This just started last night for the first time since I've had the car. Any positive advice would be appreciated.

During a normal drive, after 5 minutes or so at a regular speed, the stability control light would flash on a few times then all the following warning lights would come on solid:

Stability Control
ABS
Parking Brake
Electric Parking Brake Light
"Service Rear Axle"
"Service Suspension"

Also the rear camera and cruise control would no longer function.

I could stop the car, turn it off, turn it back on, and everything would go away on and look normal on the dash. After a short time driving it, they would all come back on

So this morning I disconnected the negative lead to the battery for about 10 minutes, and while it was disconnected I tightened every battery connection I could see. I then reconnected the negative terminal and took it for a test drive. It happened again within 5 minutes. So I started doing some testing to see what conditions caused the problem. I discovered that if I jerked the steering wheel to the left nothing happened. But if I jerked it to the right the stability control light and service rear axle would flash on then back off. Once it happened 3 times though then all the lights would come on again and do everything I described above. This happened regardless of the speed I was going.

So any advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

I'm afraid a trip to the dealer is in order and I don't see a shortcut. I know that's not what you were hoping to hear, but...

Probably a wheel speed or steering angle sensor (or similar) gone bad, and the computer realizes it, so it turns off all of those features which are dependent on it, hence the warnings.

You could check the connections at the wheel speed sensors, steering rack, and so on, but it's a long shot.

 

I'm out......you already did the battery trick.

 

I gotta agree with Dave on this. It could even be the clock spring inside the column that all the wiring is attached to. It is not something you want to mess with as even the air bag wiring is in this. Let the dealer screw with it.

 

ruh roh ---


Back in the day Rodney Dangerfield's dealership mechanic told him the fix was not to jerk on it.

In all seriousness .. I hope it is a fast and easy fix at the dealer.

 

GM Field Service Engineer tested my car and confirmed a chassis module was losing communication and caused the problems you indicate. Guy in Wisconsin having chassis module changed as well. Try getting in 3rd and jumping on it hard and slam to 4th. When I do that I get all the warnings plus a buzzing in my speakers. I will let you know my outcome on Monday.

 

Made it to the dealer and it was the chassis control module like goshendad said. They've ordered a new one and will put it on Monday or Tuesday so I'll let you know the outcome. Thanks everyone for your input!

 

I'm getting mine done Monday. Keep in touch so we can both confirm we are good.

 

dealership put a new chassis control module and reprogrammed it said it was good to go. I drove it for five minutes down the road and all the warning lights came back on exactly as it did before I took it there. So whatever they did did not fix it. I am currently in the process of taking it to weapon X motorsports to put it back in the hands of the experts so that they can get it all figured out .

 

Its all bullshit! I am frustrated as hell myself. The Chassis Control module did not work for me either but the dealer figured that out before giving the car back. I reached out to GM Corporate to vent. These people make the ******* cars and should know EXACTLY what is wrong with it.

 

The guys at WXM figured it out. It was a loose wiring harness that had gotten next to the header and was shorting out. Just FYI.

 

Had WXM previously put aftermarket headers on your car?

 

Dealer has now had my car for 1 month. the stabilitrack, service rear axle, rear axle system off, limp mode still occurring after car warms up and i get on it just a little. when the failure starts the radio either powers off temporarily or static, then warning lights come on. We even replaced the MAF with one for a "CAI" from Granatelli Motorsports but nothing changed. I am at a loss as GM on this site is useless. There is nobody above the Dealer to talk to although i am told my car is a top priority!! Yea right.

 

Thus the difference between the dudes at a dealer working at a job and a shop with passion. Dealer is just following protocal, what their computers tell them to do next and guys at WXM are working the problem logically and with a motorhead we're all over that mentality.

 

Sorry to hear that. In California, if the car is less than 18 months old and the dealer can not fix the car within 30 days, you can claim lemon. Not sure about your state and I hope your car gets fixed soon and don't have to take any action though.

 

The symptoms sound more like a loose ground somewhere. The first place to check would be where the battery ground cable connects to the frame. Then start checking the ground points at all the other locations on the car. Since the body is plastic they can't use the body as a ground like they can on metal cars. This leaves them with running ground wires from the various circuits to common ground points on the car. All it takes is for one of those common ground points to be loose or corroded and a number of circuits could be affected. The battery ground point can cause the most grief.

If a Ground isn't causing the problems then it might be a voltage source coming from one of the two electrical centers.

My rule of thumb is if weird things are happening or multiple systems that aren't related to each other are failing the first thing to do is check grounds and then voltages. It can be very difficult to find a voltage or ground problem since it involves lots of wires, splices, connectors, bolts and washers. Something can be shorting a wire/harness or something may have impacted a wire/harness and caused an open circuit.

Shorts are very hard to locate even when they know a short is the problem and opens can be hidden in places where a dealer mechanic might not look because they weren't expecting somebody else to do something in that area. The owner or another worker can unknowingly cause shorts/opens when they are doing something on the car and don't realize they pinched a wire or didn't fasten back into its holder properly.

Once you get past these simple but tough things then you get into the system of systems problems which can strain the capabilities of most automotive mechanics. Now they are in the world of debugging modules that are inter connected on a LAN and pass data back and forth.

Bill

 

Checking into that.Thanks

 

Thanks so much Bill. We changed out the MAF as a last resort recommended by Granatelli Motorsports but that did nothing. The Tech at the Dealer is going through the modules as i have been assured that the GM Field Engineer already checked all the grounds and harness. The car has been with the Dealer since Nov 15th! I added the Halltech CAI and had American Racing headers installed at Carlisle and a quick tune by ECS which GM knows about. im confident they are well past that as they have not mentioned that this is related in any way. I just want the car fixed or i will have to switch to something else to satisy my needs at the track. Very frustrating but i very much appreciate the information you provided and will certainly pass it along.

 

They may agrees that those things shouldn't cause the problems but the actual installation could be a cause. I had the metal brake lines replaced on my Tahoe and the mechanic doing the work had to drop part of the fuel lines to get to the brake lines. The vehicle is a flex fuel vehicle and there is a fuel composition sensor in that part of the fuel system. When he reinstalled everything he thought he had pushed the wiring harness push pin retainer back into place but it didn't really fasten properly. When I drove away from the shop a check engine light came on. That harness had dropped onto the front drive shaft of the AWD system and wrapped around it tearing the harness apart. It only took what was a simple mistake to cause the problem which was originally thought to be due to the $600 fuel sensor going bad.

Bill

 

i had the headers and tune in August and then tracked the car 4 times after that and the car was amazing. Did not start having an issue until October.