Dropped
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 248
Likes: 11
From: Hollywood Florida
St. Jude Donor '15
Thanks for the info Steve - duly noted. By eye - and not a good barometer admittedly - I'm not seeing much - same with any increased negative camber. But again alignment will be checked VERY soon.
Thanks again for the detailed heads up.
Thanks again for the detailed heads up.
This is from experience. I started doing my own alignments because you never know what you'll get from a commercial shop.
If you drive the car with the rear toed out the back end tends to wander. If you are cornering, as you try to feed power back in from the apex, the weighted tire (the outside rear, in this case) will try to increase the radius of the turn in comparison to the front because the thrust direction is to the outside of the turn, which will likely result in a spin.
I have experimented with a lot of unorthodox alignment specifications to see if I could improve lap times. I tried toe out at the rear and I gave up on that immediately as I found it to be undriveable. Some FWD cars do improve with rear toe out, so it was worth trying.
As for which cars will need alignment and which ones won't, it depends on how much the car is being lowered and where the other specifications were before you start. I don't think you would ever find a car that does the opposite, though. I'm just saying that, were it my car, I wouldn't be driving it for possibly weeks after doing this if for no other reason than the cost of rear tires.
I would really recommend that you check the alignment on your car shortly after purchase. I plan on trying to talk the dealer of my next purchase into doing that at a time of my choosing as a part of the deal. Most of the cars I have purchased from GM were out of spec in some way (including trucks), so, especially with the Vette, you're not getting full value for your money because the car doesn't handle the way it's intended to.
If you drive the car with the rear toed out the back end tends to wander. If you are cornering, as you try to feed power back in from the apex, the weighted tire (the outside rear, in this case) will try to increase the radius of the turn in comparison to the front because the thrust direction is to the outside of the turn, which will likely result in a spin.
I have experimented with a lot of unorthodox alignment specifications to see if I could improve lap times. I tried toe out at the rear and I gave up on that immediately as I found it to be undriveable. Some FWD cars do improve with rear toe out, so it was worth trying.
As for which cars will need alignment and which ones won't, it depends on how much the car is being lowered and where the other specifications were before you start. I don't think you would ever find a car that does the opposite, though. I'm just saying that, were it my car, I wouldn't be driving it for possibly weeks after doing this if for no other reason than the cost of rear tires.
I would really recommend that you check the alignment on your car shortly after purchase. I plan on trying to talk the dealer of my next purchase into doing that at a time of my choosing as a part of the deal. Most of the cars I have purchased from GM were out of spec in some way (including trucks), so, especially with the Vette, you're not getting full value for your money because the car doesn't handle the way it's intended to.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,074
Likes: 309
You're welcome. You can actually see quite a bit by eye-balling the setup. Camber can be estimated, but you can also gauge toe settings by sighting along the rim of the wheel. With a little practice you'll be able to tell whether the toe is in or out, and that is critical for good handling.,
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 248
Likes: 11
From: Hollywood Florida
St. Jude Donor '15
So just had to check 
so I ran a long straight edge along the floor just to give my eye a decent reference point and I am seeing (I think) the very slightest of toe in - I mean almost discernible.
I took some detailed pics before the drop and it looks to me like camber is not changed - if it is its negligible.
None the less I will have the alignment checked. I'm not thrilled with the prospect of the dealer doing it because I THINK they farm it out so I will find a good shop down here.
so I ran a long straight edge along the floor just to give my eye a decent reference point and I am seeing (I think) the very slightest of toe in - I mean almost discernible.I took some detailed pics before the drop and it looks to me like camber is not changed - if it is its negligible.
None the less I will have the alignment checked. I'm not thrilled with the prospect of the dealer doing it because I THINK they farm it out so I will find a good shop down here.
You're welcome. You can actually see quite a bit by eye-balling the setup. Camber can be estimated, but you can also gauge toe settings by sighting along the rim of the wheel. With a little practice you'll be able to tell whether the toe is in or out, and that is critical for good handling.,
Last edited by innerconx; Nov 3, 2015 at 01:15 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,847
Likes: 795
From: Longview Texas
You're welcome. You can actually see quite a bit by eye-balling the setup. Camber can be estimated, but you can also gauge toe settings by sighting along the rim of the wheel. With a little practice you'll be able to tell whether the toe is in or out, and that is critical for good handling.,
As you said, many GM cars are out of alignment off the truck..
I also have a toe-in tram bar that I can do a rough check on toe. A change in toe will change camber too.
Last edited by TEXHAWK0; Nov 4, 2015 at 06:04 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,074
Likes: 309
big changes in anything else, but for me, toe was the most critical adjustment. The hard part is getting the front and rear symmetrical from the same centerline reference. If you want to try to do that, be prepared to spend the better part of a day.
