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definite lazy thermostat. The sensor is most likely fine. Change the tstat, and if the coolant is over five years, now is a good time to change it also. Disconnecting the negative battery terminal will reset the fault, such as it is. There will be no codes present.
Define "temp gauge not working". It literally doesn't budge off the 100* or whatever the low reading is or the temp never exceeds "xxx degrees" . If the former, check the sensor plug and test the sensor. If the latter, it's the thermostat.
Define "temp gauge not working". It literally doesn't budge off the 100* or whatever the low reading is or the temp never exceeds "xxx degrees" . If the former, check the sensor plug and test the sensor. If the latter, it's the thermostat.
A lazy or stuck open tstat problem will have as a symptom a zero reading on the digital performance screen, and the analog temp needle will stay at the lowest position. The fans will turn on full blast at shutdown, and at cold start.
A lazy or stuck open tstat problem will have as a symptom a zero reading on the digital performance screen, and the analog temp needle will stay at the lowest position. The fans will turn on full blast at shutdown, and at cold start.
The engine will still warm into the 150s (or more) depending on run time, outside temp, speed, etc. An open thermostat slows the rate.
You believe what you want and have him toss parts at it rather than performing some basic troubleshooting
The engine will still warm into the 150s (or more) depending on run time, outside temp, speed, etc. An open thermostat slows the rate.
You believe what you want and have him toss parts at it rather than performing some basic troubleshooting
Its true that the engine will still warm up based on load, outside temp, etc. I'm only advocating changing the tstat as thats been shown many times to be the culprit. It was in my case too. The sensor is easy to check with an ohm meter so no need to "toss parts" in place of troubleshooting.