Cruising temps in the z06 not bad for 100* out
06-12-2019, 04:25 PM
#22
Safety Car
Yes on my C6 I always went by when the oil temp hit 100 before I would rev over 3k....the nice parts about the C7 is the tack tells you when the car is warmed up and ready to flog.
06-12-2019, 04:32 PM
#23
06-14-2019, 04:45 PM
#24
Racer
06-14-2019, 04:55 PM
#25
Le Mans Master
06-14-2019, 07:38 PM
#26
Tech Contributor
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Bill
06-29-2019, 01:59 PM
#27
Team Owner
My '19 M7 runs in the low 220's both oil and water, and it hit low 230's in normal driving today, I'm getting more convinced that something is wrong with the cooling system as the fan is screaming 24x7 due to the high temps. I've never seen below 220 since owning the car for the last 2 months.
Last edited by Thunder22; 06-29-2019 at 02:00 PM.
06-29-2019, 02:17 PM
#28
My '19 M7 runs in the low 220's both oil and water, and it hit low 230's in normal driving today, I'm getting more convinced that something is wrong with the cooling system as the fan is screaming 24x7 due to the high temps. I've never seen below 220 since owning the car for the last 2 months.
06-29-2019, 02:29 PM
#29
Team Owner
06-29-2019, 02:35 PM
#30
Of course. Radiator fills from factory aren't exempt from defects.
But then again, I've never had trouble with air in the radiator system and I've drained and refilled mine a ton.
But then again, I've never had trouble with air in the radiator system and I've drained and refilled mine a ton.
Last edited by BrunoTheMellow; 06-29-2019 at 02:35 PM.
06-29-2019, 02:42 PM
#31
Team Owner
ok, thanks.
1 last question - other than the temps being that high, are there any other symptoms or indicators that there might be air in the system that I could look for?
I visually inspected under the hood to make sure that there wasn't anything blocking the radiator or leaking, and everything looks ok.
1 last question - other than the temps being that high, are there any other symptoms or indicators that there might be air in the system that I could look for?
I visually inspected under the hood to make sure that there wasn't anything blocking the radiator or leaking, and everything looks ok.
Last edited by Thunder22; 06-29-2019 at 02:42 PM.
06-29-2019, 02:49 PM
#32
ok, thanks.
1 last question - other than the temps being that high, are there any other symptoms or indicators that there might be air in the system that I could look for?
I visually inspected under the hood to make sure that there wasn't anything blocking the radiator or leaking, and everything looks ok.
1 last question - other than the temps being that high, are there any other symptoms or indicators that there might be air in the system that I could look for?
I visually inspected under the hood to make sure that there wasn't anything blocking the radiator or leaking, and everything looks ok.
What I've done in the past is to pull the hose on the very top of the radiator while filling the system (either radiator or overflow tank side) and made sure it's flowing liquid. That's your air capture back to the tank.
06-29-2019, 03:00 PM
#33
Team Owner
Is your overflow tank up the the little ribs when you open the cap?
What I've done in the past is to pull the hose on the very top of the radiator while filling the system (either radiator or overflow tank side) and made sure it's flowing liquid. That's your air capture back to the tank.
What I've done in the past is to pull the hose on the very top of the radiator while filling the system (either radiator or overflow tank side) and made sure it's flowing liquid. That's your air capture back to the tank.
06-29-2019, 03:46 PM
#34
I have a 16Z M7. 2300maggy, kook LT, 5% pulley, afe intake, x tank, and tuned. Now the fans come on a little earlier than stock. Stock stat. Highway speeds car runs at between 183-188, oil at 180-197. In traffic 190-197, oil at 190-198. Oil hit 201 once. Coming back from Las Vegas at 98-100 degrees at between 90-110 mph plus car ran at 185-188 degrees. Point is all my three C6 Z06’s ran 160 stat. No issues but it seems these LT4 modded motors are happier at warmer operating temps
For me, i don't have the secondary radiator but i don't track the car, and i have NEVER came even remotely close to overheating. Car is pretty stout in street form, at least for the M7. Don't have to deal with the silly A8 hiccups. On and off the track.
Just got done from taking a quick 1 hour drive, boy it's friggin hot outside today. Temp read 102 on the cluster. But feels hotter because it's humid with NO wind LOL. Good way to test your cars cooling.
Temp saw 225F for peak. Hotter than usual (hard to break 220) but i was playing with the RPMs in 3rd and 4th on the last bit of highway stretch home. Car performed flawlessly like usual.
06-30-2019, 01:41 AM
#35
Sr.Random input generator
06-30-2019, 07:47 AM
#36
Melting Slicks
What is kind of screwed up is the HUD shift lights don't go full scale until the water temp is about 176 or so. Below that they come on in the 3-4k rpm range
07-02-2019, 01:41 PM
#37
It seems like the table on the right is the multiplier for the table on the left. So it seems like the base spark table is tuned assuming 194 deg ECT. At 194 deg ECT the correction multiplier is ZERO, so the table on the left is meaningless at this temperature. Do you have the base spark table?
Example: You are at 212 deg ECT, 5120 RPM and 1.30 Airmass (g). Using the table on the left you would see -3 of correction, on the table on the right you would see 0.168 which is the correction multiplier. So in this scenario I would expect half a degree of timing (-3 * 0.168 = 0.504) to be pulled due to ECT.
Been a while since I've been in HP Tuners so correct me if I'm wrong.
Example: You are at 212 deg ECT, 5120 RPM and 1.30 Airmass (g). Using the table on the left you would see -3 of correction, on the table on the right you would see 0.168 which is the correction multiplier. So in this scenario I would expect half a degree of timing (-3 * 0.168 = 0.504) to be pulled due to ECT.
Been a while since I've been in HP Tuners so correct me if I'm wrong.
We have known this for years however this "pulled timing when it gets hot" thing on a Z06 is beyond correcting the perception.
Some arguments you just cant win.
This table also combines with the MAT table and the MAT multiplier table to come up with the total reduction that accounts for heat. There is another multiplier table as well if I recall but it doesn't actually have much effect.
If you add all the tables and all the multipliers you find at 230* engine temp less than 1* is "pulled for the ECT adjustment above 5K rpm and depending on what year you may lose another 2-3 degrees once you go above 170ish* MAT.
What I found is unless you are making back to back runs, tracking the car or are on a dyno, even on a hot day you normally lose less than 3 degrees of timing total.
Not much more than most cars pull on a hot day.
But hey why ruin a good party.
07-02-2019, 01:44 PM
#38
You are correct sir.
We have known this for years however this "pulled timing when it gets hot" thing on a Z06 is beyond correcting the perception.
Some arguments you just cant win.
This table also combines with the MAT table and the MAT multiplier table to come up with the total reduction that accounts for heat. There is another multiplier table as well if I recall but it doesn't actually have much effect.
If you add all the tables and all the multipliers you find at 230* engine temp less than 1* is "pulled for the ECT adjustment above 5K rpm and depending on what year you may lose another 2-3 degrees once you go above 170ish* MAT.
What I found is unless you are making back to back runs, tracking the car or are on a dyno, even on a hot day you normally lose less than 3 degrees of timing total.
Not much more than most cars pull on a hot day.
But hey why ruin a good party.
We have known this for years however this "pulled timing when it gets hot" thing on a Z06 is beyond correcting the perception.
Some arguments you just cant win.
This table also combines with the MAT table and the MAT multiplier table to come up with the total reduction that accounts for heat. There is another multiplier table as well if I recall but it doesn't actually have much effect.
If you add all the tables and all the multipliers you find at 230* engine temp less than 1* is "pulled for the ECT adjustment above 5K rpm and depending on what year you may lose another 2-3 degrees once you go above 170ish* MAT.
What I found is unless you are making back to back runs, tracking the car or are on a dyno, even on a hot day you normally lose less than 3 degrees of timing total.
Not much more than most cars pull on a hot day.
But hey why ruin a good party.
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LagunaSecaZ06 (07-03-2019)
07-02-2019, 06:18 PM
#39
Who has found a t-stat (170 or 180 degree) that won’t leak or bind and is leads than $300???
Ive looked and everywhere I read seems to indicate that I should love with the higher stock stat in my blown LT1 ...
Ive looked and everywhere I read seems to indicate that I should love with the higher stock stat in my blown LT1 ...
07-02-2019, 06:18 PM
#40
Who has found a t-stat (170 or 180 degree) that won’t leak or bind and is less than $300???
Ive looked and everywhere I read seems to indicate that I should love with the higher stock stat in my blown LT1 ...
Ive looked and everywhere I read seems to indicate that I should love with the higher stock stat in my blown LT1 ...