New to me 2016 stingray vert 3lt z51. Purchased around Mar 2020 with 38k miles. Check engine came on less than 1000 miles into ownership. Chassis control module code as well as intermittent rear axle and misfire came with it. Took it to dealer and they reflashed ecu. Check engine immediately returned and took it back. They suggested maybe I used bad gas. Cleared codes, fresh new tank and was ok for a few hundred miles. Same codes returned. Didn't have time to take it to dealer, check engine came and went on its own. My friend borrowed car. Car went into a severe misfire under his possession. Had to tow it back. Talked to dealer, drivetrain warranty had expired by one month. Didn't want to deal with back and forth so took to independant mechanic. He repaired issues within the vvt system. I don't know exactly what was done, but it cost me north of $2k. Car ran fine after. Check engine still returned for chassis control. I had purchased new module from GM but had yet to program and install. Car ran well after repairs, check engine was less prevalent but still around. There was a clunk noise from under. Sounded like loose exhaust? Shipped it overseas. Figured I'd fix it there. Turned out to be driveshaft couplers in torque tube. Both were cooked. Purchased bilet aluminum pieces (blackdogspeedshop) to replace rubber broken ones. All put back together.. Alternator tensioner went bad almost immediately (first or second drive after repair). Replaced that. Drove car about 350 miles with no issues. At the end of a long weekend with the car, it shut off pulling into my driveway, I had given the throttle a good blip and it just stalled after the RPMs came down. THIS IS WHERE IT ALL GOES DOWNHILL. Tried to restart car. Small amount of smoke came out. Smelled electrical. Pushed the car inside home. Mechanic came. Starter was fried. Weird. We sent for a new one, but the question was, why'd I stall? New starter fired up the car, albeit a bit sluggish. Car didn't make it back to shop. Stalled out. New starter burnt out. Engine not turning well by hand. Did some research and read that when removing torque tube, if not replaced properly, engine may sieze due to a small amount of play in crank? Something like that. So I deduced my mechanic made this mistake. Weird I was able to enjoy 350 miles out of her though. Sure enough I believe a few crank bearings were shot. My mechanic replaced the necessary parts. Put all back together. Engine still sluggish to start. Still stalling. Still burning out starters. Finally programmed new chassis control module just in case. So the latest car starts, but drops oil pressure after warm and stalls. My mechanic believes it has to do with the vvt system. Car has maybe 43k. Its in a 3rd world country and resources are low. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

When you have rod bearings go bad like that, you can't just replace rod bearings and go on your merry way. That engine is toast. It is also possible the VVT issue was a damaged lifter and send enough metal through the motor to kill it too. You need to find a mechanic that can do it right(good luck) and have the engine rebuilt or order a crate motor. Then have it installed properly.