, placed key fob in steering column still car will not start. to enter car must use key to enter trunk & release driver door with emergency release in trunk. to exit car must use door release lever on floor. HELP PLEASE
You have no power. If you just changed the car battery, you either bought a bad battery, broke or don't have a good/clean connection, or installed it backwards.
Get a voltmeter and see where the voltage is at. If you’re getting at least the running lights on then perhaps your new battery is low on power. Start there first.
battery can only be installed one way . connections are clean & tight. battery was new from dealership. I've never purchased a new battery which was itself dead
Get a volt meter and start poking around - either the battery is truly dead or something isn't allowing the current to flow. Could be a bad ground connection, the ground wire itself or a blown fuse on the positive side. Start at the battery and work outwards from there.
I've had battery cables go bad in my boat before, the wire corrodes from the inside out so the connection is fine but the juice will not flow. Now with a garage kept car critters might have chewed thru a wire.
There have been posts here on the forum, where the battery has been replaced, and similar problems have occurred.
The issue was that when the positive battery/fuse-block terminals was re-installed and tightened, one of the flat metal strap connection sections did not actually sit flush against another metal strap connection, even though the bolt was tightened. This causes a high resistance connection. Undo the bolt on the positive fuse block connection, and make sure that the 2 (?) flat metal plates/connections are really against each other, not cocked, before tightening the bolt.
I have bought a number of faulty new batteries over the years, including what will be my last Optima that would not hold a charge of more than 9 volts two day after being fully charged... out of the car. So, it happens. That's were to start.
I've also seen a battery cable with completely invisible internal corroding at the molded battery terminal. It looked brand new, the contact was cleaned and tight... intermittently dead. It drove us all nuts until wiggling the cable... a lot... disclosed it. So, don't discount anything without a thorough check. All the best.
There have been posts here on the forum, where the battery has been replaced, and similar problems have occurred.
The issue was that when the positive battery/fuse-block terminals was re-installed and tightened, one of the flat metal strap connection sections did not actually sit flush against another metal strap connection, even though the bolt was tightened. This causes a high resistance connection. Undo the bolt on the positive fuse block connection, and make sure that the 2 (?) flat metal plates/connections are really against each other, not cocked, before tightening the bolt.