I bought a 2015 Corvette Stingray Z51 6 months ago with 41k miles. Soon after buying it I had the software for the Electronic Ride Control upgraded at a Chevrolet dealership at the cost of $350.00 which is a huge improvement. I received 1 key with the car so I bought a 2nd one and had the original key deleted from the car and both added back in to set up as keys 1 and 2 at my local Chevy dealer. Both keys work great. Approx. 1 month ago the inside electronic door button on the drivers side mirror stopped working and within the last week the outside mirrors will not adjust about 40% of the time giving no response to the dash buttons. The passenger side door button works every time. When I start the car and move the automatic transmission stick, the drivers side mirror always moves all of the way down and to the left. I've made changes within the Infotainment System for Vehicle which makes no change to the driver side mirror behavior. The Cruse Control does not work 10% of the time. I can no longer change driver settings for driver 1 or 2 with the button on the door, no beep responses or red lights. Driver 1 and 2 buttons on the door do make adjustments as they should. I've tried the 2014 and 2015 methods to make these changes.

This is want I've done to try and fix so far:
1. I replaced the battery 2 days ago with a AC Delco battery bought from my local Chevy dealer.
2. I replaced the driver side door switch.

I've seen a YouTube video where the positive and negative battery connecters are pressed together or connected together with a jumper cable to remove residual charge from the electronic system such as capacitors. Being a seasoned IT guy, this seems to be a possible fix. I resolved a lot of problems with computer system units this way by removed the power cable and pressing in the power button for 20 seconds, It's called removing Flee Power. I am greatly concerned about doing this to my Corvette. Please advise.

This car always starts, runs, and drives great.

 

Moved to C7 Tech for some assistance.

 

Since you have several gremlins popping up at the same time they are probably electrical.

Roll a window down! Check that the key will unlock the hatch / trunk. You don't want to get locked out!

Start with the battery. New doesn't always mean good. Verify that the small black sensing wire is still attached to the negative battery clamp (important for proper charging). Verify that all battery connections, bus bars on the positive, etc. are in good mechanical contact, clamps pushed down on the posts and level, and that clamps are tight. When you drive the car, monitor charging voltage. It should start relatively high (up to 15 V) and drift down to about 13 V when the battery is fully charged. If you don't see the voltage change the alternator / voltage regulator may be suspect or that little black wire may be broken or disconnected.

You can do a complete computer reset by disconnecting the negative battery cable for 20 - 30 minutes. No real need to touch the cables together. You will need to reindex / reprogram the windows.

Mirrors - in the vehicle personalization menu, turn OFF the feature that lowers the rear view mirror(s) in reverse. Set your mirrors and seat memory in Park or Neutral and then add the reverse mirror dip if desired and save memory again.

Download a pdf copy of your owners and infotainment manual from the links in C7 General Sticky Threads. They are easily searchable and more convenient than printed manuals.

GL

Ron

 

After removing the neg battery cable, press and hold the brake pedal for ~ 1 minute. This should bleed off any residual voltage in the system.

This method will not remove voltage on items such as air bags and other systems that have a 'keep alive' voltage circuit in them (ie: capacitors and black flow diodes). In this case you will need to do the prior 'dance' and just wait 20 minutes to be safe.

 

RonC7,

Thanks for this great response.

The small black sensing wire looks good and all battery block connections look good.

When I start the car, Voltage read 13.75v and remained there, did not move, during my 20 minute drive. I also noticed that the power mirror button would not work at start up, but started working shortly during the drive.

I didn't state it before, but I bought an Interstate battery from a locally owned repair shop which did not change the behavior of the car. When researching at home, the specs on my new Interstate battery where not as high as the old AC Delco battery. I replaced the Interstate battery with an AC Delco battery from my local Chevy dealer with matching specs that the original DC Delco battery. With each battery I always get a Voltage reading of 13.75v.

I did disconnect the negative battery cable for 30 minutes and did have to reindex the windows.

I have performed the steps you provided for "Mirrors -" many times but did it again today.

RonC7, I think you've help my track the problem down to a bad Alternator/Voltage Regulator problem per my bolded state statement above. Thanks!!!

 

Tinkertech, thanks for the great response.

You provided a much easier way to bleed residual charge.

 

Vetteman Jack, thanks for moving my post. I'm getting great responses.

 

For the driver's side mirror, I've also noticed that when the mirror moves all the way to the left, I hear the mirror motor trying to move it farther. When it gives up, it moves the mirror all the way to the bottom and the mirror continues to run while trying to move it farther.

I've also noticed that the red door lock button randomly flashes on and off when I depress the stopping break pedal. I do not hear the door lock actually disengaging and engaging. The passenger side door lock button works normally.

 

RESOLVED: The driver side window switches stopped working with the driver side window down. The car is garaged but I was scheduled to drive it to my local machinic for fuel injection and intake valve cleaning on a forecasted rainy day. So, I removed the driver side door panel to find the red locking tab for the wiring harness connection backed off. Touching the connecter caused it to completely fall out. I firmly reattached the connecter and inserted the red locking tab. Now, EVERYTHING WORKS!