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Don't do it. There are many areas under the hood that should not be exposed to water. I have found Simple Green to be mildly corrosive to some types of metal and shiny fittings on hoses may end up looking bad. Unless you took your car thru a swamp there is no need to do this. Waxing the car is a less harmful pastime.
I use Simple green to clean engines. As long as they aren't hot when you spray it on and don't let it sit for a while it does a good job. Just don't use purple cleaner. It reacts with the aluminum.
I just used a mixture of 50% Simple Green and 50% Water to soak the engine compartment yesterday. Sprayed everything in sight and anywhere where I could aim the spray from the bottle. Let it sit for about 10 minutes then hosed down the engine compartment to rinse everything off. Used a gentle spray from the hose. Once it was rinsed off I closed the hood, started the engine and let it idle while I washed the rest of the car. Once done washing I dried the car and shut off the engine. Other than some puddles of water on top of the S/C everything was pretty much dry.A couple of drops here and there. Engine heat goes a long way toward drying the engine compartment and the engine ran great the whole time. When I shut off the engine the oil temp was up to 186 which is just right for checking the oil level in the dry sump.
I have been washing all of my engines this way for around 30 years with no issues. As long as you don't use a high pressure spray that can force itself past the standard seals in the electrical connectors no harm will be done. Simple Green is an effective cleaner that gets rid of grease and dirt and is actually bio-degradeable.
I just used a mixture of 50% Simple Green and 50% Water to soak the engine compartment yesterday. Sprayed everything in sight and anywhere where I could aim the spray from the bottle. Let it sit for about 10 minutes then hosed down the engine compartment to rinse everything off. Used a gentle spray from the hose. Once it was rinsed off I closed the hood, started the engine and let it idle while I washed the rest of the car. Once done washing I dried the car and shut off the engine. Other than some puddles of water on top of the S/C everything was pretty much dry.A couple of drops here and there. Engine heat goes a long way toward drying the engine compartment and the engine ran great the whole time. When I shut off the engine the oil temp was up to 186 which is just right for checking the oil level in the dry sump.
I have been washing all of my engines this way for around 30 years with no issues. As long as you don't use a high pressure spray that can force itself past the standard seals in the electrical connectors no harm will be done. Simple Green is an effective cleaner that gets rid of grease and dirt and is actually bio-degradeable.
I wouldn't go crazy and pressure wash, but they're built to be weather tight.
As someone who used to own an honest-to-goodness Optispark, I say wash away. Back in the Optispark days someone would spill a Coke at the intersection you were waiting at and it'd misfire and stall.
I wouldn't go crazy and pressure wash, but they're built to be weather tight.
As someone who used to own an honest-to-goodness Optispark, I say wash away. Back in the Optispark days someone would spill a Coke at the intersection you were waiting at and it'd misfire and stall.
The Optispark was an epic failure which I don't understand. With all of the environmental testing GM does how did they miss that?
The advice to not use high pressure is good, otherwise I think you'll be ok to wash the engine.
Extreme Simple Green® Motorsports Cleaner & Degreaser says right on the bottle non-corrosive.
"Ideal for use on aluminum, chrome, titanium and other high-tech alloys, painted and gel-coated surfaces, anodized and electroplated parts, carbon fiber, a variety of metals, plastics, rubber and much more."
Extreme Simple Green® Motorsports Cleaner & Degreaser says right on the bottle non-corrosive.
"Ideal for use on aluminum, chrome, titanium and other high-tech alloys, painted and gel-coated surfaces, anodized and electroplated parts, carbon fiber, a variety of metals, plastics, rubber and much more."
I wouldn't go crazy and pressure wash, but they're built to be weather tight.
As someone who used to own an honest-to-goodness Optispark, I say wash away. Back in the Optispark days someone would spill a Coke at the intersection you were waiting at and it'd misfire and stall.
And the major problems with the OptiPuke were water vapor not so much water. Still have a few new ones in the garage for my 93s. My experience would be to wash it anytime the motor is cold. The weatherpaks keep out water. They have a harder time keeping out water vapor. And yes I still successfully wash the C4s with simple green and water but only on a cold engine and I also wouldn't turn it on to heat it up til it has a chance to air dry.
Do we have anything as fragile as the OptiPuke on the C7Zs?
I would not do it just wipe down with a wet towel.
Originally Posted by Bad Dad
HAND WHIPE ONLY biweekly will keep it good,, other than that it should be a 5.3 work horse like my Tahoe
Originally Posted by lordofwar
The problem with that is when you have 5K miles on the engine with at least 1500 track miles and the car has sat on and driven over dirt paddocks there is plenty of dust, grass, dirt and spilled oil in places where you can't get your hand in to wipe it down. Simple Green and water reach those places while your fingers are 8 or 9 inches away. This isn't a 1960s engine where you can even clean under the exhaust manifolds. If you want it clean, cleaned properly and cleaned quickly you can't afford to be **** about things.