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Yes, obviously the Valves need to be closed when we insert air into the cylinders before changes springs!...
Good job doing your own maintenance! ...👍🏻👊🏻🏁🏁
I have been beating my head against the wall. I purchased the offset 24mm wrench, I can not get it to work on the balancer bolt. Maybe the offset isn't enough. Is the 15/16 SAE, which is a bit smaller, a more true fit for that bolt?
I finally got a short 15/16 inch socket that fits the bolt, the 24mm is just to big.
I am not sure what engine you were working on, it isn't the LT1. With only 40 psi, if the piston isn't at TDC it spins the crank. LOL,,,,,,,LOL,,,,,,LOL,,,,,LOL!
Actually, it doesn't matter if the crank spins, all of the valves are closed because the rocker arms are removed.
The 12 point 27mm socket, kind of fits, but the 15/16 fits better. I have also figures out, it doesn't matter where the piston is, with all the rocker arms removed, all of the valves are closed.
I got that tool. It was very difficult to make it work. The longer tong would slip off the spring, just when you got it compressed. Extremely frustrating. I was about to toss it. I bent each of the tongs inward just a bit. I bent the tong at the hole, about half way up and ground the ends to better fit the spring. It now holds the spring much better.
Originally Posted by Dcasole
I did not because it depends on what type of "keeper" release tool you are using. I used a spring compressor that does not place any load on the retainer or the valve , I did not spin the crank at all using this type as I was confident that the air would hold up the valve and it was much easier because I did not have to bring each piston up to TDC , See below
But some of the others are like a lever that push down on the top of retainer to release the keepers , if you are using one of those I would spin the crank if you are worried about dropping a valve
I have 20,000 on my new engine so i am probably going to be doing the same soon
I finished the left side valve spring install. I only broke one thing. I broke the small black tube coming from the thermostat housing,,,,,
Talking about spinning the engine over with cylinder air pressure. That's what happened. I had a 2 foot breaker bar on the balancer bolt and couldn't hold it when air pressure was turned on.
I ordered the correct thermostat, that will be here tomorrow. I hated to wait! THEN I remembered I had a spare thermostat, just in case, in my parts drawer, duh. Got it installed this morning.
Then it was time to, start the engine. I was very nervous, thinking of all the terrible sounds I might hear, . All is good, whew. Took it for a drive around the block.
I ordered the correct thermostat, that will be here tomorrow. I hated to wait! THEN I remembered I had a spare thermostat, just in case, in my parts drawer, duh. Got it installed this morning.
Then it was time to, start the engine. I was very nervous, thinking of all the terrible sounds I might hear, . All is good, whew. Took it for a drive around the block.
SO,,,,, After watching MANY, how to, video's about installing valve springs on an LT1 engine. I finished installing the rockers yesterday, THEN, I found this. "THEY" say to release all the pressure on the rocker by making sure the rod is full down. When I installed the rockers I could see when it was pushing the spring down. When tightening the bolt I really didn't feel that much extra pressure. The torque spec is 22 lb. ft. I decided to use 25 lb. ft. My torque wrench is 15 years old.
Is it really that important on the LT1 engine to have the rod full down when torquing the rockers? I have read it really doesn't make any difference.
A side note. Test your torque wrench for accuracy. Mine was way off. Now I have to retorque the rocker arm bolts. TIHS!
Well, easier than I thought. Done.
SO,,,,, After watching MANY, how to, video's about installing valve springs on an LT1 engine. I finished installing the rockers yesterday, THEN, I found this. "THEY" say to release all the pressure on the rocker by making sure the rod is full down. When I installed the rockers I could see when it was pushing the spring down. When tightening the bolt I really didn't feel that much extra pressure. The torque spec is 22 lb. ft. I decided to use 25 lb. ft. My torque wrench is 15 years old.
Is it really that important on the LT1 engine to have the rod full down when torquing the rockers? I have read it really doesn't make any difference.
A side note. Test your torque wrench for accuracy. Mine was way off. Now I have to retorque the rocker arm bolts. TIHS!
Well, easier than I thought. Done.
I just torque em down without worrying about where the pushrod is sitting. If you want, torque everything down, spin the engine over until you see valves that were open are now closed, and torque again.
Also for anyone who is struggling with the air pressure method of holding valves up, another alternative is to snake some rope into the cylinder thru the spark plug opening, and slowly rotate the engine until it stops. The spring can then be removed and the valve will stay in place. Same concept as the air method. Useful if you dont have a compressor nearby.
Yes, I didn't worry about the rocker being up or down. I really didn't feal any real difference between weather the rod was up or down. What surprised me, when I got the torque wrench recalibration device, how far off both of my wrenches were. I corrected both wrenches. This led me to remove the valve cover again and test all of the rocker arm bolts. I guess I really didn't find any of them that were not correct.
It would be a good idea for those of you that use torque wrenches, to have them calibrated. I was shocked how far mine were off. For the 22 ft lbs, setting my wrench was 16 ft lbs.
I am in Loveland CO. If anybody wants their wrench calibrated, stop by.
You need to keep air pressure constantly on the cylinder or use the 'old' rope trick.
If you lose air pressure and no rope trick the valve will drop when you release the spring pressure with or without the rockers attached. you have to remove them anyway to get to the springs, just look at the photos above.
You would benefit by having a compressor with a large tank because of air pressure escaping past the rings. You DON'T want to loose pressure with the spring removed or it will drop! Ugh........
Will you kindly post the manufacturer and part number of the new springs you installed? I am considering the same project for my C7.
These are the OEM spec spring for the LT1. I wasn't interested in installing the super duper springs. I installed the .550 OEM spring spec, and the new valve seals.
Brian Tooley BTR .550" Lift 2014+ Gen V LT Beehive Valve Spring Set.
Just finished up the right side valve springs today. Removing the electronic box and the coolant reservoir is a must. I was able to leave the main coolant line connected to the reservoir and move it out of the way. That way you don't lose any coolant.
I did pressurize the cylinders but I didn't turn the pistons to top dead center. I tested the valves to see is they might fall into the cylinders, they seemed pretty solid.
This time I used the, Bluegrass Performance BPPLT1DVST Valve Spring Compressor, Gen V
from Speedway Motors. It works very well.
It probably is just the placebo effect but it seems to run better.
Does anybody local need a valve spring compressor. I hope, I will not be needing it again.
. All is good, whew. Took it for a drive around the block.
