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Hello,
I’m new to this forum, just wanted to get some opinions on who is the best tuner. I just did a dyno tune but results are not as expected. I’ve seen many other members here with less mods with higher numbers than me.
2015 C7 Stingray
Texas speed Headers and x pipe, straight pipe axle back.
MSD manifold
Halltech CAI
103 mm throttle body
Cam (not sure what type, car already had when bought)
Dsx flex fuel kit but not on e85.
That is low. He should be around 460-470 with what's been done to the car. Some guys tune very conservatively, and I'm guessing that's what happened. Did you talk to the tuner and ask him?
That is low. He should be around 460-470 with what's been done to the car. Some guys tune very conservatively, and I'm guessing that's what happened. Did you talk to the tuner and ask him?
I did ask why so low.. he just said that his dyno shows true numbers that many people go on dyno day and get lower numbers from others. But said he was already squeezing all power possible. Still think is too low.
Lots of variables here, auto or manual, is everyone talking numbers at the rear wheels? Dynos are funny things as even the setup can affect numbers. If you really tie the car down too tightly you can lower the final numbers, alternately slipping on the drums can also affect numbers. Finally with a cam with unknown specs it could be something that just isn't designed for best N/A numbers. Maybe the previous guy was looking to go FI or even nitrous and the cam was spec'd to give the best numbers under those conditions.
You really need to see a data log to see what is going on, maybe the car is pulling timing due to false knock or even real knock.
id find a true measure of performance before getting heartbroken. id fully expect a cammed c7 with supporting bolt ons to trap bare minimum 130. a dragy or trip to the drag strip will tell you that much.
dynos read both ways, however it is usually on the high side.
Lots of variables here, auto or manual, is everyone talking numbers at the rear wheels? Dynos are funny things as even the setup can affect numbers. If you really tie the car down too tightly you can lower the final numbers, alternately slipping on the drums can also affect numbers. Finally with a cam with unknown specs it could be something that just isn't designed for best N/A numbers. Maybe the previous guy was looking to go FI or even nitrous and the cam was spec'd to give the best numbers under those conditions.
You really need to see a data log to see what is going on, maybe the car is pulling timing due to false knock or even real knock.
Wasn't there a difference between a Mustang Dyno and a Dynojet dyno? I believe Dynojet is high?
With an unknown cam, could it be hurting performance so that happens? I would think it is a possibility.
Wasn't there a difference between a Mustang Dyno and a Dynojet dyno? I believe Dynojet is high?
With an unknown cam, could it be hurting performance so that happens? I would think it is a possibility.
All roller dynos have variances. It's also true that they can break hearts when you find out that the claimed bump in HP from say a CAI or intake manifold isn't quite what the manufacturer is claiming. A good rule of thumb used to be take whatever they are saying it adds and cut the number in half. Then you likely have the real HP gain from the mod. Also they don't compound, and sometimes even work against one another. Finally for whatever reason some cars are just factory freaks in either direction.
When it comes to dyno tuning you have to start with a baseline and this car was already modded so you really have no idea what that car would do on that dyno on that day in those conditions stock to use as a baseline.
My thoughts are that we should yank that cam and put one in the tuner likes so it can work out AS A SYSTEM and not take a good cam and mate it with an unmatched TB and a stock bottom end, etc.