any videos on steering wheel clock spring removal? need to replace mine

 

I used this video as a guide since there was not a Corvette specific one I could find. Easiest way I can explain it is to remove your steering wheel first, then you have access to your clock spring - it has a large plug on the top of it. One thing to note is to make sure your steering wheel is straight before beginning the process. The important thing to note is the Steering Angle Sensor (SAS) is attached to the back of the clock spring. When I replaced my clock spring, I was able to remove the SAS that came with it (I bought used on eBay) and I used my current SAS with the new clock spring. You need to be sure you put your SAS back in the correct position with relation to your new clock spring (clock spring should be locked down to the straight ahead position when you receive it). The SAS slides into the back of the clock spring engaging with teeth or slots, which is opposite of how you pull it off to remove it.

The reason for using your existing SAS is to eliminate the need for a new SAS calibration. If you have the diagnostic tool to do it, not a huge problem - if not, it's a trip to the dealer or an inde shop to get it calibrated. Also, if you've removed your steering wheel before, you know the do's and don'ts. If not, I'd research that here bit before you begin.

I wish I would have done a video to help others out. Didn't think about it and really didn't know if what I was doing would work.

Feel free to reach out with any questions, I'm happy to help if I can.

 

I found most of this info during research and already watched that video. I appreciate the input. once I realized the clock spring was packaged not a giant spring like the old days it made much more sense.
luckily a buddy of mine is a master tech and emailed me the instructions out of the service manual so im more convinced its a diy project. looks like getting this stupid t50 Torx off the wheel is the hardest part!!

 

so I have everything needed to replace the clock spring. only issue is the dang t50 Torx bolt holding the steering wheel on!!! so far 150 psi on a 1/2" drive impact didnt budge it so I went old school 1/2 " breaker bar and broke the t50 in half! guess ill be buying a bunch of these junk Torx bits HATE THEM!!

 

I was hoping you had read some of the posts regarding using an impact gun - some have had luck, I did not which is why I mentioned it. I know it doesn't help now but here's my nightmare: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1607462238

I would try to put some heat on the bolt to help soften the thread lock if you can. Mine had started to back off slightly with the impact gun before it seized. I finally got it off with a big breaker bar pulling on it smoothly probably like you were. Good luck man, I know exactly how you feel except my clock spring got wiped out when the Torx bit broke on the impact gun. That's how I found out how to replace it

 

I read all of the posts lol. was hoping the impact would break it loose then I would back it out on a ratchet. no luck. strapped the wheel to the grab handle so it wont move and used the breaker bar. of course with so little of the Torx bit doing the actual work it snapped off. cant stand these Torx bits junk hardware. for now walked away, sick as a dog with a late winter flu and need to find some more t50 bits sat and try again

 

I hope someone trying this repair reads this before trying it. THIS IS THE SOCKET YOU ARE GOING TO NEED!!!

this Torx and a short extension and a 1/2" breaker bar was what I needed to get the bolt out. my 1/2" drive impact set at 150 psi would not break it loose! slow hard hand pressure was needed to break the nut and turn it out to the very end. even my 1/2" drive ratchet wouldn't turn it Ince I broke it loose. had to use the breaker bar at a 1/2 turn each time too get this bolt out without messing it up. already had a new bolt to go back in I suggest you get one as well. this bugger wore my arms out I had the stern g wheel strapped to the passenger grab handle to keep it from moving and still had to jam my knees into the wheel as well.

SUCCESS!! now to let my arms rest and finish this job lol.

all finished no lights and repair done with all gm parts. so in review the new bolt going in is just about as tough as the old bolt coming out so be prepared to use the breaker bar to install. gm dealer wanted 1 hr diagnoses and 3 hrs install time 400$ plus. took me less than 1 hr all in having never done it before. thats to Bill Dearborn and flattman and the others in. this forum for all the help. you can use your steering angle sensor and you wont have to recalibrate it. pops right onto the new clock spring