Priming Engine?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 437
Likes: 16
From: Clearfield PA
Priming Engine?
I did a quick search but found nothing conclusive. 17 Z06 M7. Can you simply push the clutch pedal down and also push the gas pedal down at the same time and “hold them,” then hold down the push button start for however long you want (15-20 seconds) to prime the engine and build oil pressure (dry sump)? (Think of car sitting for 5-6 months and the first fire for the new year….). Thank you guys!
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 234
Likes: 191
From: Hampton Roads, VA
I live in a "semi-warm" climate, so I've never let my Z sit for five or six months.
But after three months, with a strong battery that remained on a tender during the coldest of the winter, mine has always cranked right up immediately, without needing to do the process you describe.
But after three months, with a strong battery that remained on a tender during the coldest of the winter, mine has always cranked right up immediately, without needing to do the process you describe.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 1,987
Likes: 903
From: near philly
I did a quick search but found nothing conclusive. 17 Z06 M7. Can you simply push the clutch pedal down and also push the gas pedal down at the same time and “hold them,” then hold down the push button start for however long you want (15-20 seconds) to prime the engine and build oil pressure (dry sump)? (Think of car sitting for 5-6 months and the first fire for the new year….). Thank you guys!
are you thinking that the slower crank speed is beneficial despite it taking significantly longer to build that pressure?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 799
Likes: 326
I am at a loss with pushbutton starts. I do miss having keys, where you could easily prime the fuel pump without cranking. In fact, I can't think of anything I like about pushbutton start!?! I rented a car last year and left it at the airport when I got on a flight...and remembered I had the FOB in my pocket! That would not happen with a key. More than once we have swapped drivers and forgot to swap the FOB from pocket to pocket...again...never happen with a key. If you are thinking "old fart getting senile", well, my teenage kids have done much...much worse with keyless FOBs, LOL.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 437
Likes: 16
From: Clearfield PA
What are you seeing as the benefit of cranking an engine to build oil pressure with all the parts moving as they would when running rather than starting the engine?
are you thinking that the slower crank speed is beneficial despite it taking significantly longer to build that pressure?
are you thinking that the slower crank speed is beneficial despite it taking significantly longer to build that pressure?
Well, in typical new engine builds, I (and many others I’ve seen) prime the engine in the distributor port with a drill/tool until I see oil at the rockers (I.E. BBC builds). Hence no dry start. I see your thinking of longer periods of time to build oil pressure, but it’s at maybe 1-300 rpm. Not the 900-1200 rpm of a cold start where the car runs rich to build heat faster. Even at 1000 rpm, it takes 15-30 seconds to get oil to the pushrod tips. I figure after such a long time of sitting it can’t hurt to get oil everywhere before a full blown high idle rpm cold start. This is what I’m referring to. I keep mine on a ctek tender and there’s no problem getting it to start at all, but that’s not what I’m asking or concerned about. It’s limiting the dry start after a long sitting period where everything is sitting in the dry sump and the oil tank. Thanks guys
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 799
Likes: 326
A new engine that is not run in is prone to bearing scuffing, which is not an issue in a run-in engine. Even then, if proper assembly lube was used during the build this should not be a problem. Then, with our dry sump system, the oil is fed from above the pump with a positive head pressure from the tank, so gallery pressure builds faster than a wet sump, where the oil drains into the sump and must be sucked back through the pump every start. The rocker tips are not an issue...have you heard of any pushrod failures in C7's?
In other words, just start it.
In other words, just start it.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 437
Likes: 16
From: Clearfield PA
You make very good points. The dry sump is a different system altogether than wet and better at oil delivery by far.
I guess my first original, and now last question is, the act of pushing both clutch pedal and gas is like a flood clear method and will crank the car without it starting correct? I’m not saying I’m going to do this, I just want to know if it can be done and that’s what will happen (safely). Thank you
I guess my first original, and now last question is, the act of pushing both clutch pedal and gas is like a flood clear method and will crank the car without it starting correct? I’m not saying I’m going to do this, I just want to know if it can be done and that’s what will happen (safely). Thank you
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