Thank you..never thought about ceramic coating.

 

Thank you BillyC7 for the advice and advisement on emissions....I will be getting a detail done this Sunday and then will send pics

 

Thank you for the advice Internet Ninja, but I do have a novice question....what exactly does a tune entail and what type should I get?

 

Thank you CraigStu....I have been thinking about that potential problem...not sure how I should proceed.

 

The tune involves rewriting your computer program to accommodate the changes made. I personally would want to see what the goal is, do the mods and get it on a dynamometer to have the guy make adjustments to the computer program to optimize the mods.

 

What emission requirements do you have?

See what you must do. So for instance, I live a couple miles from the Dodge County border. If my car is registered there, I don't have to do squat. If it is registered in Washington County, you have to scan it every year to renew your plates. Some have even used Dad's address in another county

 

As already mentioned, you have to tune the cars Engine Control Module for a few different reasons. #1) You will throw check engine lights due to Catalyst Inefficiency. These needs to be removed. If you live in an area where you have to go through emissions, you will need to tune the car before you start it or you will always fail. If you don't live where you have to deal with emissions, you can actually remove the rear set of O2's and have them tuned out by your tuner. #2) You will lose low-mid range torque unless the timing and fuel is optimized for the headers. The car will actually feel a bit sluggish. Additionally you will not be running optimal timing or fuel at full throttle either and will be leaving power on the table. #3) Often the knock sensor logic needs to be tweaked with headers so that the ECU doesn't register false knock which will rob you of power.

There are three ways to accomplish a tune. All have their advantages and disadvantages. The pricing is actually similar for all of the options.

#1) Purchase HPTuners software and hire a remote tuner such as myself to build you a tune. You will need a laptop and a little computer proficiency but it is pretty easy. HPTuners has documentation on how to connect to your ECU. This is the best option IMO because HPTuners software can change things that the others cannot and most GM remote tuners use HPTuners only. It's pretty much the gold standard. With this option you buy HPTuners and the licenses. I think its $299 for the Software plus $200 in credits then you would need a remote tuner to build your file. That cost is actually pretty reasonable compared to the other options. PM me if you want more info.

#2) Get a hand held device. I won't name the popular brand on here because I have nothing good to say about their canned tunes other then the hand held device makes it easy for the end user to flash their ECU. This option is pretty much worthless unless you get a member here, Diablew, to build you a tune for this device. The handheld device is around $400-500 plus the cost for Diablew which IIRC is about $400.

#3) Find a local dyno shop that has experience tuning Gen V GM cars and have them do the tuning for you. You won't need to do anything buy pay the fee's. With this option you will likely pay $200 for dyno time, $200 for licensing and anywhere from $300-600 for the tuners time.

You should pick whichever option suites you best.

 

If you are going to do mods after mods and trying different ones, I'd learn to DIY. It is expensive to keep making tweaks after tweaks if you are racing and switching combinations.

I prefer to do it as a batch, get it tuned on a dyno by a competent tuner so I have a baseline, do mods and see what it does. He has a lot more experience with doing something and seeing what he gets objectively

 

Just want to throw another option out there. This may be more desirable if you are unwilling or unable to retune the vehicle.

Some people drive ~1000hp, and prefer to keep noise level down near or below OEM in the process, for normal daily driving and 'sand bagging' for those interesting occasions, keep the vehicle looking and sounding factory.
They also want to hear the engine sometimes, as loud as possible, maximum power effort.


The solution can be an exhaust cutout system. There are many types, electric, mechanical, boost activate, slider, butterfly, duals, wireless, etc...
Cutouts provide both worlds: You get to keep the factory exhaust on the car which control noise for daily driving. You also get to make it as loud and smelly as you want at the press of a button.

A car doesn't need to be loud, to be fast.

 

I think the problem is it DID need to be loud to be fast since the technology didn't exist. As such, people tend to fuss over the sound because that is what they were told and they pass the "old wives' tales" on and the next generation believes it. IMO, that is why GM, Ford, etc made the engine sound in the cabin. To cater to these people.

 

Well put.

IMHO
As a diy novice, exhaust is a great first mod for learning how to work on a car. Wrenching experience.
As a masters/phd level engine design, exhaust system manufacturer, control theory engineer, etc... finding ways to cancel out the noise is good modelling experience.

As a performance enthusiast, sometimes you want it loud, and sometimes you want it quiet. The Quiet has diagnostic potential in that you may closely listen to the engine internals while it is running- extremely important and desirable feature for a performance vehicle. It also saves you a headache. The loud also has some diagnostic feature, it can be useful to audibly detect a misfire more easily for example.

As a combination with everything and decades of experience, you eventually will learn that turbochargers act as mufflers and make up for those losses associated with exhaust plumbing designs which adequately can muffle noise for typical daily driving of a vehicle.

 

I hate to be a negative on exhaust mods, but you have received good info on that and info about tunes to support the mods. You need to know that tuning the ECU will always be detectable by GM dealers and will be the GM reason for any failure in your engine to void any warranty claim you my present..

 

Think it goes without saying that most who are wanting to put down the serious numbers are willing to ditch the warranty if they are not already out of the warranty window. Not many people are going to start heavily modifying a car when still under warranty unless money is not a concern

 

True. That is why I bought my first and last new car in 91.

 

2" headers and get that bad boy tuned after.

 

Yep. I run 2” ARH LT with their x pipe into stock NPP mufflers. Loud as it needs to be when the valves are open.

Also, be sure to keep all of your old exhaust stuff. We’re living in uncertain times and they may actually make emissions violations punishable by jail time at some point. 😳