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Thats what I expected a nice chunk of money for Mr. Goodwrench. I usually trade in after three years but because of anticipated C8 and then Covid and then backlog of C8's I kept it to long.
I appreciate the Reply
You need a GM MDI scanner/controller to diagnose the problem. The MDI tool is used to watch the oil pressure change when the engine is running at a constant 1200 rpm. The tool is used to command the valve on and off to cause a change in oil pressure. If the oil pressure changes more than 4 psi then the valve is considered good and the problem is being caused by something else. If the valve is determined to be good then they clear the code and duplicate the conditions seen in the freeze-frame file to see if the code resets.
The cheap repair is the code doesn't reset, the next cheapest is pulling the front cover and replacing the valve. The unlucky expensive repair means further tear down of the engine.
I have this same problem on my latest build and yes you have to drop the oil pan (to get the oil pump off and oil pressure solenoid harness disconnected), as well as removing everything in front of the engine (accessories, etc.) and removing the lower pulley and balancer and also need a pully remover (also depends if a stock or running a more custom setup like myself with an ATI balancer and DSX pulley). Either way, you need a pulley remover tool, then you can remove the front cover and access the oil pump. Remove the oil pump, a new oil pump doesn't require alignment tools which I would recommend you purchase (I went with a Katech High Flow Billet oil pump 30%+ more flow) just because I have a higher horse setup. Same style and mounting locations. The new pump just mounts with slight pressure pushing up on the pump when installing so gravity doesn't push down a bit. I've done multiple now and new pumps pretty much install with zero play. Oil pumps installed you have to use alignment tools to install at your exact old pump location. Search the forum if you plan on installing the same oil pump with a new solenoid addition. If you are mechanical you can do it. I have some youtube help videos on how to get the oil pan off with the engine in the car (not quite easy), but I make it easier with some tricks. Others have used this method with tons of compliments. My new video will show you how to do this exact install from start to finish. Should be done in 2-3 weeks.
Torque specs are key, and proper GM sealant on the cover and pan are key. I think I go over all that in my video. The last thing you want is an oil leak after many hours of labor. So take your time and make sure the surfaces are sanded in a cross hatch pattern and very clean. Good luck!
These cars can really throw you with codes. Just FYI Bill has been around a while also and I would also take his advice, especially if you are having a shop do all the labor. It could be something totally else causing the issue so you want to be 100% certain.