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behind the a-arms (top) there are 2 washers(shims) behind each of the four bolts, in the 2014 owners manual it says not to remove washers(shims) in the 2015 manual it tells you to remove one from each bolt to get neg camber. did that myself yesterday and in the morning im getting a alignment and expect to get all neg. camber i want! we shall see.
I did exactly that last weekend with my 2014. Solved the camber problem. Since there are actually four bolts at the top of each A arm, I had a total of 16 removed. No problem getting -2.5 in front and -2.0 in rear. Could really feel the difference on the track.
I took them out of my circle track car & bought a set of "slugs" (square metal pieces with different offset holes that fit in the same slot where the eccentric bolts go) since us circle track guys bump & rub a lot. I'll take a picture & post later when I'm back at my race shop.
MOBY - I would like to follow up on your post above. I tracked my Z06 for two track days and today I went back to the tire shop and my alignment had moved significantly... I am thinking it is must be the eccentric bolts in the suspension... I would like to learn more about this topic and how to 'lock in' a track alignment better. I am not a mechanic so I hope this can all be expressed in layman's language...
Hey guys, Hopefully you guys dont mind me having this question in here. I have a friend who runs a local tire shop with alignment and hes gonna give me a lifetime alignment deal. The information in here will already be helpful to him for adjusting the alignments, but does anyone have the specific targets for a z06/z07?
Such as what is the track alignment suggested and then what is the non track alignment suggested.
I would only use the track setup when going to track's nearby.
Hey guys, Hopefully you guys dont mind me having this question in here. I have a friend who runs a local tire shop with alignment and hes gonna give me a lifetime alignment deal. The information in here will already be helpful to him for adjusting the alignments, but does anyone have the specific targets for a z06/z07? Such as what is the track alignment suggested and then what is the non track alignment suggested. I would only use the track setup when going to track's nearby.
Thanks, I'll go ahead and verify that. Honestly I didn't realize that the rear caster was adjustable on the C7 and I'm pretty sure it wasn't on previous gen cars so I didn't pay much attention to it. The guy doing the actual alignment work just went by what I told him since it was outside the parameters of what the alignment system said.
MustOfBeenYellow - thanks for the tip of bump steer. I'll ask about that as well but it's not something we've looked at in the past.
As far as switching back and forth on alignments is concerned, my plan is to daily drive the track alignment and see how the tire wear is. I suspect that with the occasional track duty I'll wear the tires out before the extra camber would wear the inside edges.
On my C6Z I used to switch back and forth by adding and removing washers and then resetting toe with toe plates but that car had a camber kit on it and now that it's 99% track I don't bother.
I have 5200 miles on mine already, two track days. Except for the front outer block the wear is exceptionally small. I'm quite impressed with the Cup 2s. I'm not sure why there is so much negative feedback on these guys.
I have 5200 miles on mine already, two track days. Except for the front outer block the wear is exceptionally small. I'm quite impressed with the Cup 2s. I'm not sure why there is so much negative feedback on these guys.
Do you think you could take a picture of each tire clearly showing the wear for me?
Mine looked pretty worn at 1500 miles with absolutely zero aggressive driving. Mine sit at the dealership now or I would take pictures myself to upload instead.
Do you think you could take a picture of each tire clearly showing the wear for me?
Mine looked pretty worn at 1500 miles with absolutely zero aggressive driving. Mine sit at the dealership now or I would take pictures myself to upload instead.
They always look worn out compared to regular tires. The outer block looks like a slick. This is normal. Wear it to the cords.
how hard are the control arm bushings compared to a C6? If they are rubber like the C6, you can set the camber to -2, but under lateral load you will be closer to 0 camber due to bushing compression.
Funny how no one checks rear caster. Two eccentrics on the bottom rear A-arm means you can set camber and have any kind of caster if you don't check it for a given value of camber. And you can't check it on an alignment rack unless you have a digital angle gauge mounted on a GM fixture tool that bolts into two threaded holes on the rear knuckle.
Not a single reply to this thread I started on the subject: