Hey guys,

Sorry i have searched and not found much comparing the different catch cans, especially for the z06. Most threads and images, even from vendors, lead to a LT1 install.

For whomever has one installed, or even vendors if they have the information for a Z06, could we get information such as brand, how you like it, how often you empty/check it, and most importantly clear pictures installed.

I am personally looking for a unit that does not look awful and does not use the generic black piping you can buy from autozone.

Thanks,

 

I am interested as well.

 

Me as well

 

I installed the Z06 kit from RX Products. Here are a few photos of the install.





Oil found in upper intake from PCV system prior to can install. This is at only 1450 miles.





Dirty underside of cover.





New can installed





Revised passenger side plumbing

 

any part #s on the RX package

 

Elite Engineering will have one for the Z06 up on their site any day.
http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/c...el-years-2014/

 

No part numbers. Just call them and order kit for C7 Z06. Colorado Speed has the same kit (or very close) available under their own label as well. Rumor has it Elite will have one soon as well.

 

Thanks JTCHorne, exactly what im looking for. Hopefully others will chime in and we can see multiple ones for people to compare and pick!

 

I'll go over all of any questions any may have related to all things catchcan, Direct Injection, Issues caused by oil ingestion, and ALL the functions of the PCV system so no one makes a mistake that can cause more harm to their engine than they are trying to prevent. This is a process that education is a must. You really have to understand all aspects, as there are many solutions being sold that may stop the oil ingestion, but at the sacrifice of the engine. And no one wants that.

I will also go over the different catchcan designs, and it will be easy to see how most only trap a small amount of oil allowing most to be pulled through and still ingested. The common way someone judges a cans effectiveness is that when they drain it, oil comes out. This is not a good way as all cans catch some oil, and all engines will have different levels of blow-by depending on how well the piston rings seated during that first critical 3-400 miles.

Much of this I have posted in other threads, but this is a good place to consolidate all of this.

Also, The genuine original RX systems are no longer available due to a group that copied and is selling cheap Chinese knock-offs under the same brand an logo. Elite Engineering and Colorado Speed both have designs that are the patented 95-98% effectiveness, contracted with the same engineer that designed the RX systems, and are proven to not only stop the ingestion, but also correct the PCV system to provide constant evacuation at all times, unlike the OEM system that does not evacuate when under acceleration (LT1, LT4 does already), and go over the improvements GM has made to reduce the ingestion.

Feel free to ask questions, as this is not going to be a simple quick learn.

 

This thread was not for learning, there are many others for that. This thread was specifically for information on the systems available. With install pictures on a z06, as nearly all vendors only have them for a LT1.

If you have a system you would like to post, please do so. Having information such as the effectiveness would be great too as long as there are details surrounding how the conclusion was reached. If anything it should help you sell a bunch then as the other systems would not hold such data.

So please, lets keep the discussions about effectiveness and uses and long term wear etc to the other threads and keep this one specific to products.

 

Looking forward to more info and pix of your system, and let me be the first to ask:

Any warranty concerns with the Catch Can installed if something 'lets go'?

Bish

 

My vehicle was the test mule for the system discussed by coSpeed2. Was installed by the designer and modded by the designer as development went forward.

Your wish while honorable is very problematic because not all of the cans work or are not a closed system making them a no no for the EPA..

Lots of documentation out there on my car and now others... Good Luck with this--I do not participate as a rule on these threads because they tend to get so much incorrect information posted it makes my head hurt. jcthorne has done testing as well. Maybe others will post I know Tom posts on this Forum as well.

 

If there was such documentation to be posted, I would assume it would be posted as well in here accompanying the product. Those without such research etc would eventually show as well thus highlighting the better products. Lets face it, right now, there is no good way to know which one to buy and thats what I am trying to change, so by choosing to not post, its just not helpful, if you do have the information as stated.

 

Let's start with why do we want to stop the oil ingestion, what it cause as far as issues, and how this was not nearly as critical of an issue with the old port injection engines of the past 20-25 plus years, but is crucial to Direct Injection.

First off lets start with the early days of crankcase evacuation pre 1963 when all engines used a "road draft" tube as the only purpose that was understood at the time was relieving pressure from the crankcase caused by the blow-by all internal combustion engines have. In those early years, there was a tube that ran from the crankcase down to the ground, and it allowed that pressure to vent out, and along with it oil also dripped onto the road. Those engine rarely made it more than 30-50k miles before needing a complete rebuild. The reasons were several. Oil quality, materials used, tolerances in the assembly process, and most telling was the dirt, water, sand, and dust that would enter these tubes and thus the crankcase as they has either no filtration or at best a small amount of steel wool type media. Engineers did not understand how the reversion allowed paths f suction between the out-going pressure that brought these contaminates directly into the engine. The Bernoulli effect and the Venturi effect are the scientific principals of flow dynamics that were not readily understood until technology advanced. In those days oil changed every 500-1000 miles was the only way to really extend engine life due to not only the contaminates that enter the crankcase as blow-by (Unburnt fuel, water vapor released during the intense heat and pressures of the combustion process, abrasive soot and carbon particles, and the sulfuric acid that forms by the water mixing with various hydrocarbon based compounds.

Jump ahead to the early and mid 60's as (many old timer will remember those oil trails down the center of each lane) the EPA came about and people were becoming alarmed with pollution. Thus the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) system was implemented and mandated. (Let me stop here, as most incorrectly believe the only purpose of the PCV system is emissions, and there are several other critical functions it performs to extend engine life).

The PCV system consisted early on as a "clean" or "fresh" side, and a "Dirty" or "foul" side. The clean side was where filtered fresh air would enter one bank, or side of the engine, and the Dirty where the damaging gasses would be drawn out and pulled into the intake air charge to be burned in the combustion process. To control the flow, the PCV valve was invented that allowed enough flow to evacuate the crankcase, but not so much as to pull oil from the engine. By filtered fresh air entering one side of the engine, and traveling through this also "flushed" the damaging compounds that at the time the engineers were not aware were causing damage to the engine rotating parts and all soon discovered, by accident, that engines were now lasting 2-3 times the miles they did prior to implementing the PCV system.

Here is a great training video on the basics of a PCV system, and the functions it provides:

You may want to view this several times to not miss any. It is basic, but covers each function the system provides.

Now, all through this time engines were for the most part (other than early Lucas and GM fuel injection and others) carbureted as far as air/fuel delivery and another issue was gasoline was pretty unregulated and due to the lack of standards for detergent additives (see Shell commercials or placards of dirty valves) so it was standard to need a "Valve Job" at 30-50K miles due to the wear from the deposits (coking) that formed on the valves causing the valve guides to wear, and also the non-hardened seats they sealed to when closed. Our Government mandated minimum standards so that ALL fuels had to contain minimum amounts of detergents to help slow these deposits from forming. How did they wear the valve guides? The deposits form on all parts of the valve, but the stem cycles up into the guide and pulling these abrasive deposits caused wear to the guides and instability over time as well as excessive oil consumption. This helped a great deal, but as the fuel was introduced at the carburetor, it was not enough to keep the valves deposit free. So until the advent of Port fuel injection, valve guide wear was an issue all had to eventually deal with.

I'll break here to not make each section too long so questions can be asked. Continued in next post.

 

By chance, would you be willing to re-create this thread with your informational posts as the start? I can then ask a admin to merge any informative post from here into there. It really would be the best overall thread possible to start with unbiased information as posted. Now.. who is an admin i can ask

 

Hi Daisuke, it will be very confusing to just post pictures of different systems without explanations but I will do my best. There have been many tests performed independently, and one very long term one being conducted on camaro5, but posting the link would be a violation of rules, and we want to keep within the rules. This is really something that needs education along with showing whats available. So I hope you do not mind I mix education with the systems.

I will post some of those results, but the best is to explain how these tests are performed, and every brand has promotional pieces so I want to keep this as "non-commercial" as possible. I also think t would be good for others to post pictures and experiences with what they have tried or are running.

 

Great. I used there product on my C6Z.

 

Good idea.

Let me post some quick over views of systems available and the plus and minuses of each.

For the LT4 specifically the top mount/roots type supercharger has the advantage of always providing suction, or vacuum for the evacuation process, so this is an advantage over a naturally aspirated engine where any time you accelerate vacuum drops to zero so evacuation cannot take place without a second, or alternative suction source. Thus a can (and the term "catchcan" is a misnomer as you really want a true air/oil separation system, as most "catchcans" are no more than a can that liquid is caught in. So this narrows the choices to a very few that are true air/oil separating systems.) with only one suction source is limited to just that.

So I will go over jcthornes pictures as they cover all that is needed for the LT4.

As the LT4 engine has the "dirty side" vent tube hidden under the supercharger, it is not readily accessible like the LT1 and earlier generations of the LS family, so it is a bit more involved. As it comes from the factory, the LT4 brings in the filtered, MAF metered fresh air from the main intake air filter/induction assy. which first travels through the dry sump oil tank. From there it splits and enters both the passenger side and rivers side valve covers, travels past the rocker arm assy and down the oil return and push rod valleys into the main portion of the crankcase where the foul vapors are then pulled into the baffle bonded to the underside of the valley cover, and from there a tube runs up from this baffle into the lower housing of the super charger beneath the by-pass butterfly as you can see in jcthornes pictures. This is where the majority of the oil mist/vapors and other damaging compounds from the combustion process enter the intake air charge. You cannot just block this point of ingress without providing for another path or the crankcase pressure will back up and escape "out the in", or back through the dry sump tank and out into the main intake air box assy and be drawn in upstream of the throttle body. You can see GM molded in "sump" depressions under each fitting to the air box assy to trap some of this oil, and also has cast in a deep sump just inside the throttle body mount location to also collect this oil.

So what we do is cap/plug this tube in the bottom of the SC assy, use the drivers side valve cover as the evacuation point for the foul/dirty vapors and pressure, and remove the cleanside line that did run to the drivers side valve cover. This provides complete through flushing, so the entire crankcase is flushed as well as clean in, foul out as the video shows. The line that did run to the drivers side that was removed, the open barb near the oil tank (see jcthornes pics) is then extended and run to a "T: that you add to either of the hard plastic lines connecting to the passenger side valve cover (failure to do this could result in pressure building in the tank and backing oil up into the intake, so this is important). Now, back to the drivers side. An OEM 90* connector is included in the kit so you simply snap it on and that will then run to the center of the oil separator (can). Foul vapors are exited from the crankcase to the can. Just below this is the hard line that provides vacuum to the brake booster is then used to provide primary evacuation suction to the system (as we capped the tube under the SC) so a "T" is added here. Simply cut that line, and use a heat gun or hair dryer to soften this plastic line after cutting it and the 3/8" T will slide into it and as it cools it shrinks and seals. Then you run a hose from it to one of the outlets (Elite Engineering E2, or new E2-X as well as the Colorado Speed systems install and configure the same way, all just appear different in looks.) with a oneway checkvalve inline flowing AWAY from the can. The checkvalves prevent any back-flow and separate the outlet suction sources used for evacuation. (See jcthornes pics). All of the mentioned cans use these high quality billet check valves.

Then the second outlet from the can, with checkvalve flowing away from the can, will connect to the coupler that attaches the TB to the main intake air tube (see pics). This will provide added evacuation suction when needed the most at WOT and hard driving such as track events. The patented internal design has been proven to trap 95-98% of the oil and other damaging compounds that bake onto the intake valves causing the power and fuel economy damaging deposits shown here: (Look close at the vales as you can see where the deposits are already wearing the guides at only 5500 miles and the amount of coking is already enough to obstruct air flow).


As an option for those that run hard and track their car you can add the billet cleanside separator as well that replaces the oil fill cap on the oil tank, and replaces is routed to the air box so it traps the oil mist from backing into the air box.

So, in closing, this system stops the ingestion of nearly all the oil and other compounds you do not want in the intake air charge, provides added evacuation under hard driving when it is needed most, retains 100% closed system for emission compliance (NOT CA CARB cert yet, but coming), does not void factory warranty in the US, and will extend engine life by eliminating the added wear not only to the valve guides, but also by more effectively removing the damaging compounds from the crankcase. It also will NOT casue accelerated wear and damage to the engine by allowing most of these damaging compounds to remain in the crankcase as a "breathered" system will. or worse, a system with open hoses down to the ground as the old draft tubes of the old days, and always pulls vacuum on the crankcase eliminating ring flutter and power robbing pressure "vented" systems allow/cause.

Hope this helps!

 

We will post pictures of the new systems in the next few days for all.

What Elite Engineering has done is go further than most any we have seen (and our own system as well) is spend the time & money to get actual PCV system Automotive Engineers involved to create the most effective systems available for most any application, and then put in months of testing independently to verify the results. They are also conducting (again, independently) side by side tests with most every well known catchcan on the market today by first installing the can to compare first inline, and then the "new" separators inline AFTER the first can does it's best to trap the oil and other compounds, then after a set amount of miles driven, it is done in reverse and the first can is then installed inline behind the new separators. To date, no can has shown to catch more than 40-45% of the total passing through, and the new separators trap as much as twice what the first cans did showing how no matter what they look like in appearance, most let far more oil to pass through than they capture. Done in reverse, almost no oil gets past these new designs (to be 100% effective you have to move to a centrifuge style industrial separator).


Ask any questions you may have on any part of this.

Thanks Diasuke for the thread!

 

I will absolutely defer to your better judgement on knowledge of the issue. A thread with a full break down of the information Plus a listing of possible products (with some discussion about why how they are better) would be great for everyone. Ive been trying to find such information since I got my car dec 7th. I want to get a system, just dont know which one and I know that many are asking the same question. This isnt an exhaust which can be based on preference etc. I view it as a more critical item for which I need to make the right choice.