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So I'm thinking about what I want to do and I have a few goals:
1)800-850 whp max
2) No loud/lumpy cam (if I can do a cam that is just for fuel needs and not lumpy thats fine). Been there/done that for the last 15 years with my previous cars. I like smooth when I'm driving normally
3) No meth/e85
I'm assuming that a 2650 would be at the center of this, but with the list above is that HP# realistic? Don't need max effort and would like to maintain as much "stock feel" as I can
Since you are wanting a certain amount of HP, and drivability is a big concern for you, you might want to consider using nitrous. You have full stock driving and just flip on the spray when you are wanting to throw down a little bit. I've been using nitrous for over 40 years and I've never had anything bad happen by using it. You just have to be careful with it and not get too greedy with the jetting.
Since you are wanting a certain amount of HP, and drivability is a big concern for you, you might want to consider using nitrous. You have full stock driving and just flip on the spray when you are wanting to throw down a little bit. I've been using nitrous for over 40 years and I've never had anything bad happen by using it. You just have to be careful with it and not get too greedy with the jetting.
personally not a fan of it. Not looking to use anything that needs a refill other than 93 gas.
max effort ported blower,103 t/b, 5" intake, 38% cam lobe, full dod delete, full vvt delete, aux low side full, too high psi port injection with 1050-1300 cc injectorsand computer, upper pulley and possibly a bigger lower pulley, headers and cat delete and/ or downpipes should get you close to were you want to be. the tuner will be the most critical part of the build. pother issue may be the fuel itself. on ethanol even a 50% mix it should be no issue. on simple pump 93 knock may come into play. I have 100 oct close to me but the cost is huge 9.00$ a gal) but ethanol is plentiful. if you have it close to you it should be a consideration. with port injection the ability to run full e85 is simple and the cost is very pleasing
You'll need a strong fuel system to support your desires. Pick your route of DI or port injection. You don't need a big cam, people are making your desired power levels with never opening the motor. The fuel lobe is what's ideal with an aftermarket cam and of course more ideal specs for your blower application.
Fuel
Headers/Intake/Exhaust2650
You'll need a strong fuel system to support your desires. Pick your route of DI or port injection. You don't need a big cam, people are making your desired power levels with never opening the motor. The fuel lobe is what's ideal with an aftermarket cam and of course more ideal specs for your blower application.
Fuel
Headers/Intake/Exhaust2650
Call it a day...
advantage of using one method over the other (port vs DI)?
advantage of using one method over the other (port vs DI)?
Port has a much higher ability to grow but with that comes additional controls to be aware of (8 injectors, piggyback fuel controller etc.)
DI route will get you to where you want to be by swapping your existing fuel pumps, injectors and if needed a belt driven high side pump (xdi) . Cost are about the same +/- maybe $1,500 or so most people usually go port to be done with the fuel issue.
I say cost are close, I haven't looked at cost for either in a year plus now, given the state of the world costs could be goofy, gotta do your homework on that. 😆
advantage of using one method over the other (port vs DI)?
Originally Posted by BooSSted
DI route will get you to where you want to be by swapping your existing fuel pumps, injectors and if needed a belt driven high side pump (xdi) . Cost are about the same +/- maybe $1,500 or so most people usually go port to be done with the fuel issue. 😆
dfi costs can see close to 7-8k4 in costs. too high psi port injection is less than 4k$
dfi costs can see close to 7-8k4 in costs. too high psi port injection is less than 4k$
For what exactly? An entire kit? Or the fuel controller / harnesss. Because after you add rails, injectors and install of harness again the price is a wash.
For what exactly? An entire kit? Or the fuel controller / harnesss. Because after you add rails, injectors and install of harness again the price is a wash.
injectors oil your choice. say id 1050 injectors which are some of the best e85 injectors on the market 1300$
total is approx 3400$ for a complete kit plus some miscellaneous fittings and hoses . I do know there may be some hood clearance issues on the c7 the zl1 is no issues but the owner is working on a fix I think a lower profile port plate. the videos of the controller is very simple. 3 pins removed from the ecu 3 pins installed from the reflex then the oem pins installed into the reflex. 100% reversible to oem zero cutting of wires. same for the man extension. im not counting any labor as I do all my own work short of tuning.
injectors oil your choice. say id 1050 injectors which are some of the best e85 injectors on the market 1300$
total is approx 3400$ for a complete kit plus some miscellaneous fittings and hoses . I do know there may be some hood clearance issues on the c7 the zl1 is no issues but the owner is working on a fix I think a lower profile port plate. the videos of the controller is very simple. 3 pins removed from the ecu 3 pins installed from the reflex then the oem pins installed into the reflex. 100% reversible to oem zero cutting of wires. same for the man extension. im not counting any labor as I do all my own work short of tuning.
They've come a long way fast with fueling solutions. I say fast, really the last 18 months 😆. So many great options for the CTSV and ZL1 crew. Us Vette owners are limited on some blower options and great items like this if it indeed is a clearance issue. Beyond that, that price point is fantastic.
Potential discussion points on that TOO HIGH PSI kit, I asked a buddy of mine with a stout ZL1 build why he didn't opt into this option. He summarized a few limitations with the kit, ideally some of the shops chime in as they're not fans of either the injector plate and the limited ability to wire in widebands sensors with the kit.
So I'm thinking about what I want to do and I have a few goals:
1)800-850 whp max
2) No loud/lumpy cam (if I can do a cam that is just for fuel needs and not lumpy thats fine). Been there/done that for the last 15 years with my previous cars. I like smooth when I'm driving normally
3) No meth/e85
I'm assuming that a 2650 would be at the center of this, but with the list above is that HP# realistic? Don't need max effort and would like to maintain as much "stock feel" as I can
You said feel like stock as much as possible so read all of this. I did a build with mti in Houston. It made exactly 900whp with the stock ported blower. Price was on point, service is unmatched. They answer the phone and reply to every email fast. When my car was done i took it for a spin and this is where I lose you on the “drive like stock” the c7z drives horrible stock. The shifts are weird and it always feels like when you roll into the throttle that it doesn’t down shift when you want it to. This car drove the way you dream a car built or not should drive. You give it a little gas it down shift instantly and goes. You give it a little more and it drops another gear seamlessly. I ran a 9.6 with only a 1.5 60 foot, on a horrible da day, and letting off a little early as the car was shacking due to running run flats in front with drag radials in the rear. The custom spec cam has the perfect amount of chop nothing crazy, and nothing that is gonna shake the car. I wanted a car that would run mid to low 8’s eventually and I wanted it to be this car. But that isn’t going to happen anymore. Only because this is now the best feeling car I have ever driven. It’s the definition of a street car. It’s fast, drives way better then stock, and has instant power.
One thing with the toohighpsi kit is yiur gijng to need a fuel pump. A fore triple is 2700. I do agree you’re going to need fueling and you’re going to be all in if 6-8k no matter what route you go. Anything above 700-750rwhp gets really expensive really quick. Im doing 1000rwhp build and totaled up parts and it’s about 26k including the 2650. My ZL1 made 855 but used dual nozzle meth and e50 to get there on stock injectors and hpfp along with DSX aux pump etc. made 922 with pulley change and more meth.
You said feel like stock as much as possible so read all of this. I did a build with mti in Houston. It made exactly 900whp with the stock ported blower. Price was on point, service is unmatched. They answer the phone and reply to every email fast. When my car was done i took it for a spin and this is where I lose you on the “drive like stock” the c7z drives horrible stock. The shifts are weird and it always feels like when you roll into the throttle that it doesn’t down shift when you want it to. This car drove the way you dream a car built or not should drive. You give it a little gas it down shift instantly and goes. You give it a little more and it drops another gear seamlessly. I ran a 9.6 with only a 1.5 60 foot, on a horrible da day, and letting off a little early as the car was shacking due to running run flats in front with drag radials in the rear. The custom spec cam has the perfect amount of chop nothing crazy, and nothing that is gonna shake the car. I wanted a car that would run mid to low 8’s eventually and I wanted it to be this car. But that isn’t going to happen anymore. Only because this is now the best feeling car I have ever driven. It’s the definition of a street car. It’s fast, drives way better then stock, and has instant power.
Damn, I got a quote from another very well known shop and was told for around $17k I'd get ~650 whp on a ported stock blower build (no cam/head work). I assume your build handled cooling issues? I have a 15 so they added upgraded cooling bricks to the price.
If I do start with a 2650 can I safely set it for lower boost (maybe get to 650 whp) on the stock fuel system and upgrade the boost as I eventually do a fuel upgrade/headers/MAYBE.....a mild cam for the fuel lobe?
Damn, I got a quote from another very well known shop and was told for around $17k I'd get ~650 whp on a ported stock blower build (no cam/head work). I assume your build handled cooling issues? I have a 15 so they added upgraded cooling bricks to the price.
Seems high. My FBO build mentioned above was less than $10k, including an extra tune for 100 and sending the TCM out to be unlocked and tuned.
One thing with the toohighpsi kit is yiur gijng to need a fuel pump. A fore triple is 2700. I do agree you’re going to need fueling and you’re going to be all in if 6-8k no matter what route you go. Anything above 700-750rwhp gets really expensive really quick. Im doing 1000rwhp build and totaled up parts and it’s about 26k including the 2650. My ZL1 made 855 but used dual nozzle meth and e50 to get there on stock injectors and hpfp along with DSX aux pump etc. made 922 with pulley change and more meth.
at 800 wheel a fore triple is overkill. a simple aux in line pump will do enough to handle the port kit with stock fueling