Catfish4818

Can a dealership perform a brake fluid flush without removing the wheels (2015 Z51)?

Or to ask it another way, do the brake calipers have an inboard bleeder screw that would allow a brake fluid flush to be performed without wheel removal?

TIA,
Larry

BELVIN20

Not likely, the inboard bleeder is not reachable( or was not to me), I had to pull the wheels to do the flush.

Bill Dearborn

I agree. Wheels have to come off.

Bill

Catfish4818

Thanks, guys!

Scoobydoobydoo

Bill,

Do you remember the proper order when bleeding them. I know you posted it once but cant find it.

Thanks

vivasantana

Usually always start with the furthest to the closest from the Master Cylinder.
Keep the cap on but loose & don't let it empty or of course you will pull air in.


Rock on Santana! Rock on!
Six decades strong!

93 Vette
74 Capri MK1 modified

96GS#007

The C7 is a crisscross system....left rear / right front and vice versa. Drain the master cylinder and fill with fresh fluid. Jack up the rear of the car and do both rears. Once complete, do the fronts. It's not like the old days. I've never bled mine any other way and it's just fine.

If you want to read detail...https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ure-specs.html

You can also look at Post 11 here: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-sequence.html

Bill Dearborn

The FSM indicates you should bleed in the following sequence: RR, LF, LR, RF. However, the long standing rule is to bleed the furthest bleeder from the master cylinder first followed by the nearest bleeder. So like Jim says you can jack the rear up, bleed the rear calipers first (since both are the furthest from the master on their individual circuits), and then bleed both fronts. The FSM says for fixed calipers like the Corvette has to bleed the inner half first followed by the outer half. When I used to run Wilwood calipers on my C5 and C6, Wilwood said to bleed outer first followed by inner. I don't think it makes any difference as long as you choose a sequence and use it consistently.

Bill

JMII

Using the furthest away logic you would do outside bleeders first... but I've done it both ways and never noticed a difference.

Gunsmokez

Sorry to top this up, But would like to know the proper order of wheel to be bled on the c7. Need to do a flush as its near 3 years now. Dealer wants $300 for it, fat chance lol. Also, is 1 bottle enough for the whole job?

Tinkertech

Just did my 17. I used 10 16 once bottles to completely flush the system and I also activated the anti-lock system on each wheel to also flush it. Using a Motive Products power flusher, air only, you go through a lot of fluid very fast. I did this on every wheel. Just kept going round and round till all the fluid was bubble free and clear as can be. Fluid is cheap and it's a real hassle to put the car up on the QuickJack. Too much stuff in the garage and everything has to be moved to provide enough room to operate. Wanted to be sure that the flush was GTG the first time and not have to repeat the whole process.
Damm, those wheels are heavy when your 72.

Catfish4818

I'm intrigued - how is that done?
(And, yes, the wheels are heavy at other ages, too! )

the blur

My dealer techie claimed he left the wheels on. (CCB's) No idea if he did a good job or not. But I didn't get any brake fade last weekend.

Tinkertech

You need a high end scanner that has two way communications and has a brake bleed application

NortonCO

That's 2-3 times the 1-2 qts normally used to flush the system. Fluid is relatively cheap, but not sure why you'd need to use that much?

Which one do you use? Are you happy with it?

Bill Dearborn

I use 2 500 ml (19.2 oz each) containers of brake fluid to flush the system without activating the ABS. If I accidentally get air in the ABS module I will bleed the system followed by driving the car and hitting the brake hard enough to activate ABS several times. Then I go home and bleed the system again. If I am lucky any air captured behind valves in the ABS module will have been freed to progress past the valve when it opened/closed during the hard braking and I will have a hard pedal again.

I don't worry about the small amount of fluid in the ABS module if I don't get air in the module. That has only happened once while I was struggling to get stainless brake lines installed on the car and the left front one gave me lots of problems and I didn't realize all of the brake fluid soaking my shirt and on the floor meant that air got in the module.

Bill

SouthernSon

When I used to use that 'blue' stuff I had occasion to use it after using clear. I found the RR needed about as much as the other three calipers combined. That was on my C5Z. I now just use 32oz. of DoT 4 valvoline for a complete flush within a week of any track events. Have never experienced a problem with brake fade. One vette has wilwood calipers, another AP and one other track car is OEM calipers. No problems. However, I have friends that use SRF and only bleed a little from each caliper at each event for the season. I prefer a good complete flush each time, and thus, cheaper 32oz. valvoline.

Tinkertech

Autel MP808TS
My bottles of brake fluid were 16 oz each. ~10 of them.

Catfish4818

Pricey item!

^&right

Or you can do it the poor mans way. Get to a grassy area and get get up to 20 mph or so and hit the brakes hard enough to cycle the ABS. Do this 3-4 times. That will push fresh(er) fluid through the module, take the wheels back off and flush again. But, like Tinkertech mentioned, the easy way it to use the right tool to electronically do it. For me, I'd rather have it done properly. Easier and more thorough. $300 to flush sounds salty, find a competent indy shop. Still, even at $300, it not like your doing this even annually.