Brake master cylinder
I am going to flush the system with new fluid soon.
Last edited by kodpkd; Jun 10, 2025 at 04:41 PM.
If you did, you might have damaged the piston seals inside the cylinder.
This event usually happens when there is corrosion or pitting that develops at the far end of the cylinder and then the piston seals travel over this damaged area, when you pump the brake pedal, to the very end of its stroke and the seals run over this damaged area destroying the seals ability to function properly.
Sorry for the 'wording' of this explanation, way too early in the morning for me. But I'm sure you get the idea. Thats why it's best to use a pressurized or vacuum bleeding system.
On the topic of pushing the master cylinder rod in to far. If the bore of your master cylinder is rusted, don't bother bleeding the brakes, just replace the master. I've remover the master on a 68 Corvette and the bore wasn't rusted. Not pushing the piston in to far on a master is one of those "old wives tales".
Last edited by kodpkd; Jun 11, 2025 at 11:42 AM.
Mainly were talking about corrasion in this area due to moisture in the brake fluid. it just takes a little to cause pitting in this area and that rough area will cause excessive wear on the piston 'O' rings causing them to leak. That's why it's always best to use a pressure or vacuum bleeding system when you bleed your brakes.
They even make small hones to smooth out damaged MC bores just for this reason. I've used them many times over the years. The older cast iron MC's were especially bad in developing rust / corrasion damage in this area but the newer aluminum MC's not so much.
Installed the MC, my pedal feels better now. I used the Motive bleeder to bench bleed the MC, very easy.
Last edited by kodpkd; Apr 18, 2026 at 12:57 PM.











