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Seems too simple. But then it must be the heat at the cylinder. I've had a couple of old backhoes. Pistons and seals everywhere. Constantly working in dirt, out in all weather. First one I had was a 1973 Ford 4500. Looked like hell. Probably had 17,000 hours on it. Fluid was clear.
While I am leaning towards an a8-- i am confident there will many problems surfacing on the 8 speed slip and slide automatic with its elf ears paddle shifter- way more than the manual Trans cars . Especially with the torque the lt4 puts out.
With most owners letting these cars sit during the winter months automatics won't do as well as manuals. There will be more problems with leaking seals and the internal component failure of the automatics sitting idle then with the manual Trans cars sitting at rest.
I change the reservoir fluid once a week. Takes 2 minutes. 56,000 miles, 8 years and still on original clutch and slave. 30+ track days, 570+ rwhp, and thousands of redline shifts. Hasn't stuck to the floor once. Fresh reservoir fluid must do something.
He also very seldom drives his 2006 Z06 and it has never had the clutch pedal stick on the floor.
My Z06 normally isn't driven between November and April each year. It sits in the garage, on a float charger, and every spring when I start it, the clutch pedal NEVER sticks to the floor.
Could it be because I keep fresh clean fluid in the clutch system, using the Ranger method?
Seems too simple. But then it must be the heat at the cylinder. I've had a couple of old backhoes. Pistons and seals everywhere. Constantly working in dirt, out in all weather. First one I had was a 1973 Ford 4500. Looked like hell. Probably had 17,000 hours on it. Fluid was clear.
How many 6500 RPM shifts has it had where you can see clutch dust spewing out the bell housing?
Please describe in detail the mechanism by which the clutch dust mixed with the clutch fluid causes the clutch pedal to stick to the floor?
Originally Posted by TEXHAWK0
The clutch slave cylinder is in the same housing as the clutch, and dust can enter the system on that end.
To bleed the whole clutch system you do have to get to the bleeder valve which is up inside the tunnel and hard to reach.. Replacing fluid in the reservoir just dilutes the dirty fluid until most of the particulates have been removed.
Thanks, I already know all of that and you haven't answered my question above. What is the connection between the clutch dust and the pedal sticking to the floor??? What is it about the clutch dust in the fluid that causes the pedal to stick to the floor??? Take your time, I can't wait to hear this one.
A friend(in his eighties) with a 2009 ZR1, and he very seldom drives it, and has very few miles on it, went out to his garage and started the car(it had not been started in months so it was cold, as was the clutch fluid). He pushed the clutch pedal to the floor to start the car, and when he went to back the car out of the garage, the pedal was stuck to the floor. He has never shifted the car at high RPM's, had it on a track, etc: just easy street driven, and he had never removed the cap off the reservoir allowing moisture to possibly enter the system.
He had to call a roll back, had it trucked 60 miles to Reliable Chevrolet, and they flushed the system out. It ended up costing him over a thousand bucks. He wasn't aware that there was a problem with sticking clutch pedals(before that incident) and it cost him a lot more than what it cost me to flush my system out at $4 every six months.
Sorry, I don't believe that "story". I can't imagine a dealership charging $1000 for a flush, there was obviously more to this than the 80+ year old guy told you.
While I am leaning towards an a8-- i am confident there will many problems surfacing on the 8 speed slip and slide automatic with its elf ears paddle shifter- way more than the manual Trans cars . Especially with the torque the lt4 puts out.
With most owners letting these cars sit during the winter months automatics won't do as well as manuals. There will be more problems with leaking seals and the internal component failure of the automatics sitting idle then with the manual Trans cars sitting at rest.
Were you one of the design engineers on the 8L90? Do you have some kind of special insight into problems down the road? Maybe a crystal ball or Ouiji board?
GM rates the torque capacity of the 8L90 much higher than the TR6070 and I've read about far more problems on the forum with the M7 than the A6 or A8. Maybe you got beat by an automatic and you're still upset about it, you sound very angry.
Iwould not put it past GM to be spec'ing a cheap slave cylinder design, whether it be the mechanical or the seal using cheap materials or both. One only needs to look at the shifter. Replaced mine with an MGW. Makes the GM shifter look like a chinese copy.
Iwould not put it past GM to be spec'ing a cheap slave cylinder design, whether it be the mechanical or the seal using cheap materials or both. One only needs to look at the shifter. Replaced mine with an MGW. Makes the GM shifter look like a chinese copy.
The shifter looks just fine too me. The worst ones I drove was a '60s Dacia, a full size manual U-Haul, and the first gen Dodge Neon. I find it weird that people complain about the shifter since it's one of the nicest in the production imo. Doesn't burn in direct sunlight, doesn't' freeze your hand in the mornings. Even if MGW is a great piece, this is by far a first world problem.
Sorry, I don't believe that "story". I can't imagine a dealership charging $1000 for a flush, there was obviously more to this than the 80+ year old guy told you.
No lie. Part of that expense was the cost of the rollback to drive from Springfield to get his car and then back to Springfield to deliver his car to the dealer. I don't see why he would lie to me about the cost as he had no reason to do so.
Oh, and he is a degreed mechanical engineer, a MBA, and retired as President and CEO of a large electric motor & generator manufacturer.
He's no dumb *** redneck hillbilly that just happens to own a poor boy Corvette. He has(in addition to he and his wife's street vehicles) a 1954 Kaiser Darrin roadster, two 1934 street rods(one a 3W coupe the other a 4 door sedan), a 1968 Camaro, a SSR, a C6 Z06, a C6 ZR1 and a 2015 C7(not a Z06).
Oh, And I change the oil in my four cars, including my Mercedes. Costs me around $46(6qts Castrol full synthetic 0w40 and a WIX filter). Care to guess the price that my Mercedes dealer charges for that oil change? While the price does seem high for the dealer to flush his clutch fluid, it really doesn't surprise me.
I'm with Mr glass slipper on this one. I would also like to expand upon his question and inquire how dust could get in through a seal but yet the seal still keep the clutch fluid from leaking out?
I'm with Mr glass slipper on this one. I would also like to expand upon his question and inquire how dust could get in through a seal but yet the seal still keep the clutch fluid from leaking out?
Yes maybe the problem is the cheap internal rubber components dissolving from heat and chemicals. Sounds more likely to me.
The shifter looks just fine too me. The worst ones I drove was a '60s Dacia, a full size manual U-Haul, and the first gen Dodge Neon. I find it weird that people complain about the shifter since it's one of the nicest in the production imo. Doesn't burn in direct sunlight, doesn't' freeze your hand in the mornings. Even if MGW is a great piece, this is by far a first world problem.
Im talking about the difference in shifting feel due to superior attention paid to closer tolerancing and better part design. The GM shifter does in fact work quite well but than so does a VW bug.
