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Has anyone compared track setting to the standard setting on the track so see if there is a noticeable difference. Chevy suggests changing it back and forth for the track/street. At $300+ for each track(s) event it really gets pricy.
Has anyone compared track setting to the standard setting on the track so see if there is a noticeable difference. Chevy suggests changing it back and forth for the track/street. At $300+ for each track(s) event it really gets pricy.
You can leave it on track settings. Makes a world of a difference. Car is like its on rails with track alignment.
Leaving it in the suggested track alignment is what I plan to do. My local track is about an hour away. Since I don't plan on operating the car on the street much, hopefully I won't see any premature tire wear.
Also, in the racing and autoX section, in the discussion about using hoosier's racing slicks, I didn't see much pertaining to how people intended to set track alignment using those tire vs the MPSS, or other tires. Comments plz.
You can leave it on track settings. Makes a world of a difference. Car is like its on rails with track alignment.
Thanks for the info, I plan on road trips in-between events, so would be interested to see if there is going to be much wear with the track setting for the street. They also recommend switching fluids (oil/brake) from the usual to the racing type back and forth which is also expensive.
Thanks for the info, I plan on road trips in-between events, so would be interested to see if there is going to be much wear with the track setting for the street. They also recommend switching fluids (oil/brake) from the usual to the racing type back and forth which is also expensive.
You absolutely do not need to change your brake fluid once you've placed some high quality DOT 4 in the car. As for engine oil, it's always a damn good idea to change it after every track weekend IMHO, and Mobil 1 is cheap.
Bish
Find a Firestone that has 'car guys' running it. I found one by asking my local Corvette performance shop for a recommendation. I think I paid $189 for LIFETIME alignments. I asked them upfront if they would had any issue doing my alignment about twice a month and they said 'no problem', and that they LIKE getting to work on sports cars rather than sedans. I now have a tech that knows my car and I request him when I make my appointment. I give him a $10 tip every time I go in, but this is still way cheaper than using GM.
FYI- Running the track alignment is worth the trouble. To get the recommended 2 degrees of camber in the rear (in a Z51 C7), you need to either remove the bolt washer or change out the bolt to one without a washer (it mentions this in the manual). The most camber he could get (and still meet the other specs) with the stock bolt was ~ 1.7 degrees (C7 Z51).
Thanks that is a great idea! When I asked the local Chevy service rep he said that changing it wasn't a bid deal in the Z06's but still was going to charge me full price.
Just to be clear you Z06 drivers notice a big difference when running it on the track with the track alignment versa the street setting?
Based on my car, spacers/washers need to be removed to achieve the track alignment spec of -2.0 camber. That makes switching back and forth a bit of a chore.
S.
I'm going to be doing this next month for my 1st open track time in my Z with the Cup 2 tires. Any problems with the cups staying with track alignment after the event?
One thing that could be done if you're only doing 3-4 HPDE events a year is compromise on the camber a little. In other words, don't push for the full -2.0 front and rear, but perhaps settle for -1.5/-1.7. In this way you might minimise the increased wear on the inside of the tyre if doing a lot of street miles, and you'll still get most of the benefit of the full 'track' alignment.
Other option of course is to just switch back to street alignment after the track season is over.
Bish
Inner tire wear from added negative camber is hugely exaggerated. I wouldn't even worry about it. Now add a little toe-in, and watch your inner edge shred off!
You can always learn to do alignments yourself and never have to pay for an alignment again. It really isn't that hard. If you don't feel comfortable with the whole alignment, get the camber set to where you want it and run .1° toe-in front and rear on the street and whatever you want on the track...toe is the easiest to measure and adjust.
You can always learn to do alignments yourself and never have to pay for an alignment again. It really isn't that hard. If you don't feel comfortable with the whole alignment, get the camber set to where you want it and run .1° toe-in front and rear on the street and whatever you want on the track...toe is the easiest to measure and adjust.
Based on my car, spacers/washers need to be removed to achieve the track alignment spec of -2.0 camber. That makes switching back and forth a bit of a chore.
S.
i was able to get the front to -2.0° with washer in.. rear maxed at -1.8° without ruining toe..
i did lower the front half an inch and i was in the car and im heavy so maybe that helped lol..
My stock setting was -1.1° and -1.0° all around for all my track events so far.,.
my out side edges of my tires worn, no tread but inside edge still looks brand new lmao
3rd or 4th track day stock alignment (-1°).. this at poconos oval IMSA
Find a Firestone that has 'car guys' running it. I found one by asking my local Corvette performance shop for a recommendation. I think I paid $189 for LIFETIME alignments. I asked them upfront if they would had any issue doing my alignment about twice a month and they said 'no problem', and that they LIKE getting to work on sports cars rather than sedans. I now have a tech that knows my car and I request him when I make my appointment. I give him a $10 tip every time I go in, but this is still way cheaper than using GM.
FYI- Running the track alignment is worth the trouble. To get the recommended 2 degrees of camber in the rear (in a Z51 C7), you need to either remove the bolt washer or change out the bolt to one without a washer (it mentions this in the manual). The most camber he could get (and still meet the other specs) with the stock bolt was ~ 1.7 degrees (C7 Z51).
My local Firestone shop said they didn't have the equipment to set the alignment and reset the sensors. Will you provide me with contact data on the shop that you are using please? I would like to see how they get around this issue.
thanks