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Brian tooley racing will have everything you need. would recommend Johnson link bar lifters over any ls7 style or caddy lifter. eliminates the lifter trays which can allow the lifter to rotate in the tray destroying the lifter and cam.
che trunnions are always quality.
arp head bolts do the job for half the cost of arp studs. if your doing all this may as well cam it and get more fuel and more lift/duration
Thanks for the heads-up. funny enough I sent a message to Brian in the mean time. Jonhson seems out of stock or decommissioned so here's my list for now, I hope I didn't miss anything:
- Trunnions kit: Comp Cams 13702-KIT or BTR TK001 or TK001NB which diff?
- Comp Cams 850-16 Hyd Roller Lifters (are they shorter than stock / can I use them with stock cam?)
- Keep original GM lifter tray? Compatible with the Comp Cams lifters?
- ARP head bolt kit 234-3710
- Head gasket GM 12659260 (seems 12688943 is also a fit)
- Fuel pump gasket 12623308
- Both high pressure fuel lines (those inside the valley between fuel pump and fuel rails)
- Valve cover gasket (2) 12619787
- Intake manifold gasket (8) 12626354
- MAF 23262344
Last edited by mjollnir51; Jun 1, 2025 at 06:05 AM.
Thanks for the heads-up. funny enough I sent a message to Brian in the mean time. Jonhson seems out of stock or decommissioned so here's my list for now, I hope I didn't miss anything:
- Trunnions kit: Comp Cams 13702-KIT or BTR TK001 or TK001NB which diff?
- Comp Cams 850-16 Hyd Roller Lifters (are they shorter than stock / can I use them with stock cam?)
- Keep original GM lifter tray? Compatible with the Comp Cams lifters?
- ARP head bolt kit 234-3710
- Head gasket GM 12659260 (not sure this is OK for DOD disable or 12688943 would be better?)
- Fuel pump gasket 12623308
- Both high pressure fuel lines (those inside the valley between fuel pump and fuel rails)
I would talk to btr first. they can outfit you with a complete kit with everything you will need.
if not then talk to gwatney performance in Arkansas use only oem lifter trays if you aren't going link bar. anything else is prone to fail.
The stock cam has different lift on the DOD lobes vs the other lobes.
Thanks for pointing that out. That was on my checklist before ordering, all lifters I found are 0.30" and I suspected that was shorter than stock.
I want to retain stock lift height (and would not change cam for now unless it's scorched)
I just want to have better trunions than original, what are my options? Just replace with GM trunions kit if that even exist?
There's quite a lot to figure out. I just want reliability and not really looking for performance upgrade for now. But if I have to swap cam, why not.. I'm already kind of deep in the engine if I swap lifters..
Last edited by mjollnir51; May 30, 2025 at 04:14 PM.
Thanks for pointing that out. That was on my checklist before ordering, all lifters I found are 0.30" and I suspected that was shorter than stock.
I want to retain stock lift height (and would not change cam for now unless it's scorched)
I just want to have better trunions than original, what are my options? Just replace with GM trunions kit if that even exist?
There's quite a lot to figure out. I just want reliability and not really looking for performance upgrade for now. But if I have to swap cam, why not.. I'm already kind of deep in the engine if I swap lifters..
che trunion kit is a decent price and high quality. you dump all the needle bearings out of the oem rocker in stall the trunion kit
when your doing lifters springs etc EVERYTHING has to be measured from lifter height to pushrod length and cam degree if you go that route. you can run a 38 % more fuel cam lobe and still have stock like reliability and virtually no cam chop in a stage 1 btr cam. single bolt cam full vvt delete allows for proper cam degree . your tearing the top end out just to do lifters so buy once cry once especially if your not in the USA where parts are easy and plentiful to get
Thanks for pointing that out. That was on my checklist before ordering, all lifters I found are 0.30" and I suspected that was shorter than stock.
I want to retain stock lift height (and would not change cam for now unless it's scorched)
I just want to have better trunions than original, what are my options? Just replace with GM trunions kit if that even exist?
There's quite a lot to figure out. I just want reliability and not really looking for performance upgrade for now. But if I have to swap cam, why not.. I'm already kind of deep in the engine if I swap lifters..
Upgraded trunions are all aftermarket. Unless you plan to beat the daylights out of the engine, stock is fine.
DoD / AFM you can program out but you'll still have the lifters. Gotta swap the cam.
The stock cam has different lift on the DOD lobes vs the other lobes.
That is correct and also the timing is slightly different and the opening/closing ramps are a bit different.
However, from what I understood the differences DOD lobes / non DOD lobes are so small, that I can't imagine that it really makes a difference that you can feel.
However, I might have missed something here.
There are places that make a non-dod cam with the same specs as the stock cam, Scoggins Dickey is one place. If you use one of those you can use GM lifters and pushrods and not have to worry about any geometry issues. Plus they sell the whole kit and have good tech advice as well.
You don't have to buy a replacement VLOM cover, there are places that sell a block off piece that installs in the oil port on top of the VLOM and blocks all oil to the solenoids. $30. You then also use the 8 plugs in the kit to seal up the oil towers on the block that go to the afm/dod lifters.
Just thinking out loud, I wonder if someone could design and build a lifter that was just the same height as an AFM lifter that was not engaged in the AFM mode, and you could just drop in this new lifter replacing the all the AFM lifters. This would not require the replacement of the cam, a lot easier operation.
Since this new lifter would be the same length as a locked AFM lifter would it not then just act the same as when the AFM is not engaged with the benefit of never having any of the issues of the collapsible stock AFM lifter? And the engine would run just as it does when the AFM is not engaged.
There are places that make a non-dod cam with the same specs as the stock cam, Scoggins Dickey is one place. If you use one of those you can use GM lifters and pushrods and not have to worry about any geometry issues. Plus they sell the whole kit and have good tech advice as well.
You don't have to buy a replacement VLOM cover, there are places that sell a block off piece that installs in the oil port on top of the VLOM and blocks all oil to the solenoids. $30. You then also use the 8 plugs in the kit to seal up the oil towers on the block that go to the afm/dod lifters.
Even though the specs are the same I'm assuming you'd need to a tune to be able to incorporate these changes?
Just thinking out loud, I wonder if someone could design and build a lifter that was just the same height as an AFM lifter that was not engaged in the AFM mode, and you could just drop in this new lifter replacing the all the AFM lifters. This would not require the replacement of the cam, a lot easier operation.
Since this new lifter would be the same length as a locked AFM lifter would it not then just act the same as when the AFM is not engaged with the benefit of never having any of the issues of the collapsible stock AFM lifter? And the engine would run just as it does when the AFM is not engaged.
Thoughts...............
With that approach you would delete the DOD function, but you still would have a very heavy lifter to be controlled by the valve spring and ultimately you would not be better off than just disable the DOD in the tune.
when your doing lifters springs etc EVERYTHING has to be measured from lifter height to pushrod length and cam degree if you go that route. ....
Why is that ?
I assume the geometry of the valve train is the same on the DOD and non DOD cylinders (other than the cam nose, the lifter and the pushrod) ?
If the geometry is the same (other than the parts mentioned above), you would just need the hardware for non DOD cylinders and everything should fit (still I would measure everything) .
There are places that make a non-dod cam with the same specs as the stock cam, Scoggins Dickey is one place. If you use one of those you can use GM lifters and pushrods and not have to worry about any geometry issues. Plus they sell the whole kit and have good tech advice as well.
You don't have to buy a replacement VLOM cover, there are places that sell a block off piece that installs in the oil port on top of the VLOM and blocks all oil to the solenoids. $30. You then also use the 8 plugs in the kit to seal up the oil towers on the block that go to the afm/dod lifters.
Man, exactly what I needed ty!! SKU: LTAFMD62. Contacting them right now
You don't have to buy a replacement VLOM cover, there are places that sell a block off piece that installs in the oil port on top of the VLOM and blocks all oil to the solenoids. $30. You then also use the 8 plugs in the kit to seal up the oil towers on the block that go to the afm/dod lifters.
I believe you talk about that part shown at 30:04 in this video
Isn't it redundant job tho? If I block the solenoids with the 8 plugs in the kit why is that part needed?