I didn’t plan to make more mods but, the dreaded DOD/AFM got me. Yep, P0300, miscellaneous misfires. Checked the log, misfire history on cylinders 1,4,6 and 7. SOB

So I’m in need of some serious technical feedback on airflow.

Gen V LT 1 with all the usual bolt-ons. aFe CAI, Soler 92mm TB, Soler TC, TSP LT headers, Corsa X-pipe, Corsa Xtreme CatBack, and of course a proper Dyno and road tune.

I will NOT replace the DOD/AFM lifters…heads have to come off, may as well do the right thing and Cam the bitch! Not interested in an upgraded stall converter at this time, so I’m going with the BTR 220. I’ve been told I could run a 225, but that it would be hell at stop lights.

So here’s the planned build, -BTR GEN V 220LT CAMSHAFT 32% fuel lobe/4* Cam Phaser Limiter -Dual Valve Spring Kit w/Titanium Retainers, Seals, Seats, Locks -7.825" Chromoly Pushrods, .080" Wall -11547372 Crankshaft Balancer Bolt -12633123 Cam Bolt -5456 Comp Cam Phaser Limiter Kit -4* Cam Phaser Limiter GEN V DOD / AFM DELETE KIT -CBI Streetcars Gen IV/V DOD Oil Block Off, Set of 8 -ARP PRO SERIES HEAD BOLT KIT FOR GEN V LT1 ENGINES ARP-234-3710 -Chevrolet Performance Gen V LT1 Head Gasket 12688943 -Chevrolet Performance Gen V LT1 Exhaust Manifold Gaskets -Chevrolet Performance LS7 Lifters 12499225 -4 x Chevrolet Performance Lifter Tray LS2 and Newer 12595365 Brian Tooley Racing LT1/LT4 Fuel Pump Stud Kit AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs Z06/ZL1) 5W30 Full Synthetic oil and filter (Wix or GM) change, coolant, for cam/heads CHE Trunion kit TSP Timing Chain tensioner.

Still on the fence to put in a Mullins oil pump, but my tuner says I don’t need it.

Here’s the big question…do I just go with a 45 degree valve cut and lapping OR go with a 3 angle job, lapping and back cut on the intake valves?

Please help me spend or save money on this build. I might do track days on road courses (over 2 dozen track days under my belt, plus the Spring Mountain 2 day owners school. I’m not going to try to go to the strip, but I do want the best performance for a street hooligan without going for a 225 or 230 cam, as indicated I wouldn’t go there without a stall…and I realize the shortcomings of the OEM cast, but I want to keep this build modest.

 

Pretty much everything you have listed is typical and you're basically doing a mild street build.

You have nothing to gain by getting fancy on the valves. Clean them up with a basic valve job. If you do want to get fancy, have some money to burn, and lighten the valve train...buy GM LT4 intake valves. Super light, excellent valves. Generally about $140ea. Don't forget the caps





Not sure I'd bother with a stud kit for the fuel pump.

Since you're locking out the cam phaser it seems you want to get rid of VVT. The lockout is cheap and effective. If you want to save weight, get rid of complexity, and add bling, then go with a modified LS3 cam gear and a from cover from LME. In the pic below you can see my timing chain tensioner from Katech as well (blue plastic piece). Works just fine and is inexpensive.





I'd replace the timing chain with a genuine C5R timing chain from Katech (not a knock-off from CompCams).

You can reuse the VLOM cover or add bling / reduce weight. I used a cover from Harding Performance



For reliability, think about an ATI balancer




I have a new LT1 GM oil pump. Some guys like the LT4 pump. Katech sells a nice modified pump.

I personally like Johnson lifters but the LS7 lifters are certainly lower cost. I'd mic them all and check clearances before installing them.

You need to measure for new pushrods, not just buy them and slap them in there.

We used to run at Autobahn Country Club in Joliet and Gateway International (or whatever it's called now) in St. Louis when I lived up that way.