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I have plugged both of my runflat front tires 'on the car' (just turn the tire to where you can get to it and turn the tire out 'too' if it is the front) with the type of kit that you run a round file type tool through the hole to clean and open the hole enough to insert the threaded style plug about 2/3 of the way in. They have been doing just fine (0 air loss) for thousands of miles now.
This is the actual kit (Victor Brand) I used (with 'self' supplied razor blade to cut the excess plug off)
Note: There are two plugs missing. Oh, I keep this very small kit & a quality small air pump & pliers in the rear cubby hatch.
I have the same kit and small air pump also.better than a possible tow and wrecking the car.
Following up on this for anyone else who might be in the same position.
Driving it the 40 or so miles did mess up the tire, so it was no good.
Dealer on Frank Lloyd Wright Blvd in Scottsdale also nicked the wheel about 3/4 of an inch long, painted it to hide what they did and won't return my call
They have Touch-less tire mounting machines which would be a good thing to use if worried about the shop jockey being careless.
I have had my 2 new MPSS front runflats and new OEM chrome rims mounted on such a machine. Then I had the rims & tires 'Road Force' balanced which usually costs more. Well a buddy of mine has had his tires balanced both ways i.e. Standard rotating wheel balancing machine and Road Force and according to him it did not make a damn bit of difference in the ride. My rear 18" MT drag radials are not road force balanced and they seem to be fine.
I just got 2 big screws in one rear tire yesterday, with only 5,000 miles on the car. I was fortunate to find a slightly used matching rear MPSS ZP tire (w/6,000 miles on it) for $200 and it has the same wear as my original tires, so a near perfect match. I had the tire checked out and it is in perfect condition. Sometimes you can find some deals on tires from take-offs.
I still have the old tire w/screws on the car and will drive it to the dealer to install new tire in a couple days. I personally would not chance a patch on these run flat tires. I would rather have peace of mind.
If a plug or patch fails! than your back to running on a runflat.
Here the way I see it. If you plug and/or patch a runflat and it starts to leak you will see the low tire pressure warning or if the air is lost quickly than you are back to running on a runflat.
The last time that I plugged one of my front runflats the tire pressures all around the day before were perfect. However the next day when I started the car I got a low tire pressure warning on the left front of 10 psi so I rolled the wheel around and turned the tire out so the screw was out in the open. I pulled the screw and plugged it.
PS: When 'looking' at that new runflat I was hoping the screw did not penetrate the inside of the tire, then I said to myself; you "idiot" the dash said 10 psi.
Last edited by C7/Z06 Man; Dec 14, 2017 at 11:15 PM.
Best thing to do is what I just did, get tire insurance from the dealer. I just ended up replacing with a new rear tire ($500). For $69, I just bought the insurance and it covers 3 years up to 3/32 thread life. Had I had the insurance I would have just been given a new tire.
Oh, I keep this very small kit & a quality small air pump & pliers in the rear cubby hatch. 
