When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I noticed a while back that my car wasn’t staying cool when I was thrashing it. But now it doesn’t even seem to stay cool during regular driving! The other day I took it out and glanced down at the gauges to see that it was one notch away from the red on the coolant temps.
I thought this might have been due to air in the system so I drained it, installed a performance radiator and refilled giving it a proper burping.
Temps are still in the 260 range and the radiator is only medium-hot to the touch, not 260f hot.
Bad temp sensor.
look at the difference of the oil and water temps. If the engine was really running that hot the oil temp would also be high.
Only good way to remove all the air in the system is to use a vacuum, such as Air Lift.
Bad temp sensor.
look at the difference of the oil and water temps. If the engine was really running that hot the oil temp would also be high.
Only good way to remove all the air in the system is to use a vacuum, such as Air Lift.
Airlift is the ticket for sure and a lisle spill free funnel is great for refilling without creating air pockets.
It’s starting to look like I may have an air lock somewhere.
ive taken the car out 4 times now. Every time when I got back I let the car cool down and opened the rad cap. Each time it’s gurgled and sucked down a bit more coolant (assuming to replace air pockets?)
It’s now running at 230 after 20 mins of slightly spirited
driving.
I should be expecting better than this with a performance radiator, water wetter and only 15% antifreeze - right?
You will probably get a CEL for a malfunctioning thermostat!
And will cause excessive engine wear, and reduced horsepower if the engine runs too cool.
Some 2014 C7s have bad coolant fans, the built-in fan controller sometimes doesn't turn on the fan when it should. Turning off the engine, and restarting temporarily fixes the problem.
Last edited by ersatz928; Mar 19, 2021 at 11:16 AM.
And will cause excessive engine wear, and reduced horsepower if the engine runs too cool.
Some 2014 C7s have bad coolant fans, the built-in fan controller sometimes doesn't turn on the fan when it should. Turning off the engine, and restarting temporarily fixes the problem.
the wear and reduced hp would only happen if the engine was constantly running cool
tho right? My engine seems to have no issue getting to temp and quickly.
I don’t think it can be the cooling fan as I can hear it running all the time. Not only that but my temps go UP while driving and down while in traffic.
im wondering if my FMIC is just pushing too much hot air into the rad?
Man TURN ON YOUR A/C full, then MAKE sure your fans did come on ok. If that is good then open you radiator cap then let it get up to temp with the A/C on then you will see the water start to move thur the system. Then start to fill it up until it is full then you will be good... Don't remover the stock 190 from the system. Robert
Man TURN ON YOUR A/C full, then MAKE sure your fans did come on ok. If that is good then open you radiator cap then let it get up to temp with the A/C on then you will see the water start to move thur the system. Then start to fill it up until it is full then you will be good... Don't remover the stock 190 from the system. Robert
tried all that. Even jacked up the rear of the car so that the bubbles will rise upwards to the expansion tank.
Also went out in the car several times, hit the brakes hard to move all the coolant around thenwaited until it had cooled before opening up the tank and adding more.
I think my cooling issues are party down to the pro charger vertical intercooler tho. I’m running a lot of boost so I imagine the interxooler is adding a lot of heat to the rad
tried all that. Even jacked up the rear of the car so that the bubbles will rise upwards to the expansion tank.
Also went out in the car several times, hit the brakes hard to move all the coolant around thenwaited until it had cooled before opening up the tank and adding more.
I think my cooling issues are party down to the pro charger vertical intercooler tho. I’m running a lot of boost so I imagine the interxooler is adding a lot of heat to the rad
It is hard to diagnose over the internet. First, thing we really don't know is how hard are you driving the car. Just because you say you are driving it hard doesn't mean you are actually driving it hard. For instance, your coolant temp of 226 degrees is just a little higher than I see with my C7Z when I am on the track running fast laps with speeds up to 155 mph. Even starting out with coolant and oil temps below 170 it only takes one 3.2 mile lap to bring the engine up to 220 coolant and 269 oil temperatures.
I think my cooling issues are party down to the pro charger vertical intercooler tho. I’m running a lot of boost so I imagine the interxooler is adding a lot of heat to the rad
So the car is modified... then no real surprise that the stock cooling system is struggling.
And I just noticed the European (I assume) temp gauge fixes the problem of incorrect read out on the US spec 2014 analog temp display! why didn't GM just use this gauge for all models? Same with the fuel gauge... I like the Euro one better too! Why GM why?!?
tried all that. Even jacked up the rear of the car so that the bubbles will rise upwards to the expansion tank.
Also went out in the car several times, hit the brakes hard to move all the coolant around thenwaited until it had cooled before opening up the tank and adding more.
I think my cooling issues are party down to the pro charger vertical intercooler tho. I’m running a lot of boost so I imagine the interxooler is adding a lot of heat to the rad
If you did this and it did work this is what I did to fix the problem. So it has to be your little 190 thermostat. Robert
It is hard to diagnose over the internet. First, thing we really don't know is how hard are you driving the car. Just because you say you are driving it hard doesn't mean you are actually driving it hard. For instance, your coolant temp of 226 degrees is just a little higher than I see with my C7Z when I am on the track running fast laps with speeds up to 155 mph. Even starting out with coolant and oil temps below 170 it only takes one 3.2 mile lap to bring the engine up to 220 coolant and 269 oil temperatures.
Bill
I wasn't driving hard-hard, as my car is still in the process of being tuned for the additional boost. However I did a couple of pulls to about 5k rpm and a bit of driving around town. So no where near the level of hard use it would see on a track.
Originally Posted by JMII
So the car is modified... then no real surprise that the stock cooling system is struggling.
And I just noticed the European (I assume) temp gauge fixes the problem of incorrect read out on the US spec 2014 analog temp display! why didn't GM just use this gauge for all models? Same with the fuel gauge... I like the Euro one better too! Why GM why?!?
Not the stock cooling system. As mentioned in my first post I'm running a performance radiator (about 2x thicker core than OEM) and also mostly straight water + water wetter. I also have a 160deg Tstat and have deleted my A/C so thats one less radiator for air to pass through.
Originally Posted by 123sugey
Like the last two posters ... really looks like a bad thermostat. I do agree though making good power the inter cooler is another issue for sure.
There's no harm in removing the tstat just for testing purposes is there?
I may put a thermal probe on the intercooler too to see how much heat that is adding. Its hard to get a good idea based on AIT's as I'm spraying meth.
Why is my coolant temp 260f!
on track my oil runs about 40 degrees above water temp. During street driving they mirror each other and both stabilize to 195-200.
why didn't GM just use this gauge for all models? Same with the fuel gauge... I like the Euro one better too! Why GM why?!? 
