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My opinion on this subject. You broke one, you will break another. I would replace all the studs. You can use ARP 100-7708. From end to end they are 2 1/2" long, about 1/4" longer than stock. The bolts holding the wheel bearings to the knuckle are hex bolts not torx. And get a new toque wrench. Not a Sears or Harbor Freight. Go for a Snap-on or Matco.
Not sure who that is directed at but I didn't break a stud, I am trying to be proactive in changing them since I have the wheels on and off a lot. I was asking if there was a stronger option without the hassle of longer studs.
BTW, does anyone know the torque for the bearing to knuckle bolts? Are you supposed to use locktite or anything when putting them back together?
I don't suppose anyone has found a good OEM length replacement?
I started on this project tonight and got the first of the front OEM studs out no problem using Bill's technique. However, as also noted the ARP studs are longer and won't go back in unless I pull the hub.
While the front doesn't sound too bad it sounds like pulling the rear hub is a pain so I'm reconsidering my course of action. This seems like a piece of cake with stock length studs.
Why not re machine the ARP studs to fit? If done properly, it would not hurt the heat treat
Does anyone know how it happened? I had it happen to me once on my Audi, and I stripped a hole (they use lug bolts, not lug nuts).
Sometimes you get to the point where you're really leaning on the torque wrench but it doesn't click, and you can continue to add force and it still won't click, but it'll bust a stud. This is with a Craftsman unit.
I guess the obvious answer would be to make your movements with a torque wrench authoritative and snappy, but is that all it is?
Now I use torque sticks on an impact and verify with the wrench afterward. They're always within 2-3 ftlbs so I should just trust them, but don't yet...
I finally bailed on trying to get the ARP studs on. If they were stock length this would be cake but I couldn't get the LCA free of the upright and recognized that if I kept at this I was going to break something else. Back on went the stock studs.
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Originally Posted by Poor-sha
I finally bailed on trying to get the ARP studs on. If they were stock length this would be cake but I couldn't get the LCA free of the upright and recognized that if I kept at this I was going to break something else. Back on went the stock studs.
Pardon me if I am missing something and this is an ignorant question but why not cut the ARP stud down to proper length? Put a nut on, cut it and when you remove the nut it will clean up any boogered threads. It isn't as pretty of an option but if it provides the added strength....
I finally bailed on trying to get the ARP studs on. If they were stock length this would be cake but I couldn't get the LCA free of the upright and recognized that if I kept at this I was going to break something else. Back on went the stock studs.
Pardon me if I am missing something and this is an ignorant question but why not cut the ARP stud down to proper length? Put a nut on, cut it and when you remove the nut it will clean up any boogered threads. It isn't as pretty of an option but if it provides the added strength....
I'm interested to hear if anything thinks this will affect the strength of the stud. Given that I've already bought them and not about to ship them back to Katech I might as well.
Now I just need to fix my compressor so I can use the cut off wheel.
@Rob - I was working the front which should be the easier of the axles.
I'm interested to hear if anything thinks this will affect the strength of the stud. Given that I've already bought them and not about to ship them back to Katech I might as well.
Now I just need to fix my compressor so I can use the cut off wheel.
@Rob - I was working the front which should be the easier of the axles.
Super old thread, I know --
But it would only effect the strength if the metal was heated to the point of it getting soft. If I had to do it again, I would probably have used a bit of cutting oil and a lathe and machined the ARP's to have a similar tip to OEM.
My opinion on this subject. You broke one, you will break another. I would replace all the studs. You can use ARP 100-7708. From end to end they are 2 1/2" long, about 1/4" longer than stock. The bolts holding the wheel bearings to the knuckle are hex bolts not torx. And get a new toque wrench. Not a Sears or Harbor Freight. Go for a Snap-on or Matco.
Reviving an old thread but has anyone here installed these ARP 100-7708 studs? Can these be placed without undoing the knuckles or control arms at all?
Reviving an old thread but has anyone here installed these ARP 100-7708 studs? Can these be placed without undoing the knuckles or control arms at all?
Not at the delivered length. They might if you cut them down.
Not at the delivered length. They might if you cut them down.
If I'm reading the numbers correctly the ARP 100-7726 should be almost identical length to the stock studs at a 2.00" underhead length. I'm assuming they weren't making these at the time this thread was started.
If I'm reading the numbers correctly the ARP 100-7726 should be almost identical length to the stock studs at a 2.00" underhead length. I'm assuming they weren't making these at the time this thread was started.
It’s possible, I’m not sure. The OEM studs are also turned down on the ends. Even with OEM, it’s really tight to get them in without taking things apart. Wish I could be more help.
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