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I know,... another thread on lowering on stock bolts.. but, i don't think ive seen this addressed.
I have the car up in my frame rack, i just did my stage 3 lip, now i'm thinkiing i should lower the car.
From what i've seen it seems everyone is lowering the car all the way, i'd like to NOT do this. My question is, can the bolts be lowered in increments? If not, how do i make sure the car is lowered evenly on each side? I really don't think i want to go all the way down.
I haven't done my C7Z but the way I did my C5Z was put the car on electronic scales, write down the wheel weights, then I lowered mine all the way down & made sure I still had the same wheel weights as it came from the factory (That told me I lowered it evenly). I don't know if putting the car on scales is necessary but Im OCD & thats how I did my C5Z.
Originally Posted by trevor90
I know,... another thread on lowering on stock bolts.. but, i don't think ive seen this addressed.
I have the car up in my frame rack, i just did my stage 3 lip, now i'm thinkiing i should lower the car.
From what i've seen it seems everyone is lowering the car all the way, i'd like to NOT do this. My question is, can the bolts be lowered in increments? If not, how do i make sure the car is lowered evenly on each side? I really don't think i want to go all the way down.
I had the dealer today lower my Z 3/4 of an inch.
By the time it settles, it might be a total of one inch.
Not sure if I want to go lower just yet...will wait and see.
Should be able to just measure the height of the bolt protruding through the top of the hole, no?
Or just crank it all the way up, line the bolt with a sharpie, and count the number of full turns you back it down..?
I had the dealer today lower my Z 3/4 of an inch.
By the time it settles, it might be a total of one inch.
Not sure if I want to go lower just yet...will wait and see.
Isn't it crazy the variance in dealerships... My local dealership (which isn't where I purchased), said they won't touch the lowering bolts - and their reasoning was that by them doing so, it would void any warrantied suspension issues.
I did not lower mine all the way, just enough to eliminate that 4-wheeler look. Also put in a slight nose-down rake (1/4" lower in front). Total drop about 1" (it will sink a bit further with a little time/mileage), measured from top of wheel arch to ground. Adjustment increments are infinite, as in you can turn the bolt as little or as much as you like. I did not use corner scales to make the adjustment, just a tape measure. After lowering, I checked and the corner weights were within 20 lbs. If you're going to track the car, sit in it and have someone else read the corner scales.
I then had a 4 wheel alignment done. Happy with look and ride, no issues with scraping.
“...And, as posted elsewhere, each 360 degree turn results in a 0.0791 height adjustment; ergo, a 540 degrees of turn will give you 1/8" difference. (John ‘Elegant’).
Isn't it crazy the variance in dealerships... My local dealership (which isn't where I purchased), said they won't touch the lowering bolts - and their reasoning was that by them doing so, it would void any warrantied suspension issues.
I've heard that before about "voiding warranty."
The funny thing is GM built height adjustment in to the car.