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I have a 2016 LT3 Stingray with 19,000 miles. While one vacation I started run rough and then stop and wouldn’t start back up. After I got it back to my dealer, they determined that I had a broken lifter spring. They are pretty certain I don’t have any metal in the engine. My question to the group is what do I do to ensure my other lifter springs are ok. Does this particular spring breaking cause any damage to anything else related to that lifter or any other lifters?
I mean I'd have them look at the whole upper valve train basically take the top end apart (I assume they did to replace the spring). If they said everything else looks good after that, I'd be satisfied. Parts fail, and just because one part failed doesn't mean the others are bad. But visual inspection is always good anyway.
As a precaution while you are in there you can just replace everything, really its about cost, parts are usually cheap, labor isn't. If you're inside an engine, and you have the cash, just replace everything.
Welcome to the forum. Sorry for the issue you are having. Have you heard about disabling the 4 cylinder mode. It is supposed to prevent the issue. There are a few ways people do this. Google it. Most people use the AFM disabler, that plugs into the OBD plug. One is the Range device. There are two ways to do it mechanically. Replace all the top end stuff, kind of expensive, or do the VLOM mod by CrazedPerformanceRepair, not that expensive. Good luck.
only way to know this doesnt repeat is replace the oem weak lifters with ls7 style and do a dod delete. sadly this isnt cheap but ensures your failure is a 1 time deal
Only a small fraction of C7 Corvette Stingrays equipped with manual transmissions experience AFM-related engine problems. The majority of documented Active Fuel Management (AFM) failures—particularly lifter collapse, valve spring breakage, and oil consumption—occur in automatic models rather than manuals.
I believe that the A8's have more issues than a M7 is due to the fact that an A8 is always going from V8 to V4 and back constantly. Every time it switches there is a chance it will fail due to a mis-timing event with the AFM lifters locking pins. (per GM video).
This is why you should tune out the AFM using a Diablo I3 or Range to keep it from switching from V8 to V4 and back. Fewer times it switches, less times it can fail.
Not a cure all, for you still have the not so good AFM lifters in the engine.
I have a 2007 5.3L with automatic in an Avalanche. Even if you use an disabler the lifters can still collapse causing the same issue. What I found if I start it up and the lifter is “ticking” I turn it off and start it again. Usually the noise goes away. If you use the AFM as designed the lifters expand and collapse as intended. I find this is actually better than the disabler. Most importantly change your oil and filter with good quality oil like Mobile 1 and oil filter with anti drain back valve. Wix 57060XP
yes the XP filter as they have synthetic media inside to work best with synthetic oil.
I mean I'd have them look at the whole upper valve train basically take the top end apart (I assume they did to replace the spring). If they said everything else looks good after that, I'd be satisfied. Parts fail, and just because one part failed doesn't mean the others are bad. But visual inspection is always good anyway.
As a precaution while you are in there you can just replace everything, really its about cost, parts are usually cheap, labor isn't. If you're inside an engine, and you have the cash, just replace everything.
If you are going that route since he already has the lifter out, maybe change everything to a non-DOD cam and call it good? If I were to make up my mind to keep the car for ever or at least another 20 years I would definitely have done it already.
Drop it off at Late model racecraft. Get a mild cam, standard lifters, have them tune out all that tech savy stuff. And yes it’s going to cost some dollars. Probably well worth it. Get a 3200 stall converter while you’re there.
GM has had an occasional bad batch of valve springs.........probably should replace them all to be safe.
Failures of the DOD system are an unrelated problem. The fix is to not use/disable DOD.......
I think the fix is to remove the weak link. The DOD cam and lifters. Since I am replacing the lifter, how much more work is involved with doing a cam swap?
TBH, if I was seeing a long term future with the C7, I'd have already done it. That said, if my lifter fails tomorrow, one of 2 things will happen. Either I fix that lifter and sell it or I replace the cam.
I think the fix is to remove the weak link. The DOD cam and lifters. Since I am replacing the lifter, how much more work is involved with doing a cam swap?
TBH, if I was seeing a long term future with the C7, I'd have already done it. That said, if my lifter fails tomorrow, one of 2 things will happen. Either I fix that lifter and sell it or I replace the cam.
That's what I did when my C6 oil pump failed (common on Gen 3 and 4 SBCs). It was rebuild the engine as a monster or swap the pump and sell. I sold.
That's what I did when my C6 oil pump failed (common on Gen 3 and 4 SBCs). It was rebuild the engine as a monster or swap the pump and sell. I sold.
It's old so get something newer is my philosophy. Unless you can't financially justify it, might as well upgrade. Assuming I can afford to upgrade it, if I drive it 100 miles a year, it won't make sense to upgrade so I will have to tough it out. OTOH, if I out say 10k a year, it is more justifiable to upgrade.
It's old so get something newer is my philosophy. Unless you can't financially justify it, might as well upgrade. Assuming I can afford to upgrade it, if I drive it 100 miles a year, it won't make sense to upgrade so I will have to tough it out. OTOH, if I out say 10k a year, it is more justifiable to upgrade.
That's not so easy if you like the C7 and don't like the C8.
We are now at 8 years/65k miles, no major problems yet but they will appear some time.
If I want to stay with a C7, my choices will be to keep fixing this one or try to find a low miles 2019.
Or get a lobotomy so I don't mind the ugliness/cramped interior/etc of the C8.
I'm getting too old to switch to another type.
Oh if my C7 is ever destroyed beyond repair or I decide it isn't worth the money to fix it, I'll sell it. And sadly at that point I'll have to buy a Mustang GT Manual. Cause I'm not getting a C8 without a stick shift, unless I magically can afford a C8 Z06 (I'll deal with the flappy paddles in that case), and that is unlikely as the way I want it configured its $175k.