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this says it all^
thanks for copying and pasting things with random terms you can't define making random assertions you can't explain
If you figure out what you are talking about at some point call me, we'll hang out
What oil filter is everybody using? I have the regular 2014 3LT. I am thinking the ACDelco gold or the WIX filter.
I'll use PF64.
Car will arrive end of May 2025.
Alhough the first change is free do not believe waiting for 7,500 miles for first oil change.
7,500 miles may take quite some time.
If I can't get my oil filter off calling plant Manager at Engine Assembly.
I looked up the ACDelco gold oil filter. The UPF64R is wrong! It has the wrong bypass pressure, Don't use it! The WIX is a good filter and it has the correct bypass pressure.
I looked up the ACDelco gold oil filter. The UPF64R is wrong! It has the wrong bypass pressure, Don't use it! The WIX is a good filter and it has the correct bypass pressure.
My filter of choice for the past 6 years for my LT4 is the WIX premium WL10290XP which relieves at 22 psid as does the PF64. The UPF64R is the wrong application as it relieves at around 35 psid as I seem to recall. So either PF64 or the Wix are good to go. I do not recall anyone reporting another alternative that has a confirmed 22 psid bypass relief.
I have recently started using the Carquest Premium filter on my C7, I have a Carquest that is directly across the street from my condo (I'm looking out the window at it right now!) and the filter is only $7.95 Canadian, which is $5.55 US! And it's a very well made filter that has an efficiency of 99% at 20 microns. I was previously using the Fram Ultra and had a Fram Endurance ready to go on it but recent tear downs of these filters have shown that Fram is using an inferior leaf spring inside the filter which allows unfiltered oil to get past the media. It's a bummer because the Endurance was originally a very well made filter too (a bit expensive at $13US and only sold at Walmart)
Truth be told though, if you're changing your oil every 3-4k it doesn't matter too much what filter you use. I follow my OLM though, so my typical intervals are closer to 7k.
The Carquest filter is dangerous to use, it has a very low bypass pressure relief. It could be releasing unfiltered oil into the engine. The pressure release is as low as 12 psi. The C7 requires, by GM, 22 psi. This isn't something to go cheap on.
EDIT:
I was wrong. I found a Carquest filter that has a bypass of 25 PSI... It isn't 22 psi but might be ok.
The Carquest filter is dangerous to use, it has a very low bypass pressure relief. It could be releasing unfiltered oil into the engine. The pressure release is as low as 12 psi. The C7 requires, by GM, 22 psi. This isn't something to go cheap on.
EDIT:
I was wrong. I found a Carquest filter that has a bypass of 25 PSI... It isn't 22 psi but might be ok.
I have also heard that it could be 20psi, so either way it's close enough to the 22psi that I'm confident using it. When it's that close to spec it's really not going to go into bypass unless it's on an extreme cold start where you went full throttle almost right away (never going to happen) or if the filter was on there so long that it plugged up (also not going to happen)
Just be sure when you purchase a different filter, you check what the bypass pressure really is. I can do a search for a C7 oil filter and get all sorts of filters that definitely are not correct. I don't know how often our filters bypass, hardly ever or every time we start the car. I would think less is better. I do know if the filter has to high a bypass pressure, no oil going to the engine would be a bad thing. There are filters out there without any bypass valve and with 35 psi bypass pressure.
Just be sure when you purchase a different filter, you check what the bypass pressure really is. I can do a search for a C7 oil filter and get all sorts of filters that definitely are not correct. I don't know how often our filters bypass, hardly ever or every time we start the car. I would think less is better. I do know if the filter has to high a bypass pressure, no oil going to the engine would be a bad thing. There are filters out there without any bypass valve and with 35 psi bypass pressure.
Those filters that are way off are the ones that I worry about, although that being said, when I first got my car Fram specified the Ultra in part number 10060 for our cars and that has a bypass setting of only around 10psi! It wasn't until GM came out with the TSB stating that we need a 22psi filter that Fram came out with the 12060 with that correct pressure. Same thing with NAPA Gold and Carquest Premium, they originally specified filters with a much lower pressure for the LT1 and then later released a newer version with the right pressure. So quite a few people must have been running around with our cars from 2014 up until about 2019 and had filters with a much lower setting.
So 10 degrees Celsius is about 50 fahrenheit
so that means 50 degrees is the "pour point" according to your post a few above
And the actual definition of "pour point" is the "lowest temperature at which an oil is observed to flow by gravity in a specified lab test" or "It is defined as the minimum temperature in which the oil has the ability to pour down from a beaker"
So it won't even come out of a beaker at 50 degrees fahrenheit under normal gravity according to you? (even though it will in real life)
That's kind of amazing that 10W-30 can't flow out of a beaker by gravity at 50 degrees yet I have cars I start with 10W-30 when it's 6 degrees outside.
Also amazing how much of an expert on oil you are yet you started a thread asking what oil filter to use?
Did you skip the filter class when you got your PhD in petroleum engineering?
I realize this is a rather old thread but I recently purchased a low-mileage 2019 GS and it's coming up on an oil change so I wanted to research this forum for information on oil and filters. I figured it would be better to start here rather than the internet because the internet offers anything anyone has ever thought about a subject. I'm questioning that wisdom now.
After reading this thread I decided I'd give the internet a shot at further informing me. My ensuing research let me to the following:
The "W" does indeed mean "winter". The two other numbers do appear to be arbitrarily assigned "differentiators" if you will. The second number is assigning a relative viscosity at "operating temperature" which is determined at 100°C (212°F). Now the first number: This number is intended to provide a viscosity reference as to the ability of the oil to rapidly flow to all engine parts on initial cold start-up. 0W will effectively lubricate down to -40C, 5W down to -35C, 15W down to -25C, and 20W down to -20C.
If you find something other than this, please let me know.
No, the 0W oil doesn't mean it will lubricate down to -40C, which is also -40F. It only means that it has a certain viscosity, down to 0*C, hence the 0*W. The 40 number in 0W-40 is not viscosity, it's a weight which is different than viscosity. Viscosity is the actual thickness of the oil, which changes at every temp. Weight is a spec for an oil. The thickness for the 40 weight oil at a certain temp, can be found on an oil spec chart.
The "W" does indeed mean "winter". The two other numbers do appear to be arbitrarily assigned "differentiators" if you will. .
correct, the numbers are completely arbitrary and could be anything. They just "coorespond" to an actual viscosity rating but those true viscosity numbers would look ridiculous on the side of an oil bottle so we made it simpler.
They basically just provide a "scale" that is used across the industry.
We could call 10w-30 anything, it could be 47w-141 if we wanted. And then we'd know that 23.5W-141 would have better cold performance than 47W-141.
Look at the spec's for each oil grade. A very good chart. This even has the difference between straight 30 weight oil and the multi grade oils. This chart goes from 0*C to 100*C.
The 0 in 0W-30 is an actual specific temp.
Check the 0W-30 viscosity and compare it to the straight 30 weight oil.
Look at the spec's for each oil grade. A very good chart. This even has the difference between straight 30 weight oil and the multi grade oils. This chart goes from 0*C to 100*C.
The 0 in 0W-30 is an actual specific temp.
Check the 0W-30 viscosity and compare it to the straight 30 weight oil.
I have checked the chart thoroughly and cannot see how you arrive at that conclusion The "0" in "0W" is an assigned number to establish a differentiation just as the second number is. By your analysis, in 15W-50 the "15" would be 15°C which is 59°F. Just what is the value in that? I already explained the significance of these numbers to you and if you wish to ignore that information there's nothing else I can do to clarify it for you.
The 0 is a temp rating, it doesn't establish a differentiation. It's there so someone that knows what it means can purchase the correct oil. It means the oil will maintain a certain viscosity down to a certain degrees. Yes the 15 in 15W-30 means 15* C, winter. I think you got it.
The 0 is a temp rating, it doesn't establish a differentiation. It's there so someone that knows what it means can purchase the correct oil. It means the oil will maintain a certain viscosity down to a certain degrees. Yes the 15 in 15W-30 means 15* C, winter. I think you got it.
Please cite your source. The chart you referenced does not support your conclusion. No need to get snippy.
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