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Need help with my air conditioner 2017 GS. Fan still works but blows hot air (I'm in SoCal). How to check if I need more refrigerant (it's been 7 years, but seemed to work fine a week ago). I think the sensor still works, because when I turn down the temp, the fan blows more, I think indicating it's "trying" to blow more cold air. I'm not hearing a click when I engage the AC, so could be a fuse, or the pressure sensor, or (yikes) the compressor. Anyone have a similar problem with a hopefully easy fix?
If you don't hear the 'click' when you engage the AC this means that the compressor clutch is not being engaged.
Check voltage at the fuse box if ok then check for voltage at the compressor's clutch. You should see 12 volts when you turn on the AC.
You can actually see the clutch engage, if you look close enough, when AC is called for.
A scanner will also tell you if the AC is being called on to engage.
How to check if I need more refrigerant (it's been 7 years, but seemed to work fine a week ago).
You need to take it to a shop that does ac service. They have the gauges needed to check the refrigerant charge. They also have the detector needed to find any leaks. The compressor will not engage if the charge is low.
a solution that often works: unplug the plug directly to blower fan and plug it back in to get it working again
See post #14 within the thread for instructions
If that doesn't work- see post #21
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Here's how the dealer fixed my HVAC.....the actual HVAC blower motor connector was faulty and had to be replaced. The part # is 19368864. The list price for the part is $48. You can get it online for about $24 (GMPartsDirect, etc). The labor was $276 (!!!). Total cost from the dealership would have been: $324
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a solution that often works: unplug the plug directly to blower fan and plug it back in to get it working again
See post #14 within the thread for instructions
If that doesn't work- see post #21
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Here's how the dealer fixed my HVAC.....the actual HVAC blower motor connector was faulty and had to be replaced. The part # is 19368864. The list price for the part is $48. You can get it online for about $24 (GMPartsDirect, etc). The labor was $276 (!!!). Total cost from the dealership would have been: $324
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Thanks, but my blower works fine. Just sends hot air, though. No clicks from what I can hear. I'm leaning towards it being the condenser, or worse, the compressor. Any info on how to check the condenser, or even have photos of where it is?
Thanks, but my blower works fine. Just sends hot air, though. No clicks from what I can hear. I'm leaning towards it being the condenser, or worse, the compressor. Any info on how to check the condenser, or even have photos of where it is?
You don’t “check” the condenser for an AC concern…my advise to all you guys is AC servicing and diagnostics is NOT for the DIY’er…take your car to an AC shop !!
Need help with my air conditioner 2017 GS. Fan still works but blows hot air (I'm in SoCal). How to check if I need more refrigerant (it's been 7 years, but seemed to work fine a week ago). I think the sensor still works, because when I turn down the temp, the fan blows more, I think indicating it's "trying" to blow more cold air. I'm not hearing a click when I engage the AC, so could be a fuse, or the pressure sensor, or (yikes) the compressor. Anyone have a similar problem with a hopefully easy fix?
I had this issue was my ac compressor. Cost me $2600 at the dealer.
I had this issue was my ac compressor. Cost me $2600 at the dealer.
I would never go to the dealer, but thanks for "bracketing" the cost for me. Where is your dealer?
I am planning on going to my specialty Corvette shop, but if it's just something more simple, I could go to a local general mechanic. It's the diagnosis that I want to do so I don't get taken...but other than what I've done already (temp dial change, fuses, no click) I'm not sure what else I can do alone. I've done some heavier mechanical stuff on cars, but the Corvettes, nothing more than brakes/oil. Mostly because NOTHING has gone wrong for its 7 years!
Good start but you'll going to need a lot more equipment to really 'work' on car AC.
Leak detector
Weight scale, very important.
20 Lb jugs of refrigerant (you'll need a license to buy), little cans don't work. Forget about the $30 Walmart cans with a dial.
K type thermocouple meter, dual inputs work the best.
Vacuum pump, 1-3 CFM.
Good DVM.
Knowledge, you just can't 'wing' it.
The list goes on.
Well, they recharged the refrigerant, and it worked for a day. Then, no more refrigerant. Used a sensor to find the leak, and it was registering refrigerant out of the air vent in the cabin. Said it was the EVAPORATOR, which apparently (the air guy said) has to be replaced by taking out the dash. To me, that's a lifelong no-no. I may just drive around hot. Anyone else experience an evaporator fail? Thanks.
Seriously, the car companies should make it easier to replace the evaporators. ie: not having to pull the dash or improve the quality of the evaporator, don't make the tubes paper thin.
…my advise to all you guys is AC servicing and diagnostics is NOT for the DIY’er…take your car to an AC shop !!
Agreed. My experience with AC issues in various cars is that the specialists are the only ones who really know what they are doing and have the right equipment.
dash isnt that bad to yank just very time consuming. and just a fyi the freon doesnt evaporate. its lifelong as long as theres no pinhole leaks. a sealed system lasts a lifetime
FYI: All freon (not the correct name for our refrigerant, it's just become a general term that everyone uses) in modern cars for the last 20 years or more need to be 'weighed' in by the ounce, after you pull a hard vacuum. Gauges will not tell you how many ounces are in the system. Modern systems use so little freon that being off by just a few ounces, high or low, will result in a poorly working AC system.
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