I agree that there is a noticeable improvement when I run the Sunoco GT 260 100 octane fuel. Wish I had been running that fuel on the dyno when I tested with only the BMS and Mamo PTB on my M7 and got 589 rear wheel. Stock plastic intake already flows plenty of air, so going the $80 BMS drop in was a no brainer for me. Ample posts on this forum to demonstrate worth of the BMS. Once I get the new Akro evo exhaust later this summer I will retest and also run the 100 octane. Should put me around 610 rear wheel, I think.

Other thing for me is lightening the car which weighed 3534 on race shop scales. Forged wheels should knock off about 29 lbs. of un-sprung rotational weight and the Akras another 30 lbs, Static weight loss of 59 lbs. and considering in the extra worth of un-sprung rotational weight, about 76 lbs. of "functional" weight loss.

 

I can vouch on my car with HP Tuners, 2017 Z06, that the GM Performance Intake moves more air into the engine, mostly at mid range torque areas. Additionally the IAT's stay the same as stock so there is no spark being pulled. Also, I saw no change in KR behaviors. As for Fuel Trims, they increase in the mid range area as expected with more air moving in but nothing crazy. The good news is that as you get higher in the rev range the fuel trims are very close to 0% which means there is no additional fuel being added during PE events. The above mentioned items is likely why GM doesn't require a tune with their intake.

As for the AEM and others, they likely do add more power, but they need to be tuned for because you will see higher "perceived" intake temps and the Fuel Trims before going into PE mode will be further away from 0% (typically in the positive range) once the car learns. These fuel trims are carried over into PE mode. So this negates some of the gains along with pulling timing because of the air temps. So if you tune the air temp timing table and scale the MAF to be inline then you will def see and keep the gains. The air temp issue, which is the biggest power robber will not be seen quickly or maybe at all with the hood open on the dyno. But drive around town in stop and go traffic during a hot day and you will be shocked at the amount of timing pulled while data logging. Jump on the highway and cool the intake temps down and the car will run real hard. The additional fuel doesn't really hurt performance very much at all honestly. It's the intake temps that is the issue. The car has to be re-calibrated to account for the false change in air temps read at the MAF.

At 111F the car starts to pull timing. Stock vs AEM I saw a 20-30F difference in intake temps. I usually see 90-100F IAT's on the stock airbox and same with the GM Performance airbox. On the AEM I was seeing 120-130F during the same conditions which was pulling 4-5 degrees of timing at part throttle and 2-3 degrees during PE(WOT).


I've tuned quite a few cars so I'm not just making things up here. These are the reasons why I recommend things the way I do here when I offer advice. I can speak from my experience but I can't make anyone listen or believe

 

Why would there be any difference in intake air temps? Both the AFE and stock pull air from the exact same spot and housing in the car.

 

Maybe it doesn't seal as well as the OEM setup in the area as the AFE deosn't have a gasket of any type like the OEM system does where it seals to the fender area? Could also be more heat soak to the aftermarket intake piping and the placement of the MAF sensor, subjecting it to more radiant heat. Varraram system even claims to combat this effect by sucking in air from the crack in the hood as well. Remember, I said in situations such as stop and go traffic when the intake is subject to heat soak. I didn't make a generalization that this is always present.

Obviously the ambient air isn't any different but the ECU sees increased temps and pulls timing in certain scenarios when still using the factory calibration. This is a fact. Take it or leave it.

 

I believe that I read somewhere that Dodge has a system on one of their cars that can divert cool air from the A/C into the intake. Sounds like a good idea to me. Would love for someone to develop a way to do that on our cars. I have a Katech 170 thermostat on the workbench to install. That, in conjunction with the 100 octane I run and the cooler intake air, would make for a hellacious combo.

 

https://www.roadandtrack.com/new-car...ng-power-tech/

It actually uses the A/C system to cool the heat exchangers coolant. Sorta useless for everyday driving, but neat for trying to run the quickest 1/4 mile time. There is no way a typical car A/C system could cool enough air fast enough to actually be cooling the air down in the intake....well at least not without some NASA grade engineering.

 

Anyone done a dyno after a month of having the aFE or any other CAI installed? I believe it will add power initially but I've always been of the opinion that the car will program around anything you add to make it flow more air into the engine. That or you would be creating a potential lean condition inadvertently if it doesn't. You folks who have dynoed after install, did you measure A/F as well? Curious what that looked like compared to stock.

My understanding with the GM CAI was they DO include a tune so you avoid a lean condition. Not to optimize A/F or add power by changing any other parameters but just to allow the car to have better info on airflow expected so it can adjust fuel appropriately and keep it in OEM range. Maybe I'm wrong there, I know they include a tune on the Camaro CAI for that very reason.

 

The tune is only for Camaro's, not Corvettes. Completely different intake. Also, there is info out there on the intakes. A few shops now post up this sort of testing on YouTube but it can be hard to find.