Wickerbill long bolts
#1
Wickerbill long bolts
I ordered the EOS Wickerbill from RPI Designs. They included hardware but the bolts they provided were a) too short, and b) not the right head. (they're countersink hex bolts with cup washers instead of broadhead torx bolts like the ones they're replacing). I've contacted them, but in the event of "that's what we provide", has anyone found a replacement that isn't NINETEEN dollars per bolt?
#2
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Sep 2007
Location: Rockland County NY
Posts: 2,182
Received 470 Likes
on
145 Posts
2020 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2016 C5 of the Year Finalist
St. Jude Donor '12, '14
For what it's worth, I had the same problem you did. The images that RPI provides are of the OEM parts, not their cheap replacement parts. There is another thread on here somewhere that provides the dimensions of the correct metric bolt. I ended up buying these and then painting them with satin finish black epoxy paint. Doesn't exactly match the OEM bolts, but looks damn close.
https://belmetric.com/m6-allen-butto...ku=SBFA6X16BLK
https://belmetric.com/m6-allen-butto...ku=SBFA6X16BLK
The following users liked this post:
LiManZ06 (08-23-2022)
#3
For what it's worth, I had the same problem you did. The images that RPI provides are of the OEM parts, not their cheap replacement parts. There is another thread on here somewhere that provides the dimensions of the correct metric bolt. I ended up buying these and then painting them with satin finish black epoxy paint. Doesn't exactly match the OEM bolts, but looks damn close.
https://belmetric.com/m6-allen-butto...ku=SBFA6X16BLK
https://belmetric.com/m6-allen-butto...ku=SBFA6X16BLK
Appreciate the feedback
#4
Melting Slicks
I ordered the wickerbill from RPI and it came from EOS. I reached out to RPI and EOS. I told them about the screws being too short and the crappy washers. EOS overnighted me the correct screws. Look like the GM ones. No other issues.
The following users liked this post:
LiManZ06 (08-29-2022)
#6
yeah, the OEM bolts with the wide conical heads don't have washers under them (they do but it's just a fiber/paper "buffer" to keep the bolt head from scratching up the wickerbill).
#7
Racer
Member Since: Oct 2001
Location: Hendersonville tn
Posts: 432
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes
on
10 Posts
Here is what you are looking for.
https://www.probolt-usa.com/stainles...6x1-00mmx20mm/
or
https://www.probolt-usa.com/stainles...6x1-00mmx16mm/
https://www.probolt-usa.com/stainles...6x1-00mmx20mm/
or
https://www.probolt-usa.com/stainles...6x1-00mmx16mm/
#8
Here is what you are looking for.
https://www.probolt-usa.com/stainles...6x1-00mmx20mm/
or
https://www.probolt-usa.com/stainles...6x1-00mmx16mm/
https://www.probolt-usa.com/stainles...6x1-00mmx20mm/
or
https://www.probolt-usa.com/stainles...6x1-00mmx16mm/
THANK YOU!!!
So the 20mm is for “with Wickerbill” and the 16mm is without?
#9
Melting Slicks
Here is what you are looking for.
https://www.probolt-usa.com/stainles...6x1-00mmx20mm/
or
https://www.probolt-usa.com/stainles...6x1-00mmx16mm/
https://www.probolt-usa.com/stainles...6x1-00mmx20mm/
or
https://www.probolt-usa.com/stainles...6x1-00mmx16mm/
#10
I’ll let you know if they fit tomorrow
#11
Intermediate
I ordered the EOS Wickerbill from RPI Designs. They included hardware but the bolts they provided were a) too short, and b) not the right head. (they're countersink hex bolts with cup washers instead of broadhead torx bolts like the ones they're replacing). I've contacted them, but in the event of "that's what we provide", has anyone found a replacement that isn't NINETEEN dollars per bolt?
I also purchased the stage 3 carbon fiber aero kit from EOS. BIG MISTAKE.
#13
#14
Instructor
#15
Advanced
My apologies for the confusion.
I had the two packages sitting next to one another.
Here are the photos for the factory long bolts for the wicker bill. The head is a Torx-T20.
I had the two packages sitting next to one another.
Here are the photos for the factory long bolts for the wicker bill. The head is a Torx-T20.
#17
Intermediate
There was just a post about this on one of the Facebook Z06 groups.
(Guess I can't share the link here.)
C7 Z06 wicker bill bolts. M6 x 1.0 x 16mm GM part number 23155297
AC Delco touch up paint 19367787 $17.69
From left to right:
GM - aluminum T-20 bit needed
$24.65 / bolt
Pros:
OEM, aluminum light weight, pre painted carbon flash, shortest head height at 3mm.
Cons:
Mars the paint easily if not careful with screwdriver, looks small screwed into the wickerbill, less surface area contacting the wickerbill to secure it, risks deforming the wickerbill if you overtighten. Can easily strip the torx hole due to being aluminum material. Expensive as hell to replace.
Amazon -steel 4mm hex needed
$4.58 / bolt
Pros:
Affordable and relatively quick to obtain. Separate washer allows tightening without worrying of marring the wickerbill. Coating is glossy so at least it looks fine when installed unpainted.
Cons:
Not painted carbon flash. Small surface area contact with wickerbill, risks deforming the wickerbill if overtightened. 4.5mm head height.
Belmetric - steel 4mm hex needed
$1.19 / bolt
Pros:
Cheap. Flanged, built in washer.
Cons:
Not painted carbon flash. Black oxide finish so recommend painting. Small surface area contact with wickerbill, risks deforming the wickerbill if overtightened.
Pro-bolt -Titanium 4mm hex needed
$6.11 / bolt
Pros: Titanium, flanged dome, largest contact surface area, fits perfectly into groove for the wickerbill. Lightest material.
Cons:
Not painted carbon flash, but anodized black looks great too if left unpainted. 4mm head height.
I painted two of them to show you can get a finish comparable to stock. The pro-bolt installed looks like a piece that should have been oem. After installing the probolts, I opted to replace all my m6 bolts with probolt screws. The splitter winglet screws are the worst offenders as when you put on the stage 3 parts you can't fit anything into the forward space and end up tightening at an angle and messing up the torx hole eventually. With a 5mm hex, you can fit in a ball head hex bit or allen key and tighten it without worry of stripping the hole.
Note probolt has aluminum and stainless steel versions of their dome head bolts.
Splitter winglet screw is m6x1.0x30mm.
Short screw is m6x1.0x12mm
Long scew wicker is m6x1.0x16mm
Short screw stage 0 ie cover up holes m6x1.0x10mm
Facebook Post
Rovic Perdon
Figured I'd share my latest trip down the aero parts install rabbit hole. I've actually been conscious of gas price and swapped between my stage 3 and 2 setup when driving a long distance to get to a track.C7 Z06 wicker bill bolts. M6 x 1.0 x 16mm GM part number 23155297
AC Delco touch up paint 19367787 $17.69
From left to right:
GM - aluminum T-20 bit needed
$24.65 / bolt
Pros:
OEM, aluminum light weight, pre painted carbon flash, shortest head height at 3mm.
Cons:
Mars the paint easily if not careful with screwdriver, looks small screwed into the wickerbill, less surface area contacting the wickerbill to secure it, risks deforming the wickerbill if you overtighten. Can easily strip the torx hole due to being aluminum material. Expensive as hell to replace.
Amazon -steel 4mm hex needed
$4.58 / bolt
Pros:
Affordable and relatively quick to obtain. Separate washer allows tightening without worrying of marring the wickerbill. Coating is glossy so at least it looks fine when installed unpainted.
Cons:
Not painted carbon flash. Small surface area contact with wickerbill, risks deforming the wickerbill if overtightened. 4.5mm head height.
Belmetric - steel 4mm hex needed
$1.19 / bolt
Pros:
Cheap. Flanged, built in washer.
Cons:
Not painted carbon flash. Black oxide finish so recommend painting. Small surface area contact with wickerbill, risks deforming the wickerbill if overtightened.
Pro-bolt -Titanium 4mm hex needed
$6.11 / bolt
Pros: Titanium, flanged dome, largest contact surface area, fits perfectly into groove for the wickerbill. Lightest material.
Cons:
Not painted carbon flash, but anodized black looks great too if left unpainted. 4mm head height.
I painted two of them to show you can get a finish comparable to stock. The pro-bolt installed looks like a piece that should have been oem. After installing the probolts, I opted to replace all my m6 bolts with probolt screws. The splitter winglet screws are the worst offenders as when you put on the stage 3 parts you can't fit anything into the forward space and end up tightening at an angle and messing up the torx hole eventually. With a 5mm hex, you can fit in a ball head hex bit or allen key and tighten it without worry of stripping the hole.
Note probolt has aluminum and stainless steel versions of their dome head bolts.
Splitter winglet screw is m6x1.0x30mm.
Short screw is m6x1.0x12mm
Long scew wicker is m6x1.0x16mm
Short screw stage 0 ie cover up holes m6x1.0x10mm
#18
Here is what you are looking for.
https://www.probolt-usa.com/stainles...6x1-00mmx20mm/
or
https://www.probolt-usa.com/stainles...6x1-00mmx16mm/
https://www.probolt-usa.com/stainles...6x1-00mmx20mm/
or
https://www.probolt-usa.com/stainles...6x1-00mmx16mm/
16mm is TOO long to be used as the short bolt and will bottom out on the inside before fastening up the winglets. The correct length for the short bolt is 12mm.
20mm will work for the long bolts with a 1.0mm washer though on tightening, I was worried about what I felt like it was bottoming out just as it was tightening up but it was hard to differentiate between the rubber compressing or just starting to bottom out. To be safe, the stock long wickerbill bolts are 16mm so just go with that size.