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I am having a engine builder build my engine. I just dropped off the last of the parts and got to talking about the build. He told me he has never built an LS motor before and I said it was an Lt4. In short, he said that all GM LS blocks were junk due to the bad oiling design. Is this true? What is the difference between the Lt4 and LS then? I guess I have never heard of the actual Lt4 block or oiling being an issue. He told me to get a Dart block. The dart block is $4000 more than the OEM Lt4 block, YIKES!!!
My build consist of Magnum crank, enforcer rods, diamond 2K pistons, Whipple 2.9, Crawford 3 piump port injection. Looking for 1000 whp. What are your thoughts?
Find a new builder. The fact he doesn’t have a clue what he’s working on and that he’s never even touched an ls is extremely scary. You’re spending a lot of money and this will not turn out right with that builder.
Get a good engine builder. LME is awesome and Texas Speed built my 416 stroker. Won't like my first brand new $10k short block built from TS did have a faulty crank. Hairline crank which caused the crank to snap near the thrust bearing. They completely covered it and sent me a brand new short block. I have a thread now in tech/perf showing my progress, I just installed the engine and should have it running by Wed. Driving by Friday.
I have had bearing issues with the stock block, bearing and crank issues with the built 416, but that doesn't mean there is a design flaw. I just had bad luck. Most builds that are done right have lots of life. A built short block with the right parts and sleeved will easily hold 1000 wheel. Mine is rated for 1400 wheel.
I am having a engine builder build my engine. I just dropped off the last of the parts and got to talking about the build. He told me he has never built an LS motor before and I said it was an Lt4. In short, he said that all GM LS blocks were junk due to the bad oiling design. Is this true? What is the difference between the Lt4 and LS then? I guess I have never heard of the actual Lt4 block or oiling being an issue. He told me to get a Dart block. The dart block is $4000 more than the OEM Lt4 block, YIKES!!!
My build consist of Magnum crank, enforcer rods, diamond 2K pistons, Whipple 2.9, Crawford 3 piump port injection. Looking for 1000 whp. What are your thoughts?
Thanks
He is most likely saying it is "junk" because it is not a priority main oiler. It oils the lifters first. The aftermarket LS blocks like the LSX oil the main bearings first--standard high performance stuff.
The gen 1 SBC actuAlly had a better oiling system stock to stock.
It is 2022, you can buy really nice built LS and LT motors off the shelf or from
GM and there are many capable builders who know and build these things regularly. I would NEVER give money to someone who proclaims them "junk" without even touching one--and apparently not being aware that there are 1200 hp stock bottom end LS running around with STOCK "junk" oiling running numbers and living! Find a different builder. LS/LTs are very sensitive to rod and main clearance--you can have a brand new build with single digit idle pressure if you use "traditional" clearances!
He is most likely saying it is "junk" because it is not a priority main oiler. It oils the lifters first. The aftermarket LS blocks like the LSX oil the main bearings first--standard high performance stuff.
The gen 1 SBC actuAlly had a better oiling system stock to stock.
It is 2022, you can buy really nice built LS and LT motors off the shelf or from
GM and there are many capable builders who know and build these things regularly. I would NEVER give money to someone who proclaims them "junk" without even touching one--and apparently not being aware that there are 1200 hp stock bottom end LS running around with STOCK "junk" oiling running numbers and living! Find a different builder. LS/LTs are very sensitive to rod and main clearance--you can have a brand new build with single digit idle pressure if you use "traditional" clearances!
Hey, thanks for the info. Do you have a list of things I should ask the builder? There has to be a lot of things that are crucial that I am unaware of. Really need to make sure this is put together correctly. I am tired of people saying, "Oh yeah we do this and that all the time" and then I find out they have never done it and all I get is problems.
So - WHY would you pay someone who has never built an LS motor to build an LS for you ??? There are plenty of good builders with lots of LS experience out there.
Question #1 - How much experience do you have with Building LS/LT Motors ?
Question #2 - Do you have in-house dyno / tuning capabilities for LS/LT motors ?
Question #3 - I'm looking to build an LT4 Motor making *** Wheel HP *** ft lb of torque. I'm thinking a displacement of *** ci^3, and a max boost of ** psi. The motor needs to be streetable, and to pass state emissions. I'm thinking of a redline of **** RPM. What are your thoughts about what components I should be using ?
Question #4 - If I give you the job - what do you estimate for parts / for labor and for dyno testing / tuning ?
When you start talking about more than about 5 - 6 psi of boost - if you're talking pump gas - you need to talk about intercooling and/or Meth injection. Be concerned if this does not come up in the conversation with the builder.
Thanks for the questions. I didn't let the other guy build it. Pretty much what I talked about with BTR when I got the parts (listed above in post 1). Does $2500 sound fair to assemble a short block? I gave him the parts so it is just labor. Seems a bit high but I have nothing to compare it to.
I certainly think so. Last SBC I had built - I paid around $500 for assembly labor - but that was quite a while ago... I'd say that assembling a LS Long block is worth about a day's labor - maybe a bit more - so somewhere around $1,000 - $1,250 - however - that's with one (big) caveat.... If there is a problem - and clearances do NOT check correctly - the amount of work required goes up - sometimes dramatically. Since you provided the parts - the increase is now "on you". But - This is where dealing with a professional builder is super helpful - those guys know what to do when they run into one of these problems - and the answer for a street engine that will never turn over 6,500 RPM may be quite different than the answer for an engine that will regularly turn 7.800 RPM.