When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Took my c7 base model in for rear rotors and pad replacement and fluid flush. 59,000+ mi. My mechanic couldn't get some of the bleeders out because of corrosion. Apparently the Italians (Brembo) have not heard of stainless steel. One caliper was ruined because the corrosion was so bad. $800+ to replace To make things worse my extended warranty wouldn't cover "corrosion". Anyone had this same problem?
I have not had the same problem on my Corvette since it is only a three season car, though I have a possible solution for you going forward: spray your calipers, brackets and brake hardware with Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Protector or similar product. Amsoil HDMP is an aerosol of oil, wax and solvent which sprays on as a liquid and dries to a brownish/yellowish wax-like coating. Obviously be careful not to spray this on the rotors. No, I am not a rep for Amsoil.
I did this with my 2010 Mazda 3 daily driver shortly after I bought it in 2010. Despite living in the northeast with heavy road salt used, my calipers and brake hardware are still rust free - including the bleed screws. I reapply each spring or summer as needed, so now the coated parts look dark brown/gray or black. I also use on nearly everything underneath the car, including the engine compartment, door frames and wheel wells.
Thanks for that info. Another problem is that my extended warranty ins won't pay because they don't cover "corrosion". I'm going to call them and explain that a part failed and caused the corrosion. I guess if you broke a rod bolt and threw a rod they would say the don't cover broken fasteners. I have Ford extended warranty ins because I bought the car used from a Ford dealer and they gave me a good price on the insurance. They have paid for a trunk actuator and heater diverter ($1300+). They had to remove the whole dash.
Wilwood makes a bleeder that’s made of a brass bushing with a plastic bleeder. Mixing stainless with aluminum will cause corrosion as well because dissimilar metals.
Wilwood makes a bleeder that’s made of a brass bushing with a plastic bleeder. Mixing stainless with aluminum will cause corrosion as well because dissimilar metals.
Almost correct. Was going to offer this up as an alternate as well. The M1 x 1.0 brass fitting for many Wilwood calipers can be fit to any M10 caliper so long as the thread is acceptable length.
The bleeder nipple inside the brass is 1/4-20 (steel) and like others can rust in time but replacing that doesn't lead to potential damage to the caliper body- the reason for the 2pc bleeder.
The upper set is M10 here. The under hex length to the start of the tapered seat is about 14mm
__________________ TCE
Your one stop...for Wilwood Brakes! 480.967.7901
Does anyone know what metal the factory bleeders are made from? I was amazed how easily mine snapped. They broke while I was opening them up to bleed so maybe the previous owner or a service tech over tighten them aluminum is soft so you need to be careful. Inspecting them I noticed they looked very discolored which is why I went with stainless.