Or you can do it the poor mans way. Get to a grassy area and get get up to 20 mph or so and hit the brakes hard enough to cycle the ABS. Do this 3-4 times. That will push fresh(er) fluid through the module, take the wheels back off and flush again. But, like Tinkertech mentioned, the easy way it to use the right tool to electronically do it. For me, I'd rather have it done properly. Easier and more thorough. $300 to flush sounds salty, find a competent indy shop. Still, even at $300, it not like your doing this even annually.

 

I agree, but when I changed mine two years ago it only took ~2/3 qt. without tending to the ABS. I used a HFT Bleeder Kit which worked well. Used it on my truck recently, too.

 

Why do you say this? How much time would it be to do the job? I have the Motive Products one and I would have to vacuum up the fluid first, fill it up then engage the bleeder. But before I do that, I would have to put it on jackstands and take the wheels off. After doing it, you have to wash the calipers and rotors off. Next you would have to torque down the lug nuts and then take it for a test drive.

 

Thats exactly why I use an excessive amount of Fluid. No way was I going to redo the flush if I had a couple of bubbles stuck some where in the system. Kept flushing with ABS until all the calibers ran clear and no bubbles at all.

 

Because you are not getting the entire system flushed. Without a TechII to activate and cycle the ABS pump during the flush, you are leaving dirty fluid in there, which is the biggest cause of ABS pumps going bad. Think of it like the Ranger system to flush our throwout bearings. Yes, there is new fluid going in there, which is better than nothing, but it isn't truly flushing the entire system through the bleeder. We make do so we don't have to drop the torque tube to get at the TO bearing.

ABS pump is the same thing. Yes you are getting new fluid in there, but you naturally bypassing that pump which needs to be electronically triggered/cycled to be flushed properly and extend the service life. Those pumps ain't cheap on a Buick, can't imagine what they'd be on a Corvette. Plus, GM has a habit of not supporting these things much beyond 10 years. Once they go, you are stuck trying to find a decent used one. I am not aware of anyone that rebuilds ABS pumps.

So, for $300 every 3-5 years, its very cheap insurance. I'm not a tech by any stretch, but I've learned a few things. You could probably find a capable indy shop to do it for $200 or less. Just make sure they have the proper tools to cycle that pump. Good luck

 

So why does it sound salty to you for $300?

 

That's not what I said at all. Reread my last paragraph

 

This is what I am asking.

For me having the tool to do that plus the labor, I don't think $300 is that bad.

 

Exactly, I agree. Those devices and subscriptions cost money. Its easy for those of us who grew up in the analog days to see an hours worth of work and gripe about a procedure where the tech barely lifts a finger. Those specialty devices and tools ain't cheap anymore!

 

PSA:

If you use the Motive pressure bleeder that has the aluminum cap, this cap will destroy the locking lug on the brake fluid reservoir. I had to replace this reservoir after I bled my system because the cap would no longer lock on.

Motive sent me a standard cap that was made of plastic to use instead. Not sure this cap will prevent the stripped locking lug issue because I never used it yet because I was already finished bleeding my system.

 

9 years and 2 cars, very frequent brake bleeds....sometimes 6 per year due to track use....never had an issue with the softer cap on my C6 or my C7.

 

Is your 'softer' cap made of plastic?

Note:
There is only one locking lug on the reservoir. It is on the tab that faces the valve cover. Kind of hard to see but if you destroy it the cap will still go on but won't have the extra safety of the locking lug.

When you install the original reservoir cap, you can feel the locking lug engage if it is still there with out any damage.

 

I grew up in late 60s but I wish I grew up later in the 90s. Much prefer the digital age. Never cared for the analog days. I moved all my toys to EFI as soon as I could and a couple of lawn things to battery.

 

It's either a soft plastic or a hard rubber. Inside the cap is a rubber seal. Push down slightly when screwing it on to compress the seal and not screw up the locking tab.

As I said, no issues for years. After 30+ years of doing this, I've installed more than a few master cylinder caps. It's quite easy to feel the locking lug engage so I know for a fact there's no damage....that and after literally thousands of track miles I'm sure I would have seen evidence of leakage or lost a cap if there was damage.

 

So push down would be fine for either metal or plastic cap?

 

Don't see why it wouldn't work with the billet cap. It certainly works with the plastic one.

I think the issue is that the art of using even a tiny bit of finesse on occasion has been lost.

 

It came with 2 gaskets. Thick one does not work and thin one is too loose. Before I try anything else, I'd like to ask around and see if I am alone with this problem. I'd rather not finesse it in and break something or be unable to finesse it out.

 

Same here.
The thick gasket does not give you enough clearance to close the cap even if you push down, no way. The thinner gasket was still on the thick side and barely made it on all the way but with too much finesse and torque and in the process the one and only locking tab was damaged to the point that it was almost completely sheared off by the metal Motive cap. Thats when they sent me a plastic 'standard' cap. Never got a chance to try it because the brake bleed was already completed.

And "finesse" had nothing to do with it. The metal cap and supplied gaskets were not designed for our brake reservoirs. Gasket made of too hard of material, would not compress, and metal ears on their cap just sharp enough to shear off the locking tab. I finally had to use a thinner gasket from another tool to get the metal cap on all the way.

Metal and plastic don't always play together well. The metal cap can and will just shear off the locking tab and you will need to replace the reservoir.

 

Gents, all I can offer is that I've used mine for nearly a decade on a C6 and a C7. Motive may have changed the design. Chevy may have changed something on the master cylinder. Who knows. It's unfortunate it's not working as one might reasonably expect. The only other thing I could think of is pushing down (slightly) and turning which more than one person has not done.....they just slam it on and twist.

Given that it's not working, I'd either return it or buy a GM master cylinder cap to replace the Motive cap. Buy a cap for $5, drill a hole, install a barbed fitting, install it on the hose. Might need a super thin gasket from the hardware store for better sealing. McMasterCarr sells all kinds of material that's precut or you can buy sheets that you can cut to make your own. They have a variety of very thin material available.

Other than that....I'm out of ideas