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Help!!!! I'm Wondering if I can pull a bunch of ideas on troubleshooting this issue.
Driving the car on a 6 hour drive and 4 hours in the car shuts off coasts off the road and the car goes dead, no dash, no power I had to use the emergency handle to get out. Did some looking and noticed the 350 amp fuse was blown in the back. A day later I installed the new fuse, Battery, and a starter thinking that could be the source of a short. the fuse blows as soon as I try to start I get no crank hardly anything except another blown fuse but I can refuse and it stays good dash comes on and I get all power back to everything until I give it a start. Car is a 2014 c7 stingray z51, it is modded headers, A&A TI blower, cammed, e85.
Thank you in advance I hate looking at the car just sit there.
I replaced the starter already. I've been looking but I don't see any obvious signs of a short. Any ideas how to trace that out ?
Multimeter set to ohms is how to get started finding a short. Clamp one end to chassis ground, then probe that starter hot wire or any large battery lead, see if you have low resistance. It sounds intermittent, so you'll probably have to physically move some wires around while the probes are clamped and watch for the ohms to show something low.
I would check service manual to see what circuits are tied into that 350A instead of guessing though.
The starter appears to be the only load fused only by the 350 amp fuse. All other loads are powered through smaller sub fuses. From the wiring diagram attached, the starter power comes from the 350 amp fuse to the front fuse box, then the aux fuse box under the front fuse box, and to the starter. The 12 V should be hot to the starter at all times. The starter relay puts power the the starter solenoid (relay integral to the starter) when trying to crank.
I would trace the big red wire involved and see if it has a rubbed spot or bad insulation somewhere that could contact a ground when the trying to start or hitting a bump, etc.
Also consider something binding in the engine or supercharger causing excessive starter current. Spun engine bearing, supercharger pulley binding, etc. Maybe take the belt off the SC and see if things turn freely.
Thank yall for the tips, I'm going to try and spin things over by hand, if it is free ill start tracing things out! I hope its not the motor but its starting to make sense.
A seized engine is bad news and it doesn't always happen fast and violent.
Is your C7 stock?
If you can turn it over by hand its not seized 'tight'.
Oil and coolant levels haven't changed?
Did you have your torque tube replaced recently?
Ohm out the main power lead (Red) both connected and unconnected to the starter, removed from the battery of course. Wiggle the power cable watch the meter.
If you have a good supply of fuses, not my favorite troubleshooting method, disconnect the power lead to the starter, push the start button see if the fuse is still good. This would help you determine if the power cable is not shorting some where.
Removing the starter from the engine leaving all electrical connections attached, you will need to ground the starter. Then push the start button, if the starter spins and the fuse is still good you have eliminated, mostly, all of the starter circuit. But remember this test will not put any load on the starter so it won't be pulling a large amount of current. Also note you will need to secure the starter from twisting, it has a lot of torque when it first starts.
Or just take the removed starter to AutoZone and have it tested for free, simpler and safer.
No its not stock. fluids are still same level and no torque tube changes. I did get a reading from the main lead going to the fuse box, starter, and alternator, showing 1mega ohm to ground it changed a couple of times in between 10-1 mega ohms so I'm leaning towards a short somewhere I'm not sure if that's a normal reading but correct me if I'm wrong but it should be showing open like the other cables to ground correct ? I already replaced the starter and same result
Also anyone have the best way to turn the motor by hand ? the usual method with a socket or wrenches up front doesn't seem doable. I was thinking pulling plugs and jacking it up to rotate the rear tires
Also anyone have the best way to turn the motor by hand ? the usual method with a socket or wrenches up front doesn't seem doable. I was thinking pulling plugs and jacking it up to rotate the rear tires
Also anyone have the best way to turn the motor by hand ? the usual method with a socket or wrenches up front doesn't seem doable. I was thinking pulling plugs and jacking it up to rotate the rear tires
you should be able to get a socket on the Crank Bolt
No its not stock. fluids are still same level and no torque tube changes. I did get a reading from the main lead going to the fuse box, starter, and alternator, showing 1mega ohm to ground it changed a couple of times in between 10-1 mega ohms so I'm leaning towards a short somewhere I'm not sure if that's a normal reading but correct me if I'm wrong but it should be showing open like the other cables to ground correct ? I already replaced the starter and same result
What type of DVM are you using?
Going from 1 to 10 M ohms makes me think the meter needs a new battery or just a better meter.
You should not see this much of a change with out disturbing anything.
With both ends of the positive power cable disconnected, you should see infinite resistance, ie: an open to gnd. If you read any resistance at all you have a defective cable, ie: a short somewhere. Disconnected end to end the cable should read very low resistance ~ 2-5 ohms.
No its not stock. fluids are still same level and no torque tube changes. I did get a reading from the main lead going to the fuse box, starter, and alternator, showing 1mega ohm to ground it changed a couple of times in between 10-1 mega ohms so I'm leaning towards a short somewhere I'm not sure if that's a normal reading but correct me if I'm wrong but it should be showing open like the other cables to ground correct ? I already replaced the starter and same result
Low resistance 0.XXX ohms would indicate basically a direct connection. No reading at all would be the highest resistance (infinite), so example would be holding the probes in the air seperate from each other.
Low resistance between 12V+ and chassis ground means a short. You can get nerdy and measure the wire resistance and subtract out from the reading, but just normal ohms should be enough.
Update on the car. Blower is trashed, motor is still locked up. I sourced power through a power probe and it tries but wont budge. Gonna start the tear down and see what I find. Thank you everyone for the help and advice!!!
Update on the car. Blower is trashed, motor is still locked up. I sourced power through a power probe and it tries but wont budge. Gonna start the tear down and see what I find. Thank you everyone for the help and advice!!!
If you end up replacing motor make sure you have the torque tube installation procedures, install it wrong and new motor won't last 200 miles
Good luck and keep us posted , I can honestly say I know how you feel