C7 Stingray suspension upgrade
I've had a 2014 Z51 2LT 7 manual coupe for two years & am now considering a 2019 Stingray 2LT 8 auto Convertible. It's already had upgrades including mag ride, 20/21 wheels, exhaust, PDR & is in beautiful condition. However, there is a significant difference between the ride of the Stingray & the Z51. I have no intention of getting it on a track so in many respects the softer ride of the Stingray suits our British roads! However, it lacks a bit of rigidity & firmness in the corners. Will a sway bar upgrade solve this while maintain the softer ride overall & if so, what recommendations would you make?
All suggestions & comments welcome.
Rob
C7 base Stingray
Front - 26.2mm (hollow, 7.85 lbs)
Rear - N/A
Rubber bushings
C7 base Z51 ($300)
Front - 28mm (hollow, 7.95 lbs)
Rear - 26.5mm (hollow, 6.9 lbs)
Polyurethane bushings
C7 Z51 w/MRC ($300)
Front - 28mm (hollow, 7.95 lbs)
Rear (Z51 w/MRC) - 31mm (hollow, ? lbs)
Polyurethane bushings
Hotchkis ($400)
Front - 32mm (hollow & fixed, 9.2 lbs) +35% stiffer vs. all Z51
Rear - 33mm (hollow & 3-way adjustable, 9.0 lbs) +20-70% stiffer vs Z51 w/MRC
Polyurethane bushings (reuses stock brackets)
Reuses stock end-links
aFe PFADT ($732)
Front - 35mm (hollow & 2-way adjustable) +??% stiffer vs. all Z51
Rear - 32mm (hollow & 3-way adjustable) +??% stiffer vs. Z51 w/MRC
Polyurethane bushings & CNC brackets
Includes heavy-duty end-links
LG Motorsports ($750)
Front - 35.6mm (hollow & 2-way adjustable)
Rear - 38.1mm (hollow & fixed)
+45% stiffer vs. Z51 w/MRC (for the set)
Polyurethane bushings (reuses stock brackets)
Reuses stock end-links
Optional heavy-duty end-links (+$245)
Chevy Performance T1 ($600)
Front - ??mm (hollow & fixed, ? lbs, +40% stiffer vs. all Z51)
Rear (same as Z51 w/MRC) - 31mm (hollow & fixed, ? lbs, +20% stiffer vs. base Z51)
Polyurethane bushings
Reuses stock end-links
I use the Z51 w/ MRC to get the thicker rear bar.
C7 base Stingray
Front - 26.2mm (hollow, 7.85 lbs)
Rear - N/A
Rubber bushings
C7 base Z51 ($300)
Front - 28mm (hollow, 7.95 lbs)
Rear - 26.5mm (hollow, 6.9 lbs)
Polyurethane bushings
C7 Z51 w/MRC ($300)
Front - 28mm (hollow, 7.95 lbs)
Rear (Z51 w/MRC) - 31mm (hollow, ? lbs)
Polyurethane bushings
Hotchkis ($400)
Front - 32mm (hollow & fixed, 9.2 lbs) +35% stiffer vs. all Z51
Rear - 33mm (hollow & 3-way adjustable, 9.0 lbs) +20-70% stiffer vs Z51 w/MRC
Polyurethane bushings (reuses stock brackets)
Reuses stock end-links
aFe PFADT ($732)
Front - 35mm (hollow & 2-way adjustable) +??% stiffer vs. all Z51
Rear - 32mm (hollow & 3-way adjustable) +??% stiffer vs. Z51 w/MRC
Polyurethane bushings & CNC brackets
Includes heavy-duty end-links
LG Motorsports ($750)
Front - 35.6mm (hollow & 2-way adjustable)
Rear - 38.1mm (hollow & fixed)
+45% stiffer vs. Z51 w/MRC (for the set)
Polyurethane bushings (reuses stock brackets)
Reuses stock end-links
Optional heavy-duty end-links (+$245)
Chevy Performance T1 ($600)
Front - ??mm (hollow & fixed, ? lbs, +40% stiffer vs. all Z51)
Rear (same as Z51 w/MRC) - 31mm (hollow & fixed, ? lbs, +20% stiffer vs. base Z51)
Polyurethane bushings
Reuses stock end-links
I use the Z51 w/ MRC to get the thicker rear bar.
I get the shock bolts out top and bottom but then you can't get the shock to come out between the control arms because the gas pressure extend it to full length.
So I work it to a slightly different position, get one end of the tool hooked, compress it by hand to get the other end hooked. Looks like this and now it is short enough to get out of the car.
Note the top of the tool is it's original long configuration. Not long after I took this pic, that end was shortened as in the first pic. I put Z51 bars on first on my 19 Stingray which really reduced body roll. But the rear of the car still had a float I didn't like. It happened on an interstate type road at 65-70 when there was a bridge in the middle of a curve and they never get the road surface to perfectly match the bridge. The shocks took care of that.
I get the shock bolts out top and bottom but then you can't get the shock to come out between the control arms because the gas pressure extend it to full length.
So I work it to a slightly different position, get one end of the tool hooked, compress it by hand to get the other end hooked. Looks like this and now it is short enough to get out of the car.
Note the top of the tool is it's original long configuration. Not long after I took this pic, that end was shortened as in the first pic. I put Z51 bars on first on my 19 Stingray which really reduced body roll. But the rear of the car still had a float I didn't like. It happened on an interstate type road at 65-70 when there was a bridge in the middle of a curve and they never get the road surface to perfectly match the bridge. The shocks took care of that.








