jnc4558

I've done some research about getting my car ready for my first HPDE. I just got back from Spring Mountain school and I am hooked. I will start slow by attending SCCA Track Night in America novice group. I am in Georgia and I have a 2016 automatic (stage 2) Z06 so I am expecting it to overheat.

I have compiled a list of things I think a need to do after reading several posts but I would like recommendations from you all. The list below might be too much or too little. I am not sure, so please give me your suggestions.

I am mostly concerned with brakes. My Z has iron discs and the original pads.

Replace engine oil - Mobil 1 15W50 and overfill it by a quarter. (Replace it again every 8-10 hours of actual track time)
Replace rear axle fluid (Replace it again every 24 hours of track time).
Replace coolant mix 90% water + 10% coolant.
Replace brake fluid with DOT 4 (Most recommended is Motul 8068HL RBF 600 or Castrol SRF).
Bleed brakes before and after track day.
Replace brake pads. Most recommended is Carbotech XP (I have read that Spring Mountain runs stock GM pads and rotors. True???) Do I need to bed the new pads? If I need to do this, would I need to machine the rotor?
Track Alignment.
GMPP brake ducts and backing plates.
Track insurance.
Drop the 'cold' psi to 26 lbs

badhabit_wb

Depending on the mileage and what pads you had on before you will probably need to bed the pads. If the mileage is low you might get by with not sanding or cleaning the rotors. If you go with Carbotech they also have dustless street pads that will work and you won't have to worry about rebedding the brakes. Their street pads and race pads are compatible.
I'd use the srf. I tried the Motul this year and didn't like it as well at VIR. It didn't boil but I had more pedal travel than I liked. YMMV.
There are guys with a lot more experience than me that will probably chime in.
Good luck!

AstroRR

All Spring Mountain's Z06's are Z07 pkg, so yes, they run them the way they came from GM. On the Stingrays, they swap out the pad to Hawks.

thebishman

Most important: drive only in 'M' mode and short shift a little, say around 5,000-5,500 rpm. You'll prevent the A8 from overheating and you'll still be very fast.

Drop the 'cold' psi to 26 lbs btw.

Have fun, and stay hydrated! lol

Bish

jnc4558

My Z has 6500 miles. So before I bed the new pads, I would need to machine the rotors to remove the old (brembo) compound?

Does anyone run hpde with their original pads (non-Z07 package)?

jnc4558

Added to my list.

AVETTE

Your brakes will be fine, many prefer the non ccb due to the extreme expense of pads and rotors. I know several very advanced and pro drivers that run the stock z06 brakes, many due use hawk pads with them. Have fun and be safe. Take time to learn the line. Work on increasing your 'situational awareness' much of that will come with track time. Be progressive in your learning and get instruction especially on new tracks and technical tracks.

Its a great (but expensive) hobby. Enjoy and welcome to the club, see you at the track.

badhabit_wb

If the pad you're going to be using is a lot more aggressive than the stock pads just burnishing the pads may work. The aggressive pad will probably wear the stock pad deposits off. If not a rotor hone will work if you can find one. Scotchbrite and brake cleaner might work but that's a lot of work!
Not sure how well the stock pads will work. A lot depends on how hard you push the car. If it's your first HPDE you might want to just see how well you like it before you change a lot of expensive parts. That said changing your brake fluid is a good idea.
I'd also change the clutch fluid. You can bleed it or there's an alternate way, in one of the stickys, that seems to work well.

jnc4558

Thanks. Indeed expensive. I am planing to do just what you suggested. I will (try) to do a 2 or 3 hpde per year to keep it within budget.

jnc4558

The pads are the original pads. I will see how they do. I will take it easy and learn the lines first.

I have an automatic, do you recommend replacing the AT fluid? Before, after or interval?

davester

Sounds like you have your ducks in a row and are ready to go! Question for the group RE the 26psi cold tire pressures for the stock super sport michelins. Has anyone found a better cold starting pressure for those tires? I tend to hear a lot of tire squealing using that pressure and the factory "track suspension alignment" setting. Wonder if a couple more pounds of cold pressure might be any better?

Adam@Amp'dAutosport.com

As far as brakes no need to machine the rotors. Use some 60 grit sand paper and break clean on the rotors than put your new pads on. XP10 front and XP8 rear are going to work best at your skill level.

Yes change your brake fluid I would say SRF but its expensive on the other hand it may work best for you because beginners tend to over work the brakes.

jnc4558

Thanks Adam. I was afraid I would have to machine them.

schaibaa

If you are running in a novice group then I wouldn't worry about anything. The car is very capable in factory trim. If you start running much faster then brakes become an issue.

thebishman

Dave,

I think that the MPSS are going to be at their best at a hot psi of 32, the same as the MPSC2s. This on track of course. The squealing goes along with them being a street tyre, even an 'Ultra High' performance one.

Certainly starting at 28 psi would be fine, but I'd fine tune the psi based on how much of the tread surface I was actually using. At HPT a couple of weeks ago I started cold with 26 psi in all my tyres except the RF which I dropped to 24 psi as it takes a pounding there. All ended up at 32 psi.

Lastly: make sure you're getting a really good track alignment, especially the rear caster. PM me for a fantastic place here in town to get your car set up if you want to.

Bish

Federot

This. Go out, take it slow and learn.

Doc V.

For your first HPDE event, jnc4558, leave your car as close to its stock configuration as possible. Change the car's brake fluid before the event, certainly, but don't worry about tinkering with brake pads, tire pressures, and alignment. You'll be running in the Novice Group, and establishing a baseline for your car's performance strengths and weaknesses is essential before you start making adjustments.

Focus primarily on your car's most important performance component: the driver. Short of a mechanical issue, your car is incapable of doing anything incorrectly by itself. Your inputs with your car's load transferring devices--with the steering wheel, the throttle, the brake pedal, and the transmission--will determine the car's attitude and balance on the track.

Did your car's brakes fade because of inadequate brake pads or because you abused the brakes? Did the car understeer on corner exit because of questionable tire pressures or because of aggressive steering angle past a corner's apex? Did the car oversteer on corner exit because of the stock alignment or because of excessive throttle application? By concentrating on what you do behind the wheel of your car, you'll be able to assess your and your car's performance more effectively.

Just my two cents....

jnc4558

Very sound advice. Thanks

Bill Dearborn

Bill

Thomasmoto

If you are going for maximum performance you should consider the Powerstop Track Day pads and rotors. If you can't swing the rotors right now at least change your pads. There are other brands of pads, but my car works awesome with the Powerstop's. You are also correct about the brake fluid= changing it is a MUST DO!
The most important thing in enjoying and improving this kind of driving is seat time. The more you get, the better you will be. Warning though...this is habit forming. Have fun. Also since this is your " first time " you may not have the over heating problem as that usually occurs as your driving gets better and you begin to drive your car at its maximum.
JMHO