Originally Posted by Dcasole

If you drop it off the engine then you have a harder time breaking the bolt loose as the manifold is now loose, I was able to go right thru the wheel wheel and used a ratcheting passthru socket , tip came from Gary Barnes ...was so much easier this way

Dave

Originally Posted by ajcarson11

Agree with Dave above -- I already had a passthru socket set ($10 from harbor freight). Without that I'd add at least an additional hour to find a way to loosen that hard-to-reach bolt. You need a good amount of torque to break it loose and thus methods that would traditionally work on some nuts (like socket extensions, swivel extensions) won't work.

Originally Posted by ajcarson11

If you have experience working on cars casually (change oil, spark plugs, diagnose issues, know what all items in the engine bay are, etc) and you are willing to go slow and be patient, it can be done (especially if you're someone who doesn't mind the 'fun' of the work). For me, it took around 8 hours total, going at a slow/medium pace (no rush). Do your research beforehand so that you can avoid getting stuck on common issues. Here are some steps I wrote up to ensure things went as smoothly as possible on my 2014 Z51:1. Disconnect Negative Battery Terminal

2. Remove both 'Corvette' plastic valve covers with Torx T30, disconnect breather tube that might be in way of plastic valve covers coming off.

3. Remove fuse box -- Use impact on large nut securing battery cables at top of box (else it might not come off well). Remove fuse tray.

4. Remove spark plug boots (and spark plugs if desired) -- Use screwdriver to pry out boots. NOTE: Just remove the spark plugs... I initially tried to do the install without pulling the plugs and I cracked at least one, causing frustration later on.

5. Remove manifold heat shields. Soak header bolts in PB blaster.

6. Lift car. Remove tunnel brace. Spray PB blaster on everything underneath.

7. Drain oil (replace drain plug bolt when done, put oil container in front seat so you don't forget to add oil before start). Don't forget to remove oil fill cap to help drain.

8. Unbolt/remove Xpipe. Install new gaskets on xpipe. Remove/swing diagonal aluminum bracing bars out of way.

9. Remove dry sump oil lines (or see if can just remove starter) -- Make sure to tie-off to prevent oil drip.

10.Remove OEM cat pipes - Use two-wrench method if needed to get around tight clearances (see picture saved in phone) or pass-thru socket set. Use ONLY 6 point sockets, fully seat all sockets before loosening. Can remove studs with socket if bolts are siezed. Consider loosening manifold bolts (to block) to ease access.

11. Disconnect O2 sensors -- Pull the white tab up and flip connector to the back and insert flathead between the connector and twist/pry-apart.

12. Remove starter heatshield

13. Remove manifolds -- Use only 6 point sockets.

14. Soak O2 sensors on manifolds in PB blaster.

15. Remove O2 sensors (using heat) and install in new headers. Take note of which sensor goes to which pipe. Inspect gaskets and decide if using OEM or aftermarket provided.

16. Cleanup header bolts and coat in blue loctite

17. Install headers from bottom (or passenger from top) along with gasket. Hand-thread bolts, leave loose. Note: Make sure to install gasket correctly based upon its labelling.

18. Attach O2 sensors to car. Zip tie safely from heat/touching pipes.

19. Install cat pipes.

20. Torque header bolts to 18ft/lbs

21. Jig everything up loosely. Check clearance to tunnel brace, starter, and frame. Need 1/2" of clearance to tunnel brace -- Push pipes to adjust.

22. Make sure no wires are touching header (including spark plug wires)

23. Tighten everything down. Torque specs: x-pipe to header 18ft/lbs, small tunnel bolts 20, large tunnel bolts 75, bolts for assembly of cat pipes to header ???

- Push the pipes up into the tunnel when tightening the rear clamps or the may hit the tunnel plate.

24. Reverse order everything above.

25. Install oil filter, add new oil. 9 quarts, then start and check. Don't forget to add oil cap back on.

Originally Posted by clovergamecock

Thanks for the write up!!! I'm going to print this off and study it.

I'm not afraid if taking it apart. Its putting it back together that freaks me out!! I have the skill just not the confidence!!! I've done a frame off restoration of a 71 and I am working on a 69 now. They are like basic Lego sets. The technology scares the crap out of me!!!

Wade

Originally Posted by ajcarson11

If you're working on restorations then I really think you can do this -- It's pretty hard to break/mess anything up on a more modern car (that isn't covered in rust). Installing headers doesn't require a lot of tech knowledge... it's still all bolts, pipes, and mechanical functions. Even removing the fuse box has little risk -- its all packaged pretty well and generally only goes back together in one smooth manner. Do you have another car that you can easily drive while you're working on this? If so, i'd say take it on! It'll boost your confidence, you can go slow (especially when/if you get frustrated) and get help on the forum. If you're generally careful I can't imagine what you might run into that would require you to tow from your house to a shop -- Any issues you find just may slow you down a bit -- but its otherwise just basic work (with a lot of steps).

If you didn't have a separate car, were on a strict timeline, bought cheap parts (that likely won't fit easily) or just flat-out weren't interested in DIY type projects, then i'd tell you to have a shop do it -- but if you're interested in taking it on, it really isn't that difficult.

Originally Posted by Skid Row Joe

If you have to ask? You're not capable of the installation. I've been installing headers since 1970.......

Originally Posted by Skid Row Joe

If you have to ask? You're not capable of the installation. I've been installing headers since 1970.......

Originally Posted by ImpliedConsent

What? That's not even right. I had never done the header install on a C7 - ever. I've done header installs on many cars, just not the C7. I've even watched youtube video's to make sure I'm not missing anything.
Question to you SRJ: did you personally install headers on your C7? How was the install? Any tips you can offer instead of judging people?

Originally Posted by clovergamecock

1970 headers are easy!!!🤣🤣 I'm putting headers and side pipes on my 69!😉

Originally Posted by Skid Row Joe

No, it doesn't need headers. This isn't 1970. But it's not all that difficult. You've got to have the know how, proper lifts and tools just as it did in 1970. Don't know why you ask - unless you've not done that before.

Originally Posted by ImpliedConsent

...Question to you SRJ: did you personally install headers on your C7? How was the install? Any tips you can offer instead of judging people?

Originally Posted by Skid Row Joe

No, it doesn't need headers. This isn't 1970. But it's not all that difficult. You've got to have the know how, proper lifts and tools just as it did in 1970. Don't know why you ask - unless you've not done that before.