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Coolant help

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Old Jun 28, 2015 | 03:06 PM
  #21  
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I read a thread elsewhere on here where someone's surge tank filler neck was not concentric and the system would boil over since it wasn't holding pressure.
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Old Jun 28, 2015 | 03:13 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by sushisean
The surge tank is where I was filling from and that is the highest point. I also jacked the nose of the car up.
The aforementioned Firebird also has a surge tank at the highest point (but no vent line), but imagine a boat upside down under water with an air bubble. You can pour all the water you want into the lake, but the only way to get the air out is to open a vent at the top of the air bubble. The intake manifold water passages on the Firebird were acting like that upside-down boat. The vent line from my radiator to the surge tank is purely a vent to let the trapped air out of the radiator tank, and there is a second, larger water line at the bottom of the surge tank that is used to fill the system. LS motors generally have a vent line that goes from the top of the radiator to the top of the surge tank, and that line has a tee with a smaller hose that vents from the top of the motor. I assume the LT4 has something similar. If it does, I would be tempted to open the vent line coming from the motor, pour water into the surge tank, and see if I heard/felt any air escaping from the vent. Again, just thinking out load.

Pappy
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Old Jun 28, 2015 | 05:53 PM
  #23  
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I have been truly surprised that with the difficulty of filling the cooling systems on the vette and removing all air that using an Air Lift coolant installation tool has not become standard.

Using an AirLift tool the cooling system can be completely filled without air bubbles first time every time. I came to know this tool working on Ford GTs that have a similar if worse problem with oddly shaped cooling system with plenty of places to catch air bubbles.

Amazon.com: UView 550000 Airlift Cooling System Leak Checker and Airlock Purge Tool Kit: Automotive Amazon.com: UView 550000 Airlift Cooling System Leak Checker and Airlock Purge Tool Kit: Automotive
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Old Jun 28, 2015 | 08:53 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by sushisean
No I didn't. That would turn the fan on earlier?
No, just allows water/coolant to flow at a lower temperature.
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Old Jun 29, 2015 | 06:12 AM
  #25  
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Lets get that intake off asap. Your PDR vids are too fun too miss...
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Old Jun 29, 2015 | 10:49 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by sushisean
That coincides well with my latest theory, which is that by putting that T under the Halltech intake I installed I impacted how the cooling system works adversely. In hind sight installing the intake was a mistake. I took a perfectly working car that I had tracked many times flawlessly, and started experiencing problems immediately.
Sorry you have experienced what many other have experienced with overheating. I can see why you would think our intake is involved based on having no problems before it was installed.

The intake itself could not cause overheating, but you do need to check your coolant level. I had one customer with overheating directly after install, and he left his rad. Cap loose and lost 1 gallon of fluid. Blamed the intake. I told him to fill the tank after the car warmed up, and then shut it off and let it cool down. Finally after 1 day and 1 gallon, problem solved. You may have an air pocket as he did.

Having the line over or under makes no difference to the water. As it expands, it moves through the line to the expansion tank, then back to the radiator when it cools. You can run it over the intake if you like, it makes no difference:


The coolant line can be put over the intake. You could shorten the line by a few inches.

You can even use the stock setup as shown here. The reason for our longer line is to make the install easier and sano. I have personally installed a few who wanted the lines left stock.

Alternative coolant location

We have sold 350 C7 Stinger Hybrids,CKNs, Stinger-RZs and CKNZs since Feb 2014, and I am quite sure over the past 16 months other folks have raced their cars, and never any reports like this. GM purchased one in Feb 2014 and had us ship it to the Milford Proving Grounds for testing one would assume, and no negative reports. Chevrolet dealers all over the world have installed our Stingers, and only one other issue came up on the forum, where overheating was the result of a loose radiator cap. Without pressure in the radiator system, water boils at normal temps.

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Old Jun 29, 2015 | 11:00 AM
  #27  
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For the record guys Jim has been super helpful trying to troubleshoot this even emailing me back on a Sunday and going above and beyond to try and help me fix this. I DO NOT think his intake itself caused any issues. I think my cutting the lines and getting a bubble in the system is the issue. I'm going to do everything I can to try and fix the problem before I resort to removing the intake.

I WOULDN'T HESITATE TO BUY ANOTHER HALLTECH INTAKE. Just be careful when working with that cooling line!
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Old Jun 29, 2015 | 11:16 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by sushisean
For the record guys Jim has been super helpful trying to troubleshoot this even emailing me back on a Sunday and going above and beyond to try and help me fix this. I DO NOT think his intake itself caused any issues. I think my cutting the lines and getting a bubble in the system is the issue. I'm going to do everything I can to try and fix the problem before I resort to removing the intake.

I WOULDN'T HESITATE TO BUY ANOTHER HALLTECH INTAKE. Just be careful when working with that cooling line!
Thank you Sean. As you know, we have our CKNZ intakes going again, and would be happy to upgrade you.

In the meantime, just put the coolant line back to stock and make sure you get the issue resolved first.
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Old Jun 29, 2015 | 11:19 AM
  #29  
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I have not seen this before. The T-fitting does not go under the intake, only the hose. As I mentioned above, the hose itself can be shortened and put over the intake bridge. Under is for sano freaks like me.
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