wjresq

Having now had the DSC Controller on my 2015 Z06 for a couple of weeks, here are my observations:

1. The Controller, in combination with proper tire pressure, correct ride height at all four corners, and a front and rear alignment to DSC's specs (including rear caster) - and no dealer in SoCal except Rydell in Northridge seems to have the tools to set rear caster - makes a tremendous difference in keeping the rear wheels planted under aggressive acceleration. The wheelspin and rear kick-out problems that I was having are largely gone and the fun is back.

2. I got the device with the DSC OEM file. When driving on the bumpy LA freeways (particularly the 110 in and out of downtown LA), I could not tell that much difference between Tour and Sport.

3. I then downloaded and installed the Tour Plush file. That made more of a difference between the two settings, as Tour is now more compliant than Sport. "Plush" is a bit of a misnomer, however, as both Tour and Sport still provide a firm sports car ride, as one would expect.

4. I'm very happy with the product. Installation is easy once you figure out the rather dark close-up pictures on the installation sheet and where the two rubber release tabs are on the top of the controller tray in the car. It was not possible for me with one hand to release both tabs and pull the OEM controller out of the tray. What worked was to put a small screwdriver under the end of the controller in the tray and put a little outward pressure on it as you release the closest tab. That will pop the end out of the tray. Pushing back on the other rubber tab then pops the OEM controller completely out. Also, when installing the DSC controller into the cable socket, I used a bit of SuperLube on the outside of the DSC plug instead of the WD40 or silicon spray mentioned in the instructions, as WD40 is not really a lubricant and SL has better water sealing properties in any event. I also did not take the front wheel off and instead just turned it inward. I also put a piece of electrical tape over the plastic cap that covers the USB port to tape it down to the board as it did not look to me that the cap was tight enough not to fall off from vibration of the car.

rikhek

Most try to get the OEM controller out of the OEM plastic tray/holder and then release the factory wiring harness. I found it much easier to remove the tray/holder with the OEM controller left in place. I believe there is one ~ 12mm bolt holding the holder to the inner fender. Much easier to remove the bolt then raise it up about an inch to release it and pull it out. You have to raise it up a bit as there is a ~ 1" tang on the plastic holder that inserts and slides down on a notch. If you don't raise it up the height of the tang in the notch it won't pull back and out.

I also seem to remember there is a different, unrelated electrical relay/connector mounted sort of in the way of the bolt. I removed this connector to get easier access to the box. This connector is removed by sliding it out of it's mount. It mounts in/on two parallel guides which are like two "rails".

The wiring harness is secured to the controller by a rotating, locking lever. Pivot the lever up and it pops right out. Spray the connections as in the DSC instructions prior to installing the DSC controller.

Install in the reverse. Put the DSC controller in the factory holder and then reinstall and bolt the holder in place.

Really a piece of cake and I'm making it sound more complicated than it is. Hardest part was figuring out that the connector in the way is removed by sliding it on the "rails" that secure it and that the factory controller holder has a tang requiring lifting up before pulling it away from the fender and out.

Also, as stated above removing the wheel does not offer any benefit as just turning all the way to the left gives more than enough room. After removing the splash guard you also have to only remove 3 or 4 fender liner bolts/screws and fold the liner back to get access. I also DID NOT remove any of the push pins and had lots of room.

EDIT: I just saw Dif provided a tutorial with pictures for the install method I described above. He did a better job at it than I. Scroll down to Post #12 in the following thread to see his tutorial.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1594175754


Rick

spearfish25

Controller was awesome at Sebring this weekend. I ran the Sport shock calibration in the Track setting and it just ate up the bumps. Never got around to trying the Tour calibration since things were so good.

mdz06vetter

I let Mike do my install! (VBG)

rikhek

Sport 1 or Sport 2?

c5racr1

Is there any change to the track file, if I download the tour plush file?

fleming23

Nope.

spearfish25

I was using Sport 1. I never feel like it's impacting my experience. I was considering Sport 2 or a Race since it's still pretty easy to spin in Sport 1 as my friend demonstrated when he hit dirt from an earlier incident on track. No surface flag from the corner worker either.

rikhek

Last February I raced Sebring in the PCA series GT1 class in a 911T 997.2 with the DSC Sport Controller and TracTive shocks. I'm still amazed at how the DSC system smoothed out the notoriously bumpy Sebring surface.

I can't put into words the difference at Sebring with the DSC system and this was in a full blown race car which are very stiffly sprung. A person would have to drive the race car with and without the system to really appreciate the transformation. Words don't do the improved performance justice.

I picked up 2 seconds off the truck and was just cruising around like I was on a Sunday drive. Amazing experience as I had raced it the prior year in the same car and was beat damn near to death after 5 track days in a row...

Rick

Adam Silver05

I know that corner well. I high sided a 1996 CBR 900 there in 1999. It was a painful situation and the concussion made me ask the same question over and over. It was amusing because I was on the last lap of the session and I couldn't figure out which way to go when I got back to the edge of the track. Black and yellow parts were to my right so I went left.

Adam Silver05

My stock controller was bolted in with a single bolt in the lower corner. If I didn't remove the bolt the controller would never have come out.
​​​

BigDogMark

How much longer for wireless to work?

mdz06vetter

Know Mike was at Road Atlanta all week testing - not sure if he is back home yet or not. If he is watching am sure he will check in. Will be stopping by TPC Racing this afternoon after work.

DRTBYK

I just received an email from Jordan @ DSC and he says...
Cheers,

BigDogMark

Thanks, just been waiting for months for those keys.

Bullet Tooth

I could screw up a wet dream and apparently I have. I installed the controller this weekend and I turned the car on this morning to make sure the plush file was installed as ordered. The install was relatively easy and took under an hour. I could not get my computer to recognize the controller. I went ahead and fired the car up for the first time and the dash lit up with errors for stabilitrack, power steering and rear axle. I took the wheel off again and am now looking at the controller in the wheel well.

It appears to be hooked up correctly but neither the car nor my computer will recognize the controller. Does anyone have any suggestions?

badhabit_wb

Mine came in on Wednesday but I was out of town. I just got in and had a cold so I hadn't bothered to install it. I saw your post so I just opened the box and took the controller out and set everything up. Device manager shows it on my port 5 with the silicon labs driver but I can't communicate with it either. I'm using windows 10 and the port settings are the same on my laptop as on the tuner software. I know they were waiting on a batch of boards to ship mine on Tuesday so it could be a bad batch of boards or we could be doing something wrong. No idea which at this point but I'll keep playing with mine to see if I can get it to connect to the pc. I'll post back if I do get it connected and what I had to do to get it to connect.

Herman

lgsdds

I have had connection problems as well over the past couple of months and since I am local, plan to drive to DSC to try to figure it out. A couple of observations, though. First, I know it is obvious, but after downloading Silabs driver, go to the download and run the install program. I know it seems obvious, but I didn't do it initially. And second, I am using Windows 10 with USB 3.0 ports, and I was told there may be a compatibility issue in that the controller or it's software was designed for USB 2.0. All of the above for what it's worth.

badhabit_wb

I grabbed a windows 10 tablet and it's connecting fine. All the ports on my laptop are usb 3.1 gen 2. You'd think they'd have these controllers so they'd work on a laptop that's a year old. Go figure. I hope they get this sorted out so I can use my laptop to program the thing... It would be nice too if they had a little more information on the programming. I got the tractive shocks and there's no information on how to set it up compared to the stock shocks. I know they're different. Let's hope they get it sorted out.

Bullet Tooth

I am having problems with both the laptop connection (which is a windows 10 surface pro) and it is not recognized by the car. The first problem is a frustration but the second problem is fatal. I'll call dsc tomorrow morning. It seems like someone else had this problem but I can't find the post.