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Hi all,
Just got back from my first track day with an upgraded radiator and I'm not too happy. I'm running even warmer than I was running on the original factory radiator. Last track day I was at 240° and this one I hit 260° and went into limp mode. Oil temps were about 278° when it started screaming at me. Ambient temp was 81°. I'm running the CSF 7077 which has good reviews but obviously something is not happy. What can I look at next? I was thinking about adding the LG motorsports oil cooler to try and get some of the oil heat out of the coolant.
2017 Z06 A8
Last edited by Albert Pender; Sep 20, 2023 at 11:28 PM.
Empty the radiator of coolant and pull a vacuum, check for leaks, refill using the vacuum tool. This will assure there is no air pockets trapped. Also replace or test radiator cap.
1. Do you have air in the system?
2. Have you tested the radiator cap? If it has failed it will let in air at too low of pressure.
3. Are you running the correct mixture of coolant to water?
Thermostat or a serious air pocket. Drill the thermostat and test to verify, but I would bet that's the issue. Oil temp is generally about 40 degrees higher than water temp on C7's, an 18 degree difference would indicate water temps are driving oil temps up.
Thermostat or a serious air pocket. Drill the thermostat and test to verify, but I would bet that's the issue. Oil temp is generally about 40 degrees higher than water temp on C7's, an 18 degree difference would indicate water temps are driving oil temps up.
Some of us use liquid to air oil cooling. There is that belief that running oil lines through the all in one coolant radiator only puts more heat into the engine coolant side of the radiator. My Ron Davis radiator only has engine coolant passing through the engine coolant side. I don't use the oil lines on the other side of the radiator. Also, make sure every shroud surrounding is closed off tightly. Wide gaps around the new radiator can greatly affect the efficiency. And, as others have mentioned, make sure no air pockets in system. Oh yeah, thermostat? Some will remove the thermostat completely but that only sends the coolant through the radiator too fast to exchange the heat in some cases. Some restriction (thermostat) slows down the flow enough to allow cooling exchange.
Some of us use liquid to air oil cooling. There is that belief that running oil lines through the all in one coolant radiator only puts more heat into the engine coolant side of the radiator. My Ron Davis radiator only has engine coolant passing through the engine coolant side. I don't use the oil lines on the other side of the radiator. Also, make sure every shroud surrounding is closed off tightly. Wide gaps around the new radiator can greatly affect the efficiency. And, as others have mentioned, make sure no air pockets in system. Oh yeah, thermostat? Some will remove the thermostat completely but that only sends the coolant through the radiator too fast to exchange the heat in some cases. Some restriction (thermostat) slows down the flow enough to allow cooling exchange.
DMS makes a thermostat housing for gen v LT that utilizes an LS3 thermostat. Katech makes a billet restrictor for LS race cars with the thermostat deleted so that can be controlled if it's deemed an issue.
Thanks for all the suggestions. I pulled a hard vacuum on the system and got almost another 3/4 of a gallon into it. Just to be safe I'm gonna swap out the cap and thermostat, they're cheap and easy enough to swap.
My tracks day are usually at Hallett in Oklahoma. Usually on course for about 15 minutes at a time. Would the LG oil cooler be overkill for what I'm doing with it? Assuming I can fix this hard water temp spike.
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