A friend of mine had a lot of work done on his z06. Now it over heats on the track. What's the fix? Has anyone installed the L G. Cooling system?

 

Does the car have the M7 or A8 transmission? What does a lot of work mean? What tracks does it overheat on? Is it going into limp-home mode or suffering from a power reduction? What are the coolant and oil temps when this overheating occurs?

Bill

 

. i'll have to get some of that information from him. It does go in limp mode. He is on the track here in Ohio. Called mid, Ohio. I know it's got a bigger Magnuson. Supercharger, a cam, different heads, full exhaust system. K tech done all the work up in Michigan.

 

Has KTech been informed of the problem? If so, what did they say?

 

i'm having lunch with the guy tomorrow.I'll try to get a little bit more details on this.From him

 

Interested in this too since Katech did the work. From what I understand they are very knowledgeable and should be able to make a solid recommendation.

I'm also curious about the LS cooling kit in the top thread as well.

 

It may, but which component/fluid specifically is overheating? There are several.

Those cars need additional cooling in stock configuration, so a modded one will be even more susceptible with a fast driver.

 

Short answer: maybe. You need to provide a lot more detail.

 

Our cooling kit will absolutely solve his issues. We have numerous Magnuson 2650R customers tracking with no issues.

 

@Dane@LGmotorsports nice looking car. Can share data to provide context? Before/after coolers installed. Oil & water temps and duration of time on track. Thanks

 

I'm the one that Ryder2020 is talking about.
Below are details:
Overheating on track - car goes into "REDUCED POWER MODE" (not 100% sure, but think oil temp went to around 240 degrees) (not sure what coolant temp was) I don't know if there's a difference between "Limp Mode & Reduced Power Mode? Dash has never said "Limp Mode"
First time that it happened was about 2 years ago, and I got off the track, and let it cool down for about 20 min, went back out for 1 session, and it went into reduced power, I think in first lap, and check engine light was also on, drove home.
Few days later, took car to Corvette Care in Columbus, Ohio, and they found that an O2 sensor had broken out, so they felt the fuel mixture was off, and caused overheating, and was just hanging from a wire, so they replaced the O2, check engine light went away, and was hoping that problem was solved. I assume that they checked out the coolant/radiator for problems, but not sure.

I didn't go back to track until Aug. this year, and only got in about 3 laps and it went into reduced power mode again. I went home.

I contacted Katech, and they recommended the LG Motorsports Track Cooling Package. Below is response from Katech:
________________________________________ ________________________________________ ________________________________________ ___________________Tom,
KATECH RESPONSE:
We have not personally installed one of the LG kits here. I’m not sure what install time looks like. LG does a pretty good job at engineering and sending a complete kit.

There are a few factors to consider when it comes to C7 cooling systems. Adding power adds heat. The 2650 is MUCH more efficient that the OEM supercharger and will add less heat to the cooling system than the OEM supercharger will. Driver skill also comes into play. The better you are as a drive the harder the car will be pushed which taxes the cooling system harder. Lastly climate has a large effect. Tracking the car in 90 degree weather is much harder on the cooling system than 70 degree weather.



Basically, At your skill level in hot weather the cooling system just isn’t keeping up.
________________________________________ ________________________________________ ________________________________________ ________________________________________ _____________________________________
I contacted LG Motorsports and talked to Dane, and he said it would solve the problem, but has no installations/dealers anywhere near me, but said I could ship car to them, but I'm really hoping to find somewhere local that can do it.
LG cooling package is $3,595.95 + install $4,000.00 + shipping from Ohio to Texas and backEliminate your C7 Z06 over heating issues on track with LG Motorsports Super Cool Track Package

• Solve your on track cooling issues
• Fits any C7 Z06 auto or manual
• Carbon vents - Made in-house
• Bolt on install - No computer programming required
• Works with all aero levels
• Addresses engine water, engine oil, transmission, and supercharger coolant temps
• Fits manual or automatic transmission

________________________________________ ________________________________________ ________________________________________ ________________________________________ _____________________________________
GM Modifications: Auxilary Radiator - offered to people that track their C7 Z06
________________________________________ ________________________________________ ________________________________________ ________________________________________ ______________________________________
Katech Modifications: Stage 5 Package - Magnuson 2650R Supercharger, 2650 specific supercharger camshaft, 2650 specific supercharger pulley, 103mm Throttlebody, Halltech cold air intake, 160 degree thermostat, Kooks 2" Longtube headers, Kooks Catless X pipe
(many other things listed in Stage 5 Package, but those are the basics)
________________________________________ ________________________________________ ____________________________________
Hoping to find out that others have had Overheating issues resolved by installing the LG Track Cooling Package.
Hoping to find a shop fairly close that has done one, or is willing to do one. (I found local shop that is willing, but since they hadn't done one, they said they would quote 30 hours to do what LG would do in 20 hours, so $4,798.00 to install locally vs $4,000.00 from LG, but wouldn't have to pay to ship it, so cheaper?
________________________________________ ________________________________________ ___________________________________-

Thanks to all that might offer opinion or advise

 

this is the actual owners post of the car in question. If anybody could respond to his post would be great.

 

Hey, Bill Dearborn, Stika, CPB, BrunoTheMellow,

I have provided, I think, the additional information that you all asked for, or at least as much as I know, and now nothing but crickets! Any suggestions?

REDUCED POWER MODE - that is the problem - (People have asked if it's Reduced Power Mode or Limp Mode) I've never seen the gauge screen say "LIMP MODE"

Does anybody know the difference between Reduced Power Mode & Limp Mode? Is there a difference between Reduced Power Mode & Limp Mode?
If there's no difference between the two, why do so many people keep saying limp mode, since the terminology that my Chevy Z06 uses on the gauge display, is REDUCED POWER MODE?
Is there actually a such a thing as LIMP MODE on a 2015 C7 Z06?

Manual Transmission
I listed GM modifications - Auxilary Radiator
I listed Katech modifications
I listed first time reduced power mode with check engine light on. (check engine light was caused by O2 sensor problem)
I listed 2nd time reduced power mode - (no check engine light accompanied it)
Track - Mid Ohio
Response from Katech

Does anyone know if they can plug in with a scanner or something, and read what caused the Reduced Power Mode to activate, even though there was no check engine light on?

One last thought that has bothered me for many years: Why do we all call it a Z OH SIX, when it is actually a Z ZERO SIX?

 

I didn’t read everything, but I saw “cooling,” “LG,” and “C7Z,” so I figured I’d share what I’ve been doing with my C7Z time attack car over the past two years. This approach has worked well for me. The LG cooling kit is an excellent solution for addressing heat management issues. Katech should be able to handle the installation unless they're uncomfortable with cutting the front bumper. I can understand that. If that’s the case, consider buying a spare bumper to practice on or ensure them that you understand, they could potentially ruin a cover and need a replacement. I installed mine in my garage two years ago, and while I was initially stressed and read everything I could find, the process went smoothly once I started. The only issue I encountered was a small pinhole in one of the coolers, which LG promptly replaced. The most challenging part is modifying the front bumper. Precision is key, so take your time and make incremental cuts until it fits perfectly. The kit essentially adds supercharger heat exchanger coolers on each side while removing the center section. If you’re focused on competitive use or optimizing lap times, adding proper fender venting is highly beneficial. While the vents improve cooling, the main advantage is reducing the massive air pressure that builds up in the fenders with the LG kit. This pressure creates significant drag, and the vents help release it, channeling the air over the top of the car instead of underneath or creating dirty air along bottom and sides. If the LG kit isn’t an option, there are other effective upgrades to consider. For M7 models, you can swap in a radiator from a 2018 or 2019 automatic model. Most importantly, invest in a Race Louvers hood vent and remove the factory radiator duct that seals to the hood. While the duct’s design seems promising in theory, it doesn’t perform well for track use. Even with the Magnuson 2650, ensure the cooling system is properly bled. In the supercharger coolant system, I recommend using a mix of 0 to 20% Dexcool, 80 to 100% water, and half a bottle of Redline Water Wetter. For the engine, drain the factory coolant and run water with Water Wetter. If freezing is a concern, adjust to a min % Dexcool mix to meet temps. These steps alone address many heat issues. Additional cooling performance can be achieved by adding Race Louvers' additional side hood and fender vents, even if you don’t use the LG kit. These enhancements provide significant gains beyond just the big central vent which I consider mandatory.

If you have the fuel system for ethanol or ethanol mix to at least 35% that alone will drop oil temps significantly! Finally, ensure the top plastic piece in the front bumper is in place—it acts as a bumper support or something like that but its main purpose is sealing air to force theough the rad. Without it, the car is prone to overheating on the track. Some remove it for weight reason. Seal all areas around the radiator to force air through it, preventing airflow from escaping around the sides. The factory method it fine just make sure it's all there. Proper sealing is crucial to managing the high-pressure airflow in this area and maximizing cooling efficiency.

Here are a few videos of my car to help you visualize. The first one is a bit cheesy but gives a good look at the car. It runs between 630 to 740 wheel horsepower, depending on the class or series I’m racing in. The second video is just a fun, wild ride at Buttonwillow CW13—definitely worth a watch! Let me know if you need any clarification. Worst case I can handle the installation at my shop in southern utah. I'd suspect you can find someone local. Maybe combo of a body shop and katech.

 

C7 DWNFRCE - Thanks so much for your info. and videos, very informative!

Katech responded that they would install the LG System, so that's nice, but still hoping to do it closer to home, but they would be my pick if closer. Still might end up there. I enjoyed both videos!

I don't get to track car very often, so I just want to be able to complete a full track day, and keep it running right.

 

You mentioned 240 degrees on the oil temperature. I'll be at 240-260 degrees on oil without "Reduced Power."
Can you let us know the water and transmission fluid temperature?

 

CPB, I wish I knew what the coolant and transmission temps were, but I don't. I should have checked them all, and noted what they were.

I am going to go ahead with the LG Cooling System. I figure it that it's got to help, and hopefully cure the problem.
thanks

 

If you recorded any of the laps using the PDR, all the temp info is there. You can see it at a high level using the GM Cosworth Toolbox or you can see much more granular information via Pi Toolbox, also from Cosworth.

240* oil temp is nothing. I think I'd want to know more about the other temps before throwing $10k at the car. I'd also look at oil pressure, particularly if you were getting an "Upshift Now" light.

 

Unfortunately, I didn't turn on the PDR on my most recent track day, which consisted of aprox 2 - 3 laps, but I did have the PDR on the previous trip to the track, but don't know anything about GM Cosworth Toolbox or Pi Toolbox. What is that? I sure would be beneficial to see all the temps
I did look at the PDR Video, but saw nothing.
Thanks,

 

Cosworth and Pi Toolbox are both software.