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2015 Stingray, a/c quit blowing air. Compressor comes on but no air flow either on auto or manual. No heat either. Was working fine earlier today. Any ideas. Could it be heat relater, fuse, etc. It's 88 deg. outside and it's black on black.
So you're saying the blower fan speed is not increasing or decreasing as you turn the control **** ??...you can check fuse 40A in the underhood fuse box...beyond that you'll need a DVOM or test light to see what's happening at the blower control module...a power, ground, and a pulse width modulated (PWM) signal from the HVAC module...I see you live in Florida...if you are near Cape Coral I'd be happy to look at it for you.
Thank you for the response. I'll check #6 40A fuse. So damn frustrating. This happened on the drive home from Chevy dealer after a $3856 repair and 4 weeks just waiting on parts for a fuel sensor and lines. I'm in Citrus County and there are ao cliffs to push it over. Thanks for the offer to look at it.
If you have a voltmeter you can access the blower motor control module after removing the right instrument panel insulator and check a few things.should just be held in with 2 clips…best to use a 12 volt test light to check to see if you have power to both sides of the fuse…that fuse is “hot at all times”…if not something you are willing to tackle yourself best to bring the car to a diagnostic shop and not a general repair shop or a dealership...they only know how to change parts…not diagnose…most if not all dealership techs work “flat rate” so they don’t have time to diagnose…they lose money !!…wiring below is from a 2014 but should work…keep us advised !!…maybe a couple taps in the motor might get it working.
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Thanks again. I checked the fuses themselves with an ohm meter to insure the fuses #6 and #17 are good. Don't understand right instrument panel removal. Can you describe it. Have test light and volt meter.
Best to check each side of fuse with a test light while the fuse is installed to make sure you have power on both sides…hope this video helps !!…I would take your car to Autozone and see if they can scan it for codes…an HVAC code will not illuminate the check engine light.
There is an electrical connection under the glove compartment that gets loose. Remove the panel directly under the glove compartment and check the connection. I had this happen to me and found the solution with a search here. The connector also gets some corrosion which breaks the circuit. Disconnect and reconnect and it should be fine.
C5 DIAG, so many thanks. Removing the plug and putting it back on fixed the problem. I You saved me $100. I drove down a really bumpy road to see if anything else could be causing the problem.
C5 DIAG, so many thanks. Removing the plug and putting it back on fixed the problem. I You saved me $100. I drove down a really bumpy road to see if anything else could be causing the problem.
I’d thank @AmmoVet….saved either you or I a 150 mile trip…LOL !!…I would buy some DeOxit and spray the connector with that stuff.
The video was awesome too. Ain’t this place great!
Don’t know why Corvette owners think the electrical systems of these cars are so unique…if you can understand how these circuits operate you can apply them to ANY car…for a blower motor or any other electrical circuit…all the same !!
AmmoVet, thank you as well. This forum is a must for Vette owners. My '58 sure was easier to work on. It was basically a '55 Chevy with a plastic body. It didn't get much simpler than that.
There is an electrical connection under the glove compartment that gets loose. Remove the panel directly under the glove compartment and check the connection. I had this happen to me and found the solution with a search here. The connector also gets some corrosion which breaks the circuit. Disconnect and reconnect and it should be fine.
Exactly. Believe it or not, sometimes just patting your hand firmly, in the upper passenger footwell will kick the fan in. If that's the case, your connector is bad. I ended up reseating mine, and using a bit of silicone to hold it in, and no issues since.
OK, mine is acting up again, seems like this week I had to slap the bottom of the glove compartment a few times with hefty whacks to get it to come back to life. What is the real fix? Do we need to tear into the connector and replace both sides? Wonder what that will entail?
Anyone else having repeat issues?