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And this, kiddies, is why we don't run too much negative camber on the road. No, it's not due to toe (which is 0). It's the negative camber. God. Dammit!
And this, kiddies, is why we don't run too much negative camber on the road. No, it's not due to toe (which is 0). It's the negative camber. God. Dammit!
The one on the right isn't looking any better.
Is that with the factory alignment? I have yet to see any tire worn incorrectly on any of my Corvette's.
Do you remember the specs to which you had it aligned? Was it the GM track alignment spec, one of the DSC specs, or your own? I'm getting my alignment done Friday and haven't yet decided on how aggressive I want to get.
Thanks
Do you remember the specs to which you had it aligned? Was it the GM track alignment spec, one of the DSC specs, or your own? I'm getting my alignment done Friday and haven't yet decided on how aggressive I want to get.
Thanks, how many miles did you have on the alignment? I was going to get it set close to your settings but now I’m reconsidering and maybe I’ll split the difference between DSC street/occasional track settings and their street/ heavy track settings.
Last edited by rico750sxi; Aug 13, 2018 at 05:03 PM.
Thanks, how many miles did you have on the alignment? I was going to get it set close to your settings but now I’m reconsidering and maybe I’ll split the difference between DSC street/occasional track settings and their street/ heavy track settings.
I did a combined total of 10,000 miles with my front alignment at -2.2 and my rears at -1.8; 8,000 of those miles on the original MPSS. I never experienced ANY increased wear on the inside of the front tyres; in fact wear was equal across the face of the tyres.
Check your alignment settings, especially the toe.
From: Syracuse-Central Square New York Winer of the all Corvette race WGI 8/23!
JVP, that is not common. We run about the same camber as Bish on the street and have set up many others similar. I would be checking wheel bearings and ball joints next as you probably will being a tech contributor. We had an older Volvo in a few years back the factory spec for the rear camber was -2.4 degrees..... factory! Please post any odd findings if any as your alignment numbers look fine.
The caster on both fronts was set at plus 7.2. From the factory it was at caster 7.8.
Your left front is plus 7.9 and right front is minus 8.2. That’s very odd. While it seems camber would cause your tire problem maybe tou hit something on the right front jolting caster out of whack and the way the tire is loaded during a turn ruined your tire.
Last edited by Mr. Gizmo; Aug 14, 2018 at 10:15 AM.
While it seems camber would cause your tire problem maybe tou hit something on the right front jolting caster out of whack and the way the tire is loaded during a turn ruined your tire.
Five thousand street miles(!) shouldn't have caused that, though. Again: these are my street tires; they've never been on a track. I have the Cup2s for that.
Five thousand street miles(!) shouldn't have caused that, though. Again: these are my street tires; they've never been on a track. I have the Cup2s for that.
keep us posted on the problem. These cars are heavy , eat tires and wheels/suspension are fragile. Running over an ant messes them up. So it’s not surprising. Especially with the radical difference in caster from side to side. That doesn’t seem right.
I run -3.5 degree of camber on my autox car and I am not getting anything like that. I drive to each events and not trailered so it should add up to few thousand miles. I think toe wear causes that type of wear on the edge. You may want to ask the shop which did your alignment to see if their machine is calibrated.
I still haven't gotten the car on an alignment rack to figure out what's going on and whether it's still the same as before. I'm starting to believe that it may have magically adjusted itself since the camber blocks were install back in April of 2017. I've been dealing with annoying alignment issues since owning the car and I've never gotten them nailed down; I mistakenly thought I had once the blocks were installed.
This, combined with the clunk I hear when I go over a bump. I've tried recording it and uploading it here on the forums, but everyone says I'm crazy and there's no noise. It's there. Any time the car launches over a speed bump (suspension extends) and lands (suspension compresses) there's a rattle that I hear from the front end. My service folks have never been able to reproduce it and they insist everything's fine.
I suspect these two things are related, but when it comes to suspension: I'm not sure where to look (other than under the car. ). I can put the car in the air as I have a 2-post lift here at the house. The rattle has been there since I purchased the car, so it has nothing to do with the camber blocks that were installed. Since we know the camber can't adjust itself at the upper and/or lower control arms now, and everyone seems to think it's the toe that's out: where do I look? What things could be moving around that would muck up the toe, and potentially rattle over a bump? Sway bar? Something else?
I had the clunking noise issue on my C6. It was the top hat for the aftermarket shock getting loose.
In terms of your alignment, I would take the car to different shop and get the alignment done. Right after you come home, mark up all alignment related bolts and nuts with a Sharpie so you can check later if they have moved. Your alignment should be bad to start with or something is shifting.
From: Syracuse-Central Square New York Winer of the all Corvette race WGI 8/23!
JVC, Some early C7s had an issue with one of the front ball joints making a noise while turning if I remember correctly. A bad ball joint could change camber and toe. GM may have a tsb on this issue. We check ball joints by lifting the car off the ground 3 or 4 inches and take a long bar for a lot of leverage stick it under the tire and lift. Best done with 2 people as one can watch the ball joint and control arm movement. This duplicates in some ways the car hitting a bump in the road. Also clicking noises in the suspensions have been found to be at the wheel hub surfaces being dirty. I hope this helps. Remember any alignment guy can cheat the numbers you see on the paper..... just saying!!
I put my car up on my lift this morning. Both fronts are in pretty bad shape, but the driver's side is much worse. When the toe was last set, the alignment ship did paint the nut on each side. Neither has moved. So either they set a bad toe value, or something else has moved since then. Bearing in mind they installed camber blocks when they did that alignment, so the camber couldn't have changed. At least: not where the LCAs attach to the cradle.
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Alignment Problems
). I can put the car in the air as I have a 2-post lift here at the house. The rattle has been there since I purchased the car, so it has nothing to do with the camber blocks that were installed. Since we know the camber can't adjust itself at the upper and/or lower control arms now, and everyone seems to think it's the toe that's out: where do I look? What things could be moving around that would muck up the toe, and potentially rattle over a bump? Sway bar? Something else?
