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This weekend, I had some time to look into it and found the drivers side axle and diff side bearing look worn.
The shaft seems easy to replace, but does anyone know if you can replace the bearing without removing the whole diff? Based on the image, it looks like bearing can be accessed behind the seal and it's not inside the diff. I'm thinking since the shaft of the axle fits over the spline, there may be enough room get the bearing out. With that said, I do realize there may be some other damage inside the diff due to the failed bearing. So anyone with experience with this would love to hear from you.
I circled the bearing area in the attached image.
Last edited by hypershock; Jun 19, 2025 at 05:17 PM.
Looks normal. They all move around since you have to account for the suspension motion when driving, including when accelerating and when braking. The position of the CV joint inside the axle can affect how much movement you feel when you're just tugging on the axle from under the car.
If it's truly a bearing going bad then it's likely the wheel hub.
Thank you for the response and the image. I sure hope you're right. Great to know thats a seal. It looks like your image is not an eLSD, but I assume, its a similar set up? I agree there may be some play for the shaft to slide in and out, but the play at the shaft going into the diff doesn't seem normal? The play is there lifted or on the wheels. There is also zero play in the passenger side axle shaft (either end) - lifted or on the ground.
I don't have any play at the wheel hub. In the wheel or the shaft. Wheel spins normally with no sound.
Since the end of the shaft is hollow and slides inside the diff, do you think it rides on a bearing somewhere? Maybe just the end of the shaft is worn? Your image shows the diff bearing assembly, but I can't figure out where that is on my eLSD cutaway.
really appreciate your response as I try to run this noise down.
Last edited by hypershock; Jun 27, 2024 at 04:57 AM.
Thank you for the response and the image. I sure hope you're right. Great to know thats a seal. It looks like your image is not an eLSD, but I assume, its a similar set up? I agree there may be some play for the shaft to slide in and out, but the play at the shaft going into the diff doesn't seem normal? The play is there lifted or on the wheels. There is also zero play in the passenger side axle shaft (either end) - lifted or on the ground.
I don't have any play at the wheel hub. In the wheel or the shaft. Wheel spins normally with no sound.
Since the end of the shaft is hollow and slides inside the diff, do you think it rides on a bearing somewhere? Maybe just the end of the shaft is worn? Your image shows the diff bearing assembly, but I can't figure out where that is on my eLSD cutaway.
really appreciate your response as I try to run this noise down.
If you "DIY", it's pretty easy to pull the axle shaft and investigate a bit more, so you may consider doing that. Basically pull the axle and then see if you can still wiggle the stub shaft in the diff. If you have one of the carrier bearings going bad, the diff will need to come out.
Great video and sound. I think your initial prognosis is correct and it will be the bearing - at least. I would not drive it any further even though the damage has likely been done. Really curious to see and hear what you find after you pull the axle on that side.
Would be interested to know mileage, any mods, M7 or A8, and if the car has been tracked at all. Not the most common failure from what I've seen around the forum so interesting to know the circumstances.
I did this some years back when my rear diff failed.
RPM Wavetrac and GForce axles. when my rear diff failed the first time. I've broken it 3 times. I have a lot of power and I'm using bead locks and Hoosiers. They will dead hook.
Last edited by Thomasmoto; Jun 28, 2024 at 12:36 PM.
[QUOTE=Would be interested to know mileage, any mods, M7 or A8, and if the car has been tracked at all. Not the most common failure from what I've seen around the forum so interesting to know the circumstances.[/QUOTE]
It's a M7 with 30k on it.
Last edited by hypershock; Jun 19, 2025 at 05:19 PM.
I bought it used about 2 months ago from a dealer. It was a corporate car, is about all the history I have. Carfax revealed good maintenance and even tires at 20k. NO WAY the dealer didn't know this and unfortunaltey, I missed the noise over all the road noise. They are saying its fine- ofcourse.
I may pull the axle, but I'm almost certain that play near the diff has to be a bearing given the way the axle slides on the shaft splines insdie the diff. A lot of wishful thinking going on here. Otherwise I guess I just have to take it to the shop and pay thousands out of my pocket.
Any idea what kind of puller end I need to pull the axle? Will the standard 3 prong work?
Thanks again for any comments, thoughts, ideas or suggestions.
You don't need a puller. A good yank or two and it pops free.
I'll have to listen to your video when I get home in a couple days. On my laptop speakers, it doesn't sound like a bearing which usually "whirl" when they're bad. If they're really worn you also get a "clunk" any time the driveline slack is removed....ie braking or accelerating.
Last edited by 96GS#007; Jun 28, 2024 at 11:16 PM.
Yeah, the tone of your speakers can make the noise hard to hear. The last clip in the video with the mic behind the drivers seat is probably the most noticable.
I did this some years back when my rear diff failed.
RPM Wavetrac and GForce axles. when my rear diff failed the first time. I've broken it 3 times. I have a lot of power and I'm using bead locks and Hoosiers. They will dead hook.
Between it the axles and labor was approximately
$ 6,500.00. IIRC
Thanks - I was curious about the diff itself, no labor or axles. I need a new diff and if the warranty doesn't cover it and I need to pay out of pocket, I'm looking for alternatives which are better and less expensive for stock, and potentially doing the work myself next winter.
Thanks - I was curious about the diff itself, no labor or axles. I need a new diff and if the warranty doesn't cover it and I need to pay out of pocket, I'm looking for alternatives which are better and less expensive for stock, and potentially doing the work myself next winter.
My next step is to pull the shaft out and check. I was hoping to get more responses from folks that experienced it.
If it really is normal, I would just keep drivign it and look for the sound elsewhere?
Here is a video of the noise I have. A little long, but the last clip with the mic behind the drivers seat is the most obvious. It's at highway speeds and only when I feather the throttle on and off. Goes away at 80. Also, switching lanes quickly to the right and loading the drivers side suspension, the sounds does breifly dissapear - perhaps suggesting a wheel bearing? https://youtu.be/82vRTc3ZXpM
If you have ideas of what else it could be I would love to hear it.
were you able to rule out torque tube bearing?
another thing to try is a harbor freight noise detector stethoscope 7.00 works pretty decent if a bearing is bad you will hear it.
I finally had a chance to check mine. The car is on the ground so the suspension is loaded. I just laid on ground behind the car, reached up and grabbed the axle, and gave it some pushes and pulls. Very very little movement. I'm guessing your car is in the air, so you may want to see what it's like with it on the ground at normal ride height.
Thank you for sharing. The sound is similar so I will continue to research this thread. I can't thank you enough!!!
It so difficult to run something like this down, even with videos.
I did run the car on stands to see if I had any noise from the drivers side bearing or shaft. I was in 5th, on and off the throttle 50-60 mph. The phone mic does filter out some of the sound, but it seems normal to me? Once I pushed in the clutch near the end, I hear no noise from the shaft or a bearing. Granted, this with no weight on the suspension, but I'm desperate to try and chase this down before I take anything apart.
Do make sure to grasp the wheel at 12 & 6 with the car in the air and check the hub for play as well. Should be zero.
Does it sound the same on the passenger side? If "no" then I think the next step is to pull the axle.
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Drive axle failure ?
