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When my orig engine in my 16 Z06 seized it happened similar to that. Once the engine locked up it burnt the starter up trying to start it. Ended up replacing that as well. Hopefully yours won't be that bad.
350 AMP fuse blows out after car running 30 mintues
Originally Posted by Tinkertech
A seized engine is bad news and it doesn't always happen fast and violent.
Is your C7 stock?
If you can turn it over by hand its not seized 'tight'.
Oil and coolant levels haven't changed?
Did you have your torque tube replaced recently?
Ohm out the main power lead (Red) both connected and unconnected to the starter, removed from the battery of course. Wiggle the power cable watch the meter.
If you have a good supply of fuses, not my favorite troubleshooting method, disconnect the power lead to the starter, push the start button see if the fuse is still good. This would help you determine if the power cable is not shorting some where.
Removing the starter from the engine leaving all electrical connections attached, you will need to ground the starter. Then push the start button, if the starter spins and the fuse is still good you have eliminated, mostly, all of the starter circuit. But remember this test will not put any load on the starter so it won't be pulling a large amount of current. Also note you will need to secure the starter from twisting, it has a lot of torque when it first starts.
Or just take the removed starter to AutoZone and have it tested for free, simpler and safer.
Good luck.
Tinkertech:
I have a 2017 Corvette Stingray. I had to have my Torque Tube replaced at 14,000 miles. At 18,000 miles, my 350 AMP fuse blew out, the one on the positive battery cable. I bought replacement fuses online . (350 AMP 24 Volts, not 12 Volts. Does this matter? ) I can run the car for
30 minutes then the 350 AMP fuse blows out. I replace the 350 AMP fuse and then the car will start again after an hour. If I shut off the engine right before the 30 minutes, I can restart the engine after an hour. If I try to start the car right away, the starter struggles as if it is overheated, the engine doesn't start.
If I then wait an hour, the engine starts. I did replace the starter, too.
Can the Torque tube replacement be affecting the electrical system?
Tinkertech:
I have a 2017 Corvette Stingray. I had to have my Torque Tube replaced at 14,000 miles. At 18,000 miles, my 350 AMP fuse blew out, the one on the positive battery cable. I bought replacement fuses online . (350 AMP 24 Volts, not 12 Volts. Does this matter? ) I can run the car for
30 minutes then the 350 AMP fuse blows out. I replace the 350 AMP fuse and then the car will start again after an hour. If I shut off the engine right before the 30 minutes, I can restart the engine after an hour. If I try to start the car right away, the starter struggles as if it is overheated, the engine doesn't start.
If I then wait an hour, the engine starts. I did replace the starter, too.
Can the Torque tube replacement be affecting the electrical system?
I hate to be the bearer of bad news .... If its an A8 auto , that is the classic signs of thrust bearing failure due to improper Torque Tube installation
It will get worse ... so don't keep trying to run it
The C7 requires a specific procedure to set end play after installing the torque tube . If it's not done the torque tube pushes on the crank and burns up thrust bearing .... which locks the engine up ...
Don't drive it , take it back to your installer and question if they did the procedure because if not .....
You can't believe how many people know nothing about this procedure
No, torque tube replacement doesn't affect the electrical system. But - a bad installation can lead to a failed thrust bearing which causes starter to blow the 350 amp fuse when trying to crank the engine.
There is a published procedure for torque tube replacement on automatic transmission cars:
The Torque tube was replaced by one of the top Corvette mechanics at a Chevrolet dealership in Cleveland, Ohio. I hope he would be familiar with the proper procedure. I will check the positive wire (red wire) from the starter to the fuse box under the hood for resistance.
The Torque tube was replaced by one of the top Corvette mechanics at a Chevrolet dealership in Cleveland, Ohio. I hope he would be familiar with the proper procedure. I will check the positive wire (red wire) from the starter to the fuse box under the hood for resistance.
I know what you are saying but ..... it has all the symptoms of a thrashed thrust bearing ... could it be something else , sure .easy test would be put a breaker bar on crank and see if u can turn the motor when it won't start.... . You will have your answer
It's either a direct short on the starter cable , which can happen if the cable is not tight on starter or the load on the starter is to much .. ie thrust bearing is wiped
I know what you are saying but ..... it has all the symptoms of a thrashed thrust bearing ... could it be something else , sure .easy test would be put a breaker bar on crank and see if u can turn the motor when it won't start.... . You will have your answer
It's either a direct short on the starter cable , which can happen if the cable is not tight on starter or the load on the starter is to much .. ie thrust bearing is wiped
Dave
Hello Dave. I did find a loose connection at the starter. I idled the engine for 20 minutes. When I turned on the Heater/AC fan the engine started to sputter and then stalled. Could this be the alternator going bad? The blower motor? The IAC?
Hello Dave. I did find a loose connection at the starter. I idled the engine for 20 minutes. When I turned on the Heater/AC fan the engine started to sputter and then stalled. Could this be the alternator going bad? The blower motor? The IAC?
it could be something many things ....after it stalled did it start back up ?
You have any codes , I dont mean lights on dash , read it with a code reader and see what comes up
I doubt that a blower motor would put enought of a load on the alternator that the engine would sputter and stall
A few things you need to check are , what's the condition of your battery ..... ?
Using a voltmeter whats the output coming out of the positive terminal on the alternator, what's the voltage at the fuse box positive lug .
Did the air-conditioning compressor kick on ? Was it turning ? A locked up compressor would cause a problem but they make a lot of noise
If you keep trying to run the engine and if the thrust bearing is bad, you'll just do more damage to the engine.
But if the thrust bearing is truly bad, I'm afraid that the engine is damaged beyond repair after all the run time you put on it trying to chase down the problem.
This sounds like a badly installed TT that took out the thrust bearing locking a hot engine.
If you keep trying to run the engine and if the thrust bearing is bad, you'll just do more damage to the engine.
But if the thrust bearing is truly bad, I'm afraid that the engine is damaged beyond repair after all the run time you put on it trying to chase down the problem.
This sounds like a badly installed TT that took out the thrust bearing locking a hot engine.
@Tinkertech this is a different guy than the orginal poster asking a different question , that's why I asked probing questions
If you keep trying to run the engine and if the thrust bearing is bad, you'll just do more damage to the engine.
But if the thrust bearing is truly bad, I'm afraid that the engine is damaged beyond repair after all the run time you put on it trying to chase down the problem.
This sounds like a badly installed TT that took out the thrust bearing locking a hot engine.
I have seen that before. It might be the problem. I hope not.
Update on the car, currently getting a 416 installed with more goodies to go with it . Old motor has been pulled and the motor rotates but has resistance. Will be doing a tear down in the future to try and salvage the motor and sell or build another 416
I have seen that before. It might be the problem. I hope not.
I think turning on the heater/AC fan and having the engine stall has something to do with the negative small chassis ground wire that I broke and soldered together (when I replaced the battery). Can I just run a new wire from the negative battery terminal and ground it to the chassis somewhere?
I think turning on the heater/AC fan and having the engine stall has something to do with the negative small chassis ground wire that I broke and soldered together (when I replaced the battery). Can I just run a new wire from the negative battery terminal and ground it to the chassis somewhere?
I hate to be the bearer of bad news but breaking that wire had nothing to do with it ..... especially if you soldered it back together
If you want help , answer the few questions I posted in an earlier reply so we can narrow down the issue