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Old Apr 7, 2024 | 11:33 AM
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planning a cam swap for the winter.
btr cam 38% fuel lobe, Johnson link bar lifters, btr platinum double .650 springs, .080 wall pushrods, che trunion kit, lme complete vvt delete , katech high flow oil pump. by the time I start all this I may have about 25k miles on the motor. would it be prudent to replace the crank and rod bearings " while im in there?" if the answer is yes can I use oem bearings and simply replace them or is it a more complicated process than a garage diy guy should do? with the mileage should I just leave them alone? only looking for 750-800 wheel not shooting the moon or 1200 hp.

also what is the best way to clean the piston tops and head surfaces when the motor is apart? I know green pads are a no no.

Last edited by 9sec; Apr 7, 2024 at 12:45 PM.
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Old Apr 8, 2024 | 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 9sec
planning a cam swap for the winter.
btr cam 38% fuel lobe, Johnson link bar lifters, btr platinum double .650 springs, .080 wall pushrods, che trunion kit, lme complete vvt delete , katech high flow oil pump. by the time I start all this I may have about 25k miles on the motor. would it be prudent to replace the crank and rod bearings " while im in there?" if the answer is yes can I use oem bearings and simply replace them or is it a more complicated process than a garage diy guy should do? with the mileage should I just leave them alone? only looking for 750-800 wheel not shooting the moon or 1200 hp.

also what is the best way to clean the piston tops and head surfaces when the motor is apart? I know green pads are a no no.
I could be wrong, but I don't see why you would be removing the heads to install these parts? I'm new to V8's.

Do not touch the bearings. I wouldn't clean the piston tops either. I would just clean the mating surface of the head and block with brake clean on a rag before assembly.
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Old Apr 8, 2024 | 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by spoolin98
I could be wrong, but I don't see why you would be removing the heads to install these parts? I'm new to V8's.

Do not touch the bearings. I wouldn't clean the piston tops either. I would just clean the mating surface of the head and block with brake clean on a rag before assembly.
you have to pull the heads to replace the springs and lifters.
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Old Apr 8, 2024 | 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by 9sec
you have to pull the heads to replace the springs and lifters.
New to V8s, you can’t pressurize the cylinder to hold the valve while you change them out? Or the old rope trick?
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Old Apr 8, 2024 | 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by spoolin98
New to V8s, you can’t pressurize the cylinder to hold the valve while you change them out? Or the old rope trick?
Yes you can pressurize the cylinder to change the valve springs but the lifters are under the heads so they have to come off
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Old Apr 8, 2024 | 11:49 PM
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Originally Posted by eseibel67
Yes you can pressurize the cylinder to change the valve springs but the lifters are under the heads so they have to come off
this^
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Old Apr 9, 2024 | 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by 9sec
this^
Gotcha, I'm used to 4-cylinder turbos. This is my first V8 and my first supercharger. Either way, I still wouldn't clean the piston tops or worry about the bearings. If you have metal flakes in your oil, then I would worry about the bearings. I think you have a higher chance of bearing failure if you swap them out, then just leaving them be. Lastly, I would add ARP head studs to that list if you didn't already plan for them.
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Old Apr 9, 2024 | 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by spoolin98
Gotcha, I'm used to 4-cylinder turbos. This is my first V8 and my first supercharger. Either way, I still wouldn't clean the piston tops or worry about the bearings. If you have metal flakes in your oil, then I would worry about the bearings. I think you have a higher chance of bearing failure if you swap them out, then just leaving them be. Lastly, I would add ARP head studs to that list if you didn't already plan for them.

titanium rods yield titanium dust that scores the bearings. Won’t see it in the oil but it’s there. Already have arp head bolts

Last edited by 9sec; Apr 9, 2024 at 10:13 AM.
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Old Apr 9, 2024 | 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by 9sec
titanium rods yield titanium dust that scores the bearings. Won’t see it in the oil but it’s there
Not here to argue, just sharing facts.

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Old Apr 9, 2024 | 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by spoolin98
Not here to argue, just sharing facts.
interesting. my ls9 motor from the zr1 had Ti rods so I was assuming the lt4 would as well. looks a lot like a flow formed wheel lol.. defiantly will be doing bearings now.
https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/ct...nnecting-rods/
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Old Apr 9, 2024 | 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 9sec
interesting. my ls9 motor from the zr1 had Ti rods so I was assuming the lt4 would as well. looks a lot like a flow formed wheel lol.. defiantly will be doing bearings now.
https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/ct...nnecting-rods/
I was sharing so you would see that you don't have to touch the bearings, to each their own. Enjoy your modding
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Old Apr 9, 2024 | 02:48 PM
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To your questions, at 25k miles with strong oil pressure I would leave the short block alone. With the changes you are making and depending on how you drive it, chances are you will be in there again before the bearings need work.
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Old Apr 9, 2024 | 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Factoid
To your questions, at 25k miles with strong oil pressure I would leave the short block alone. With the changes you are making and depending on how you drive it, chances are you will be in there again before the bearings need work.
1 and done on this motor hence the question. 750-800 whp is all im looking for. already had 1000 whp cars for me the sweet spot is 750-800. runs fast no issues. so cam and internals related and im done as long as the bearings are ok with the mileage . seeing these powder rods doesnt leave me with a warm fuzzy though rather see Ti or Carrillo rods was figuring the oil pan is already off popping the rods and crank out is no big deal . wasnt sure how long the bearings are good for with the added power over stock
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