ARP balancer bolt
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 3,807
Likes: 1,290
From: nashville TN
I literally just went thru this . according to ati (I used a superdamper) you use red locktite on the threads. according to arp you use the superlube under the head and washer and on the threads.
in the end I couldn't stand the thought of that very large bolt backing out and the amount of damage to hood crank snout damper and any accessories that get in the way of a 10 lb rotating object bouncing around the engine bay.
I lubed the head and washer per arp and red locktite to the threads. my thought process was since it was a wet torque the red locktite should get me accurate torque. 165 ft/lbs for arp not the stretch value torque for the oem bolt. I say nice things to the bolt everyday in hopes it stays in place
in the end I couldn't stand the thought of that very large bolt backing out and the amount of damage to hood crank snout damper and any accessories that get in the way of a 10 lb rotating object bouncing around the engine bay.
I lubed the head and washer per arp and red locktite to the threads. my thought process was since it was a wet torque the red locktite should get me accurate torque. 165 ft/lbs for arp not the stretch value torque for the oem bolt. I say nice things to the bolt everyday in hopes it stays in place
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2023
Posts: 159
Likes: 10
All I can find is this chart:
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 3,807
Likes: 1,290
From: nashville TN
yes the arp instructions want you to lube the threads. I simply wasnt comfortable with a lube vs red lactate which is what the balancer manufacturer wants. so I used both and lubed the head and washer and red on the threads.
if you ever spent any time on the m/b e55 forums a popular upgrade was a 185mm crank pulley. many shops failed to get the proper torque on the bolt and it would back out under hard boost causing tens of thousands of dollars in damage since it would destroy the end of the crank ruin the hood and rip the accessories off the front of the motor. something im trying to avoid
if you ever spent any time on the m/b e55 forums a popular upgrade was a 185mm crank pulley. many shops failed to get the proper torque on the bolt and it would back out under hard boost causing tens of thousands of dollars in damage since it would destroy the end of the crank ruin the hood and rip the accessories off the front of the motor. something im trying to avoid
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2023
Posts: 159
Likes: 10
yes the arp instructions want you to lube the threads. I simply wasnt comfortable with a lube vs red lactate which is what the balancer manufacturer wants. so I used both and lubed the head and washer and red on the threads.
if you ever spent any time on the m/b e55 forums a popular upgrade was a 185mm crank pulley. many shops failed to get the proper torque on the bolt and it would back out under hard boost causing tens of thousands of dollars in damage since it would destroy the end of the crank ruin the hood and rip the accessories off the front of the motor. something im trying to avoid
if you ever spent any time on the m/b e55 forums a popular upgrade was a 185mm crank pulley. many shops failed to get the proper torque on the bolt and it would back out under hard boost causing tens of thousands of dollars in damage since it would destroy the end of the crank ruin the hood and rip the accessories off the front of the motor. something im trying to avoid
